Synergistic Research HFT + FEQ

I offer the following, after my first few months with an FEQ:

I would experiment with other isolation devices in addition to
MIGS, to get the most from the FEQ. This makes a huge difference, as does the underlying support material (shelf or stand) you are using. Symposium Rollerblocks work very well for me, on a granite slab.

It is normal for the transformer to feel warm to the touch.
It is best not to enclose it or restrict air circulation.

I like lifting the wires off the floor, and am supporting them on
egg crates. I also clean both ends of both connectors, periodically.

I also have a Schumann Resonator at the other end of the room,
and feel it works very well with the FEQ.

Be careful not to treat the FEQ with any demagnetizing device.
It will take days for it to "settle down" and perform well again!

I am happiest with the Stein Speaker Match, which
integrate the top and bottom of my biwired Martin Logan Prodigys
as never before. The XOT did nothing for me,
but at least I gave them a try. (It was not a close comparison...)

SR suggests a 72 hour period before evaluating the XOT...
(now they tell me!)

You might want to try copper sleeves over the XOT
connections. I polished the inside and outside of 1 inch pieces before putting in place. It will change the sound!

My version, DIY: (thanks, Ozzy)

Parts...

1) copper fitting reducer 3/8 to 1/4 (about an inch long)
OR any 1/4 diameter copper pipe, bought from AC, refrigeration supplier

2) 7mm (9/32) brass fly tying coneheads, 100 count, from
Rip Lips Fishing

Process...

Clean all metal surfaces with Wright's anti-tarnish silver polish
Use a hacksaw to cut the fittings to size (cut in half, using a vise)
Place conehead on top of open (1/4) end of fitting, and, on a solid surface,
strike about five times with a hammer, forcing the larger conehead into the fitting so that the tops are level. This way, one fitting can turn into two completed units when each contains its own conehead.

Total cost is just under two dollars per unit, and no glue is needed.
And the sound? To me, a bit harsher and more "forward" than the originals.
This is not necessarily bad, as you can experiment, creating different placement patterns of the DIY and original versions, to suit your taste.

Where else can you have so much fun, for so little money?
(They can also work in your car.)

Years ago I read about glass and similar materials
as they apply to vibration control. I have had excellent
results with pieces I have bought from Prism Research Glass, Inc.
in Raleigh N.C.

I use the sixteenth inch thickness of Quartz glass discs
in conjunction with vibration control pieces, such as Symposium,
BDR, and Aurio. I place the discs on both sides of these pieces,
making a sandwich of them, so that the Quartz glass has contact with the
bottom of the speaker or electronic piece and the shelf.
It does change the sound, for the better, IMO.

I also experimented with DIY HFTs, and found that, by breaking
the discs into smaller triangular pieces (the company does not make
them smaller than 2" discs, I think) they provide "support" for the HFT.
I roll a thin bead of BLU Tack and affix it to the open side
of the HFT. Then I attach it to the Quartz glass, and affix the
Quartz glass to the wall, for example. On the back of the
Quartz piece is either a piece of double sided Scotch tape or
a small circle of Blu Tack. I can hear an improvement this way, versus
simply placing the HFT directly to the wall. I think the Quartz glass might
be "energizing" the movement of air?

The Wide Angle version HFTs may provide a short cut for you, and
result in better sound.  You can really "dial in" the sound!

Are these an option for you?
If they were available in the beginning, I think I would have saved 
time and money.