I installed my Blues into my amps. Initially it was similar in effect of using the Blacks after they were broken in times 25%+. I liked the flow of the music better with the Blacks for the first 45 minutes. Then I listened for another 3 hours. The Blues became so much better than the Blacks. It wasn't just the increase in resolution, spaciousness, openness, it became like the Blacks, more intimate sounding. The tone of instruments are now fuller than the Blacks. This change was similar to my change from my IC cables which were the same except for the reduction in capacitance by 50% by adding a teflon sleeve over the positive wiring. See http://www.groverhuffman.com/home for details (his cable already incorporates a tri-metal powder based shield with a copper mesh outer shield). It was a major improvement resulting in extended frequency definition, spaciousness and dynamics. The result of using the Blues is so much more information and enjoyable listening. Not just for me but for my wife and visitors who can sit five feet from the sweet spot on either side and enjoy nearly the same sonic features as the sweet spot. (My wife had me get rid of my large electrostats 18 years ago after we married due to their limited dynamics, bass and listening space-center only). I'm so glad that SR listened to my suggestion (if they did) that audiophiles would pay extra for broken-in fuses rather than burn up 72 hours of tubes to break them in. That the price is only $20 more than the Blacks is greatly appreciated. |
I found that after a 1 or 2 hours, they were eminently listenable and certainly relaxed sounding. They're a great addition to my primary sound system. I rarely use my secondary system and still haven't broken in the amp's Black fuse after 25 hours use. I may purchase a Blue fuse just so I don't have to wait any longer. |
That Bells Are Ringing CD is equivalent to a hot stamper LP. Robert introduced me to that CD over 15 years ago. It's one of many great Contemporary CDs. The best ones were remastered by Joe Tarantino, the least successful can be attributed to Phil de Lancie, but the latter has done some fine work as well. The worst transfers were the early mono set of the Firehouse Five and two early mono Kid Ory. The LPs smoke those CD transfers. Almost all the Barney Kessel CDs are fantastic, especially with Previn and Manne. |
Same direction for me as well.
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Just like Frank's sound, my highs improved. Better definition and sweeter sounding at the same time. |
I have all my source and pre-amp components plugged into a Bryston Bit 20 isolation transformer and my amps plugged directly into the same SR Black duplex. Only the amps require fuses. Plugging the amps into the Bryston ruins the sound by depressing the power available (30% decrease in voltage as read by my bias meters) squashing dynamics.and clarity. |
The black fuse sounded dreadful between 15 and 60 hours breaking in. I had to leave my amps on continuously to arrive at 72 hour break in where they sounded great. The blue fuse sounds wonderful now with nearly 20 hours on them. 200 to 300 hours will take several months as I do not intend to leave my big power amps on continuously for weeks. It's good to know that it will get even better in time. My hat's off to SR for making the fuse sound great as soon as it's used at only $20 more.
Ignore the previous commentator. He's got a problem and doesn't belong on this site-nothing positive comes out of his poison pen. A nihilist. |
That's what I did testing half a dozen brands of vibration devices in 2015. I chose Stillpoints for my tube gear of various types Ultra and SS. The absolute worst was the Magico Q-Pods which had blacker backgrounds as claimed but killed the pace of the music most definitely as well as sounding dark and bloated. Robert and I tried it under all source equipment phono pre-amp, CD player and both pre-amp and amps. Nada, just bad! Some of the other vibration devices were nearly as good or similarly good as Stillpoints, but I liked the greater clarity and openness of them over the slight loss of tonal richness. Then I changed the fuses from stock Littlefuses to Black fuses bring back the tonal richness.
So, when I heard the blue fuse, I immediately liked the sound. Robert heard them in Frank's system and immediately liked the sound. So, three unbiased opinions. And my very critical wife. The blue fuse is great in our tube based systems based on what our ears tell us. |
Again, I want to reiterate that the Blue fuse sounds excellent without being broken in, better than black fuses with 300+ hours. At 2.5 hours to date, they sounded 90% of what they can be after 25 more hours. I detect fuller tonal palette, more dynamics, more solid highs and lows-just a little better all around. There's just a little more musical involvement as they break-in. I am extremely happy with the new blue fuses, particularly because they sound great on initial insertion. I would not cook my tube equipment for 125 hours for an Audio Magic fuse even if it is better, especially if the sound is degraded as was the black fuse from 10 to 65 hours of initial use. |
My amp designer/cable manufacturer Grover Huffman heard my amps with the three fuses and was enthused with the blue fuse by far. However, he has the room in his (and my) amps to install circuit breakers and remove the fuse entirely (he had littlefuses installed previously). On Friday, he said he had done so and listened into the night at the astonishingly more open, dynamic and tonally richer sound from his amps. I haven't heard them yet but based on this forum's anecdotes, a circuit breaker should be better sounding than any fuse. He now enjoys the benefits. Eventually, I will compare amps with and without a fuse/circuit breaker and decide which is better (a tie would be nice). |
Dear Ozzy, Grover Huffman heard what I hear in my system after 30 hours of blue fuse break-in. His circuit breakers are not current models but from the 70s, price unknown. We will not hot wire our amps as the transformers are Altecs and irreplaceable. You may have misundestood, we will compare the fuse to the circuit breaker, not without either which is unsafe to do.
I thought the SR fuses use graphene nanotech which may or may not be the reason they sound so good. These fuses are more complex construction and are not the run the mill fuses. |
Send him into another dimension, away from this forum. |
We know what a wolf_garcia is. He is a TROLL (I am assuming he is not a she). "A troll is a person who sows discord on the Internet by starting quarrels or upsetting people, by posting inflammatory, [1] extraneous, or off-topic messages in an online community (such as a newsgroup, forum, chat room, or blog) with the intent of provoking readers into an emotional response [2] or of otherwise disrupting normal, on-topic discussion, [3] often for the troll's amusement." |
And I record and master live symphony orchestras, choral and chamber ensembles in Los Angeles-my friends are world reknown mastering engineers Kevin Gray, Steve Hoffman and Robert Pincus. My hearing is also perfect for someone my age. Your credentials mean nothing to me. You're a troll, you're a troll, you're a troll. |
There’s a troll under the name of mrkaic at https://www.stereophile.com/content/art%E2%80%99s-first-report-caf who claims that a Benchmark amp tests better than a VAC 450IQ amp at 2% of the latter’s price so it must sound better because it’s more accurate. Same type of banter between those who love music and sound and this character who says it’s all a scientific and electrical engineering matter to decide what is better. I’ve heard both and there is NO contest. The benchmark is okay for the price but the VAC wipes it out in every musically important manner. Hence, my friend who designs equipment and sells wire professionally, changed his amps from fused to unfused circuit breakers and decided it sounds most like the Blue SR fuse in the same amps I own and superior to a cheap Littlefuse or Buss he was used to. |
Fleschler is Yiddish. It’s meaning is bottle maker. Maybe there is a connection to my enjoyment of vacuum tube equipment. I drop names because I can. I have 2 BAs from UCLA. a JD and an MPA with assorted other business credentials. My interest in music began at the age of 2 prior to speaking full sentences. By 13, I began my quest for better sound in acquiring my first mid fi tube equipment. I’m sure I out credential the troll Wolf in every way and some posters on this forum know me as a person of integrity |
SRs biggest bang for the buck are his blue fuses and black duplex outlets. They are equivalent to upgrading either the speakers or amps or both in my system. My audio system costs 8% of the finest system I've heard, the Von Schweikert $290K speakers w/$500K of VAC gear, basically a $1 million system yet yields about 50% of the sound-extremely enjoyable and missing some of the dynamics, 3D soundstage and openness of that system. The SR, Stillpoints and to a much lesser extent but cheap, Herbies products really are cost efficient in obtaining superior audio sound. Choosing the right tubes (can be expensive) and the Shakti Hallographs are more expensive tweaks but equally important as the cheaper tweaks. I thank Ted Denny for making the blue fuse sound great immediately so that I can enjoy my music without burning expensive tubes without benefit. |
There is a free on-line test for high frequency hearing.
http://www.noiseaddicts.com/2009/03/can-you-hear-this-hearing-test/This test requires the speakers being capable of reproducing high frequencies. My Audio Engine speakers do that (my wife's computer's generic speakers for $20 stop between 12 and 15Khz). My hearing test resulted in a max frequency of 17Khz. When I was a child with asthma, I could hear between 20 and 30Khz. Children with bronchial diseases for some reason can hear high frequencies and transformer humming can be an annoyance.
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geoffkait- I fully agree.with your comments.
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Same here, both Frank and I have our mutually unapologetically critical friend Robert to thank for his help. He has pointed out (my wife also agreeing) with every tweak and change I have made to my system whether it's better or worse or has no effect. He enthusiastically endorses the Hallographs (he has a pair, Frank and I have two pair) and the SR blue fuses. He says whatever works, do it and get rid of anything that makes our systems sound worse (despite high praise in the trade journals such as the Magico Qpods-yuk)!.
I admit I do not have state of the art speakers. They are multi-driver big box type which do not image well by themselves. I have heard more modern speakers which are designed for imaging, especially two way monitors, speakers such as Audio Physic, Focals... The Hallographs allow pinpoint imaging with precise changes in angling the top wood array. 1/8" on my left array makes a significant difference in imaging (for some reason the right one can be 1/2" off and still stabilize the image whereas the pair I use at the mid-room reflection points can be adjusted to up to 1" before they radically alter the imaging). After using Hallographs, I have no need for side and front room audio baffles to absorb and reflect sound (before Hallographs, the room could have used a dozen baffles). They just focus the sound throughout the room.
Together. the SR blue fuses and Hallographs create a wide sweet spot and an open, soundstage extending to about a 10' seating area. Great for guests.
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I just found the EAR Classic CD player review and comments on Stereophile. What do you know, old troll Georgehifi was at it there, stating that the CD layer in an SACD is inferior to a purely CD layer CD. Plus other snide comments resulted in an avalanche of negative comments about a superb sounding player whose first audition was of a defective unit played incorrectly (full open volume pot rather than at 2 o'clock). The subsequent review of a correctly functioning player resulted in a rave review (with the reviewer vague as to what he meant as playing at a volume lower). No new comments after that very positive review.
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" Faulty equipment sent to Stereophile for test???????Submitted by georgehifi on February 4, 2017 - 2:44pmThis does not sit well for me, as a good Stereophile review is the No 1 review a manufacturer can get to open the retail flood gates. Hell I would have been devastated (and broke) if Sam Tellig didn't give my product a great review, I hung on every word of the review more so than the birth of my son.
And before anyone says I gave him a freebee, NO! he had to buy one from me before he even did the review. To send to Stereophile some thing that has been around the world without double /tripple checking it first and making sure it's even better than a retail one, means the manufacturer doesn't give a s**t about how the review turns out, to which I highly doubt. Like I said it doesn't sit well for me, as I've seen so many times with a bad reviews, the manufacturers comments saying it was faulty we'll send another one. REALLY!!!! Cheers George" Note his comments concerning approval by Sam Tellig or economic loss. What product did he sell to Tellig? As good as an SR Blue fuse, Hallograph or maybe a EAR Classic CD player? |
I have so much equipment that I have two stands, both heavy steel with rubber dots holding either 1.25" HDF or 1" glass panels, with top plates of 1" solid granite for the turntable and pre-amp. I use a townsend sink and HDF under my VPI TNT VI which eliminated vibration problems. Under the other equipment, I tried at least a dozen footers, preferring Stillpoints. Most Stillpoints are Ultra-minis with two sets of SSs under the pre-amp/phono and Bryston 20A power transformer. I tried SSs on all equipment but the ultra-minis sounded better on the EAR Acute, Masterlink, two big tube amps, Nakamichi 7A. I also have roller balls with 25 hardness under my VPI speed controller and a Marantz 7T pre-amp. I also use the ultra-minis on my TV cable box, Blue-ray player and pre-amp in the other system. It is not the ideal system for isolation but as Frank says, it took time to get it right. If I started over, I would buy a pair of higher end rack system |
Just make sure that the black fuses you are using are in the correct direction or they will sound off, in this case maybe less relaxed and analytical. The black fuses took 72 hours to break-in for me but the blue sounded just as you said, great initially and gets even better after 20 to 30 hours. Good listening to you! |
I recently purchased the CD of Milt Jackson with the Clayton-Hamilton orchestra called Explosive. This is a relatively recent recording and will definitely test an audio system. It’s dynamic and spacious on a high resolution system, not so good where the system has compression problems (such as the samples through computer speakers).. Similar to Little Band, Big Jazz is a test for an audio system. Here’s the link: https://www.amazon.com/Explosive-Milt-Jackson/dp/B00000I3ZQ/ref=tmm_acd_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&... |
Some retailers of high end gear I’ve spoken with in the past two weeks told me when I asked, about use of upgraded fuses in their equipment. One VAC dealer said he used HiFi Tuning but upgraded to Furutech in his VAC amps but sells them with the original manufacturers ceramic basic fuse. They recommended them as they often do NOS tubes after purchase. I’ve had Herbies tube dampeners for over 15 years. When I used an EAR 864 pre-amp, they were absolutely essential in the phono stage to get the most out of the 12AX7s, stock or NOS. Even the stock tubes sounded acceptable where non-dampened tubes sounded unacceptable to hear. I recently made a second, wildly effective upgrade in my system equivalent to going from stock to Blue SR fuses. Grover Huffman RCA interconnects have changed from really good to outstandingly good. The combo is spectacular. My system has increased resolution, maintaining the same tonal balance, punchier, tighter (you can feel it) deep bass, gorgeous highs, greater dynamic swings and so much more open. I always thought the Ames brothers couldn’t be separated in Blend and the Beat RCA Living Stereo, and some of their other recordings. Now each of them has their own stage in the studio. Orchestral strings now wrap around the speakers as they do in life in well recorded music. The music is a more forward sounding and the pace of the music draws you into it. It’s difficult to ignore the music and do something else while its playing. Mr. Huffman’s wiring is a labor of love, hand built and low cost, relatively speaking compared to the blue fuse. It takes him two hours to make an IC pair at $400/1 meter. So, if you really want to double you pleasure of the SR Blue fuse, try a pair of his cables between your pre-amp and amp. http://www.groverhuffman.com/empress-1 Disclaimer, I am a friend of his but I have to pay for all the cables he makes, A/C, speaker wire and ICs. Sorry if I got off track here, but the combo is twice as good as just adding the SR blue fuse. Money back guarantee as the fuse, although warning, it takes 24 hours minimum break-in time before you can hear the bass or the benefits. Just hook them up to a tuner and let it play (without sound, just hooked up and on) for a day. I leave it in for three days.to make sure they are ready for play. |
I went from a 5 amp to an 8 amp fuse due to the size of my amp's storage capacitors. They are huge at 7" X 3" pairs per monoblock. The reason given by SR is that large storage caps cause a greater surge to fill upon startup compared to the typical multi-small storage caps used in most modern equipment. My dyna 70 amp only required a step up from a 3 amp to a 4 amp fuse (although it's storage cap was replaced with one running the entire diagonal length on the bottom). I remember that for my speakers in my video room, only the same small value fast blow fuses were recommended by SR. I'm planning on replacing the video speakers so I didn't bother buying new fuses for them. |
Fact-5 amp rated black SR fuses in my large mono tube amps blew on turn-on, replaced with 6 amp fuses. which also blew immediately. Amps are rated at 5 amps. Replaced with SR recommended 8 amp fuses. Works fine for about 500 hours, replaced with blue SR fuses which are now working about 50 hours without incident. That’s the proof that fuses do blow when one’s equipment is unusual in design with huge turn-on capacitor demands, beyond typical modern equipment. |
Uberwaltz-SR was very accommodating and gave me 100% replacements at no additional costs in just days. They couldn't have been nicer to me. So when I upgraded to blue SR from black SR fuses of the same values, I knew the blue SR fuses wouldn't blow.
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I'm Frank's friend. Last week, Frank applied Total Contact to only my fuses and interconnects last weekend. There was an immediate improvement in the sound of both my audio systems. It was comparable to the difference in a Littlefuse to the Blue fuse change. The bass and highs were extended and fortified. The soundstage widened somewhat and the height improved more than the width. Transients improved with quicker, more explosive. There is more detail and air around instruments and voices. However, the tonal quality does not change at the expense of the openess or quickness.
This is the first time my big system exhibited that jump factor where a bass drum is both felt and heard (well, more than just moderate sound level). My Signature IIIs always had punchier bass with 3-10" woofers than my Focuses which have 3-12" woofers. Not any more. The Focuses have tighter, punchier (and deeper) bass than the Signature IIIs now. I will be purchasing the Total Contact as soon as it's available. I will then apply it to all my A/C and speaker wire contacts which rarely get unplugged. I only hesitate putting on tube pins. Another good thing is that if one doesn't like the sound, it's easily and cleanly removable.
There's so much in the tube, I'll be applying it to my video systems A/Cs and ICs and speakers. |
Thank you tommylion. It was Wolf's personal insults that resulted in the moderator's actions.
uberwaltz you are probably correct; however, I occasionally found similar troll activities on major magazine forums and sometimes the same people as found in Audiogon's forums. |
The moderator has allowed me to forward inappropriate, nasty or stupid posts. The moderator has eliminated some of the SR blue fuse posts and more of the Total Contact posts. This forum has become friendlier since then. |
No, the SR Blue only got better but remained superior to the Black after 3 days as well. Could be something else in your room. I'll tell you that I often had bad sound days (not nights) for no reason. I recently purchased the SR Atmosphere XL4 which negates all types of negative electrical waves in the room and stimulates the SR HFTs I also recently installed. During the last week of use at all times of the day, no more bad sounding days. I'll see if that holds true when the A/C is running in the summer but I suspect I've found a cure for inconsistent sound days. |
I want to chime in that SR HFTs and Atmospheres require fine tuning to work in some rooms. My room thoroughly dislikes the Atmosphere anywhere between my speakers/in front of the listening area. It congeals the center stage into a slim line, removes the air and depth of a recording. I moved it to the back of the room and it works fine there while restoring the great sound I had previously but a little closed in still..
Next, I then wanted more height/openess in the sound so I experimented placing the HFT on the central front wall up higher, an inch at a time. I ended up 8 inches higher, at the top of my speaker basically. That also thinned out the bass/lower mids. I then lowered the four speaker side panel HFTs exactly one ince which is recommended to increase warmth and bass. Voila! That was one I was looking for, a perfect balance. I tested out everything from electronic rock (Yello) to classical chamber music, solo instruments, mono recordings, to 50’s jazz to opera to bid band with vocalists. Everything sounded tonally rich, open, widespread as the recording would permit. I like to just set things up and not futz with them (most of my equipment is 12 years old or older). In this case, SR requires you to adjust room treatments.
Total Contact together with SR Black Box is a great match. My wife heard the combo and said it brings the music to life, similar to the $1.5 million Von Schweikert/VAC/Kronos system featured at every show that she would like to have (I can’t afford it and it’s too big even for my garage size room).
P.S. I don’t take sides in the which is better, CDs or LPs debate. They both can sound great or mediocre, depending on the recording and mastering. I do have audiophile quality equipment for both, but it is certainly easier to listen to and store a CD, with boxed sets selling dirt cheap on Amazon. I have 78s and LPs which have zero chance of ever being reissued in any format so I’m not giving up those ever. |
Again, I will post that the most conservative, non-tweaking audio engineer/equipment manufacturer who heard the difference between "new" Littlefuses and my SR Blue fuses, immediately went home and installed circuit breakers where his fuses were located at (we have the same amps). He has no tweaks in his audio system which sounds superb. He hates any liquid treatment on contacts including TC although he will never try it. I thought the circuit breakers made a tremendous difference from the Littlefuses he previously had installed.
So, if the difference between fuse quality and circuit breakers were not so obvious, an expert in audio engineering would not have changed his equipment. But he heard it and he did it. |
Well, I've caught up on several days banter. Again, I personally tested a new Littlefuse and Buss fuse a year ago, in both directions as well. My conclusion was there was NO difference than with the same fuses from 10 years ago. However, installing SR fuses made a very significant and beneficial improvement WHEREBY, the manufacturer of my amps chose to upgrade his amps with circuit breakers since he is adverse to spending $149 on per fuse.
As to Wolf_Garcia, I stopped reporting him when he stopped attacking me personally. I am very well educated (2 BAs, JD, MPA, OREA licensed commercial appraiser), worked in construction building homes and apartments, recording and mastering engineer for projects for UCLA, USC, LAJS, AJU, VBS, TRZ, Viklarbo Ensemble as well as professional musicians. When I pay my money for an tweak, it better work or back it goes. I tried 8 different brands of vibration control devices prior to sticking with Stillpoints.
The point is that an attack on me personally is personal and I hate personal attacks. A difference of opinion is fine, as my manufacturing engineer friend and I have many differences of opinion. I will report only those attacks which I find to be personal.
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Geoffkait. I immediately noticed a weird out of phase sound from the first SR black fuses in my amps. Upon reversing their direction, the focus returned between the speakers. Same thing with the blue fuse in both my audio systems. I could tell immediately whether the fuses were in phase or out of phase. Hope that helps
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I have not tried many fuses. Maybe some of the other fuse makers make great fuses too. From my experience, buss and littlefuses are unacceptable for audio applications. SR fuses cost a lot but the payoff is worth it to me |
You are 100% mistaken in misrepresenting what I stated concerning alternative fuses. Junky sounding fuses sound junky. They were not designed for audio applications in mind. Maybe the $4 gold or $10 ceramic fuses are superior for audio applications. I haven't tried them. However, for my money, I'm sticking with SR blue fuses. You don't have to like what I like. You cannot say without hearing my audio systems whether they do what I say or not.
I wasn't the only one in the room when I tested directionality of SR Blue fuses. The audio engineer who manufactured the amps heard it and decided there was a notable difference. Maybe Bussman and Littlefuses don't sound directional (I only tried directionality on older, used ones) in my equipment but they certainly do for SR black and blue fuses. If you want to hear it, come over to my home and listen for yourself.
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I'll plug my audio engineer manufacturer again. His retail site is
http://www.groverhuffman.com/home His cable design is patented and it is his 100% full-time profession to design and manufacture SOTA cabling. So George, you are going to personally attack me as did Wolf_Garcia. Saying I'm a shill or am I just gullible (which is it)? I can see that you are now an unwanted commodity on this forum. Some of your technical posts have been interesting but now you are down and dirty just like Wolf. |
Grover has a ream of testimonials which include Steve Hoffman's using his cables in one of his mastering rooms and some of Warner Bros. Records executives use a full supply of his cables for their home use. What testimonials and major recordings executives use your equipment? |
Grover has designed amps, pre-amps, phono stages all using voltage regulation rather than triode or ultralinear transformer outputs. Not unique but rare. Also all manner of electronics including tubed phono step ups, high end power junction boxes, modifications to existing tube gear. |
Georgelofi has infiltrated other forums I'm on such as
We Need A Separate Forum for Fuses and
I'm not dreaming - these are great CD copies, where he keeps repeating the same mantra with the same jpg.
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Grover Huffman knows more about electronics in his 68 years than an idiot named George. He has a patent on his cable, do you? He's so intelligent, he wrote the patent himself, without an attorney and is was granted after only minor revision from the patent office. Who are you anyway? What profession are you in? How many degrees from higher education do you have? Get off this forum you troll!! |
After trying and keeping the SR Black Duplex and Blue Fuse, I gave a try to their HFT system. Since that worked based on a mix of 32 of them (and not on the speaker face), I tried their Blackbox and Atmosphere XL4. The Blackbox placed unlike where the instructions indicate "at least 3" from a wall) turned out to be great placed 6’ from the front wall in front of the plane of the speakers. The Atmosphere is the most expensive tweak of the above mentioned and does not add as much value as that as the other tweaks; however, it does add to all of them and I can afford it.
I recommend the duplex and fuse tweaks first unless you have an unruly acoustic room problem. Then the HFT system is very, very important. For me, it eliminated many acoustic panels and other room acoustic controls.
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My experience with SR blue fuses indicate a consistency in their directionality. The Black SR fuses and Blue SR fuses exhibited the same directionality (writing on the fuse and arrow). In one pair of mono-blocks the writing faced inward on both screw-in fuse holders. In another stereo amp the writing faced outward on a screw-in fuse holder. My conclusion is that the fuses are probably consistent in directionality but equipment using the same basic purpose (turn-on power supply fuses) can differ. |
First, if there is no improvement immediately, install the fuse in the opposite direction. If still no improvement, then send it back, it doesn't work for your audio system. Building an audio system requires synergy, if it doesn't improve the sound, then at that point in building a system it is a wrong choice. It maybe a correct choice in the future as the audio system changes. It's an art to building a system, not a science. |
dwstudeman is calling audiophiles dopes if we believe fuses and directionality make an audible difference. Fine, calls us names but it won't change the FACT that 10,000s of audiophiles believe differently as well as some manufacturers. My skeptical manufacturing friend heard it and chose to change from fuses to circuit breakers to increase the surface area of the protection circuit, just like putting a large gauge wire or metal block in the place of a tiny fuse wire. That's the only reason he came up with for the vast difference between fuses-that they are NOT made the same or operate the same way and are different. Otherwise, he's satisfied that there exists a difference even without explaining the why of it.
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gdhal - I'm a proponent and I am borderline wealthy-like Don Rickles was when he died mitch2 - Go to http://www.groverhuffman.com/home and you will see how complicated a process is to build audiophile quality cabling. It's time consuming and intricate. |
I have not chosen to try to reverse my 30’ long speaker cables due to their location in an underground conduit (pulling them out is easy, pulling them through the conduit is not as easy).
Why would I even bother with lamp chord wire to use for speaker cables? That’s just stupid. I had lamp chord wire when I was a teenager 40 years ago. I’ve learned through hearing, better cabling designs and materials improve the connection. Whether or not they are directional is unimportant to me but apparently it is to you. Go do the experiment yourself Gdhal as I’m not interested.
Changing a fuse direction is simple. |
