Technics SP 10 mc II. Worth looking at?

The SP10 mkII is on an online auction and  as we are having a Covid lockdown situation here in Australia I can’t physically check it out. I’m looking to rebuild my system after loosing it all in a house fire. I had a Technics 120 with a SME 3009, and a Shure V-15, as you did in the seventies. I’m pretty sure that the SP 10 mkII would be an upgrade from the Luxman pd290 that I bought for $10. I guess the system is only ever going to be Midfi as I don’t have the funds, my preamp is a Cary slp 03 bought off Audigon and a Cary rocket 88 as a power amp. Following the pretty positive comments about the SP 10 here I think I’ll give it a run for the money, it’s up to about AUS$1000 now and a few more days to go

At present the $1000 value is close to the Tonearm Value if AUS $ is converted to GBP. 

I can see this creeping toward AUS $2000+ if the SP10 is looking in poor
condition.
A VGC SP10 can command a high price.

Here is the good new My Own SP10 MkII was a Chassis Only barn find.
I was in need of TLC from an EE who fully understands the SP10 needs and returned to the finest of  Specimens.
The Chassis received a Custom Spray Paint Coating from a Automotive
Custom Spray Paint Specialist.
I chose a colour that the Workshop was working with on a Vehicle and I got the chassis coated for £70.

My SP10 in a Densified Wood Plinth has changed my use of TT's and it is the Model used over other owned DD, Idler Drive and Belt Drive TT's.

If you want to go this route I can put you in touch with fellow Countrymen 
who are working with these Models as their got to projects, and I am sure you will be inspired by them.


  

@pindac thanks for that. I’m not sure what the plinth is, in the images it looks like a constructed ply base about 4 inches high so a new plinth could be called for.  One site suggested travertine as an option 

If a TT arrives with a Plinth, I would not concern oneself too much about the methods and materials used to produce the structural device.
Much better time will be spent learning how to mount the TT on a support device.
A cheap option will be to go for a Wall Mounted TT Shelve, and then use a Sub Plinth and decide on a few different footer types to isolate the Wall shelf and Sub Plinth and the Sub Plinth and TT Plinth.
Once you are rewarded with the values on offer for the mounting of the TT, any changes made for a Plinth down the line will be benefitted by the mounting system produced, 'well as long as',  it can take the weight of a new plinth design.      

The only "irreplaceable" part is the single IC, MN6042.  JP Jones has developed a replacement part for the MN6042, built from discrete SMD components.  So there is nothing to fear in terms of parts.  His business is called "Fidelis Analog", and you can find it on-line.  If you are buying an aged device, andt you want it to work precisely up to its original specification, it just makes sense to replace all the electrolytic capacitors, unless you can verify that it was recently done by a previous owner.  The OEM capacitors would now be at least 40 years old.  However, there is no need to be concerned about film capacitors; they last "forever" unless their voltage rating has been exceeded in circuit.  In connection with replacing the electrolytics, you can think about having it calibrated as well.  These precautionary service steps should not be expensive.  In the US, one can buy all the needed capacitors for under $20.  If you needed to replace the MN6042 IC, that would cost more; consult JP.  If the tt runs up to speed and is speed stable, chances are you do not need a new IC.