Tekton Double Impacts

I am working on some Impact Monitors for another and it has given me ideas. Ideas for a killer monitor. Just in the infancy stage right now so I will hold off for now saying anything more. 

All current DI speakers come this way stock and have been for some months now...just not sure how many months. It is his latest.   

That 2170 makes every single speaker I have placed on it sound just wonderful after room correction. Mine will never leave! Right now it is playing some Living Voice OBX RW speakers beautifully. These speakers are my current project. LV speakers were “made” for tube amps, but the 2170 is magic with these speakers also. 

Enjoy! Most likely still breaking in as it does need up to 400 hours.  

The 2170 is very special on the DI speakers.  

Couple of things you may already know, but just in case.....

- leave it fully on, not standby, but fully on for best sound.
- put a good cord/conditioner on it like Core Power Technologies
- decent footers

Thats it!

Mine is on all the time. Pulls like 22 watts at most! System always sounds great with no warm up needed.

One more thing. Western Electric 10 gauge bulk speaker cable is very nice on your speaker and has a wonderful warm, full bodied tone. It is very inexpensive as an 8 foot set would cost about $65.

I am using it and love it. Great tone and as far from bright as I can imagine.

Here is a link,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/16ft-Heavy-Duty-Western-Electric-AIW-10ga-SPEAKER-WIRE-stranded-cloth-PAIR/...

Cut the 16ft run in half for an 8 foot set. The seller has longer lengths available and is a great ebay seller. I am confident it will bring your system up another level from the current cable you are using. 

The brightness is coming from elsewhere based on the sonic signature of the 2170. It is a tad warmish in stock form. I have learned a great deal about Computer playback and specifically usb of late.

I have many cures for you, but some will cost a little. Here is what you can look at for free.

1) work on the DI toe in. Try no toe in at all and then a very slight toe in. I mean the slightest wee bit of toe in. This should help.

2) I have no idea what computer you are using as a source. If a laptop, then run off the battery not using the wall wart cord. Still a tad bright? Did this remedy it?

3) More burn in time for the speakers and 2170.

For little money ......

Get a better usb cable and power cord. I would be willing to make you a killer cord for the cost of parts. A three foot cable for around $100-$130 that will compete with anything retailing for up to $2500. It will do wonders.

Core Power Technology makes great power cables with the balanced conditioner built right in! You would only need the small model 50 or 150. Mark may have demo units for a great price. These have surge protection which is important. Your wife will understand protecting your investment with surge protection 😁

I saw a BPT 1 on sale for $550 on Audio Mart. This is a great balanced power conditioner that will indeed help with your desire. I think $425 - $500 shipped is a fair price. These work great on digital gear. You will still want a decent power cord on the 2170. However, with the BPT 1 you can also plug your computer into it.


Usb cables are important. I made my own and it is as good or even better than the Curious usb cable which is my favorite. Usb filter devices from Ifi are the real deal and sound very analog and natural. From the $99 usb purifier to the Micro USB 3. DH Labs makes a decent usb cable  for $60. The Silver Sonic.
I would need to know know more about your front end to help.

Not aware of and cannot find this NEW WE cable you say is being sold?

Yes. Add a 15 ohm resistor across the two 6 inch midrange drivers. . One 15 ohm resistor placed in each speaker. It needs to be placed in parallel to the 68uf shunt capacitor. The resistor should be at least 10 watts.

You will need to access the crossover board behind the tweeter array and solder it in parallel to that 68uf electrolytic Capacitor. Not easy.

Newer DIs have this resistor already. Not sure the date the builder starting adding these parallel resistors. My speakers were made in August and did not have them. I very much liked the result finding the speaker was more cohesive and smooth. Smoothness and a wonderful cohesiveness was readily noticeable. My wife did a blind a/b with the resistor in and out and MUCH preferred the sound with the resistor in place. Same with me. Not a slight difference, but one you will hear right away. My crossover is outboard so I could easily compare with the resistor in and out of the circuit. The sonic improvement was so enjoyable for us that I soldered in the Duelund 15 ohm resistor in short order. 

Dont use a cheap sand cast resistor IMHO. Parts in parallel crossover positions also matter. I used a nice Duelund CAST. You could also use Mills MRA12 resistors at just $4 each.

I want to share that Eric at Tekton was kind enough to share the value of this resistor to me. This is a very worthwhile upgrade and points to the fact that the builder is passionate about continuously extracting the very best sound possible out of his design without raising the price!

The two junctions points to solder in the resistor are easy to locate and that is good news. Since it is soldered in parallel to the small black and white 68uf electrolytic cap start looking for it.  It is located in between ( almost centered)  between the three inductor/coils. This cap is actually connected to the largest inductor/coil of the three. The point that they both meet the parts are twisted together and soldered. One end of the resistor is soldered here. The other end of the 68uf cap is the junction point for all the black (-)wire negative leads from the tweeters and midrange drivers. Easy to spot as you will see many solder connections here with black (-) wire leads from the drivers. The other end of the resistor goes here. 

I forget which end of the crossover board you need to access. Was it towards the top or bottom of the array? I forget. Sorry. Remove the top or bottom midrange driver and take a quick look. Can you access the solder points without removing the board? Possibly if partially behind one of the midrange drivers.  I think it is possible, but you will need surgeon like skills 😊

The board is hot glued and can be pried lose by using a stiff paint scraper etc...between the board and cabinet and slowly and carefully separating it from the cab from the lower midrange driver opening. The driver wires have some slack and you can now carefully move the board within the speaker and position it so you can access the resistor solder points through a mid driver cutout. Solder in the resistor and reapply some glue, liquid nails etc.  behind the board and press back into position. Not easy, but it can be done carefully.  

 

@mac48025.    Seems like you have to order at least 100 feet.  Wonder if this stuff is exactly the same as the NOS stuff? Interesting. I prefer the Duelund version of this wire as they do not use pvc. They only use natural fibers and oil.  I think that makes a difference. In addition,  the Duelund wire is Cryo treated.  I use the NOS WE 10 gauge as Duelund does not make this thick gauge just yet. I have long speaker wire runs and want a heavy gauge. 

@mofojo

Yes you can but a couple of things to consider.

- once you attach the clips you will have to put the driver back in place and be very sure that part and the clip does not come loose and short out! Oh my!
- the clip will impart a sound and not for the positive. Just realize this. Not a big deal unless your me and have audio issues 😉

But seriously, the danger of a Short is a real concern and approach this carefully. Perhaps Blue Tac and zip tie or something to keep the part in place. Be sure the clips are not going to move or fall off.

Can you run a thin set of wire leads out the cabinet with the mid driver in place ( not 100% tightened) and the resistor hanging outside the cab for quick removal and insertion into the circuit? Sure.

Remember, the drivers have simple wood screws holding them in and the more you remove and tighten them to more you weaken the hold. All that a/b (ing) will take a toll.

You can use bare wire if your posts take them easily. On the amp end my 2170 has large holes in the posts that accept the 10 gauge wire nicely. On the speaker end the Cardas binding posts don’t have a hole and it is not easy or secure to wrap the thick wire around the posts so I use these...

http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/neotech-sk-8y-spade-p-2020

These are priced right and don’t require soldering. Set screws are used to secure the wire to the barrel and that is a good thing sonically. Solder does not sound as good! Sonic Craft also sells the Neotech banana versions which are also very good. They are synergistic with the wire and have a nice rich, warm, and natural tone.

I usually prefer no connectors, but these seem to work well with the WE 10 gauge.  

I actually asked and they are just talking about it now with nothing in the works yet. 

Hi JT. I was talking about making you a power cable and we can contact each other directly on that. Yes, your computer is not ideal and I think you already know that. Computer audio can sound amazing, but like great analog rigs ..... everything matters. 

A gaming/business computer is powerful but contains all kinds of additional processes and complexity in the operating system that just kills sound quality. In addition, a quality usb card from SOtM is really a plus with the Lyngdorf.  Powering this SOtM card with a linear power supply is also recommended. You can get a good one from TeraDak for $130.  Lastly, the products I mentioned from ifi are just wonderful and with a stripped down computer optimized for music only,  you have a killer front end. 

I realize this is more than you can do, but just wanted to make you aware of options and learnings with the Lyngdorf and computer audio. I have a dedicated computer for music that runs Windows 10 Pro, but I greatly simplified/reduced the operating system processes and maximized the sound quality with software products from Fidelizer and Audiophile Optimizer. This with a nice SOtM usb card powered by a linear power supply, decent usb cable, and the iFi Micro usb 3 have turned my computer front end into a digital music making marvel. 

The difference is literally night and day compared to a standard computer only.  All digital glare, nasties, noise, edginess etc....is gone. What is left is smooth analog like rendering of your ripped cd collection and Tidal streaming. 

I don’t know about more perceived bass as that is not something I heard at all.  I did note a more cohesive sound from top to bottom and that made the speaker more musical and enjoyable.  

@lpretiring.

Thanks. My comments were in response to the Zero Fidelity video comments.

This is really something every DI speaker owner should have in their speakers. We really enjoyed the result. The speaker was already great, this is just a nice little jump in musicality. While your at it upgrade those caps! Ha!

Tom, I think you could handle it if directly behind a mid driver. I do want to emphasize the speaker is still wonderful without it. 

Please remember that Zero Fidelity made us all aware of the latest change, not me. I just answered a question posted on this thread. 

Your confusion in terms of version is not from me, it is rather from the iterations of the builder in a short amount of time. I just made you aware. 

I agree with your general thought however on the topic. Will stop posting here on tech matters and this speaker.  

My room is 34x24 with 10 foot ceilings. In my small room the 15 ohm parallel resistor was much preferred by my wife and I in blind testing. 

Upgrading the crossover with the same spec values, but only using carefully chosen, better quality parts will improve the sound. By the way, parts that are also tighter tolerance spec’d and layed out to eliminate inductor crosstalk. Internal wire is also plays an important SQ role.  I know first hand As I did it. Two folks heard the SE speakers in Chicago and came to my home two weeks later to listen to my upgraded DIs. Both were speechless just kept looking at each other saying one word over and over....wow! Both shared these were better sounding. Perhaps my Lyngdorf 2170 played a role even though is costs far less than the gear running the SEs in Chicago.

I share because some here are interested in these facts. In the spirit of what can be and options....I shared. I won’t share anymore technical details as stated earlier, however these speakers are perfect candidates for the stars in terms of SQ. ( yes they are to the moon in SQ stock). Eric’s design paired with a skilled and careful upgrade plan both can live wonderfully together. They are not at odds, but rather additive. Not all will care or want to deal with this sort of thing. Some will.

These are perfect candidates because of their lower price point and positive response to top tier parts and layout. No different than affordable amps that are popular for DIY upgrades with all kinds of info here on the net.

The topic at hand extends beyond a particular set of speakers. All gear is made to hit a price point so the builder and employees can make money. This is a must and we all should understand it. Your amps, dacs, speakers, etc... can all be improved with smart and well planned upgrades in parts. Most pieces sitting in our rooms are ripe for nice SQ improvements because builders are not going to put in $300 Duelund capacitors and $35 resistors. This is not voodoo stuff folks.

Tube regulated power supply? A very nice touch if that is being done. Fun stuff. 

  Motherlode! LOL! 

You need to get a nice badge made up that you can stick to this beauty. 

Oh my! That is great. 

Wonderful! Most happy for you. 

@david_ten 

I just read up on your new integrated amplifier. That is a fantastic looking build and design. Serious power supply and build construction is just the start with this piece. Congrats on your purchase. I bet your system sounds amazing! 

Nice system! Like that older CD  player also.  

@charles1dad and I read it the same way. Tekton is sure getting all kinds of great reviews and comments from the industry. 

Very happy for you @grey9hound 

I can tell by your excitement and manner that your system sounds very special and now at the point where it is fine tuned and well paired.  It does take effort and time.  Nice! 

I will certainly keep that in mind and enjoy! 

Nice indeed. Happy for you Eric. 

I love the friendly wager! Detroit is known for chili dogs🙂 Coney Island style! What else is known as a Detroit cuisine? 

The Encore speaker seems like a real gem.  I have to hear a set based on the drivers used and the now proven design.  The size of this speaker also seems reasonable for many of us. I have no doubt these may be the creme of a very potent crop of Tekton speakers! I leave out the massive sized Ulfs which simply are too large for msny of us. 

The 2170 has a separate high quality analog input module that can be purchased...I believe.  I don’t have it on mine. 

@waltersalas Those new speakers are very, very impressive looking to me in terms of the drivers and design. My hunch is they are very special sounding and a nice jump up in SQ from the very good DI family. 

A couple of things on the Lyngdorf unit that really make a big, if not a huge difference in musicality. 

- run RP right away and be sure to have least 95-97% of the room read and understood by RP.  Follow the mic placement instructions carefully. 

- leave the unit fully on at all times....not stand by.  The unit sounds far more organic, natural and fully bloomed after 12 hours of being on.  This is IMPORTANT. It draws less watts than most light bulbs and stays cool.  Mine is on all the time, unless on vacation away from home for a week. 

- it will take 300-400 hours to fully burn in and sound its best. That is just the way it is with this digital piece. Yes it sounds good right away and marvelous after 200 hours.....

Have fun! 

My DIs were perfectly finished as well. 

I am over 6000 miles and like you have been layering up for 35 degree rides with wind.  However, today the temp is 63 degrees here in the Franklin, TN area! Heading out for a short and fast 20 miler! 

I ride a Trek Domane S6 Disc. I needed a tall head tube and good geometry for my bad lower back and 6ft 4in height. The Trek 62 fits me very well. I am retired so I have time to ride, build cables and mod gear!

Please let us know the preamp.   Love to know. Thanks! 

Thanks a bunch! 

David, I just finished reading up on your amplifiers. Love the design, parts choice and aesthetics! Makes me want to go out and purchase high efficiency speakers! Nice indeed.

Very interesting matching with a SOTA SS preamp. I will read up more on the Grandinote.

Tom, I also love your tube amplifier from Aric. You guys are causing me to have a bout of tube envy! I have been researching a tube amp build best suited for my Dali Epicon 6 speakers. I don’t need more than some 20- 35 watts as I just don’t play my music loud anymore. My speakers are easier to drive than the specs would suggest. I am itching to build one as a long term keeper.