Very tempted to buy some AH.
Like most of you, I have been using the SR Red for a while (yes, they are directional, same as caps but that's for another thread) and am very happy with it, no downside compared to the others that I have/had. Still keeping the Furutech's Rhodium for some gear, relegating HiFi Tuning Supremes (forget the HiFi Golds) to my 2nd system. The best bang/buck, though at entry level, are the AMR golds, now relegated to ancillary devices such as NAS, routers.
Am also interested to hear the
Audio Magic Beeswax Premiere. Have good experience with their Super Fuse in my mono blocks. The dampening method reminds me that some manufacturers like Audience use dampening material inside the conditioners (on the caps) and once even used dampening material inside the AC plugs of their first series of powerChord. Oyaide wall plates are solid built and the material used are supposed to reduce vibrations as well. I have one installed, noticed some improvement.
Anyone have good experience using dampening material on power cords / distribution boxes? |
Probably time for a group buy for AH fuses. BTW AH reseller states this "If you are a former Audio Horizons customer or order of components upgrade, there is a 15% discount off the $115 MSRP...". Where do you get a lasting audible improvement for just one Benjamin?
In my tube DAC and my NAD amp I am happy with the sound of SR Red.
/Wig: do you have any equipment with more than one AH fuse?
/abuck: sometimes it is visible on the fuse holder (IME on most holders it is outside to inside where the current flows), it is easier for fuses inside the unit to see where the current is going to (just remove the fuse and use a multimeter to see where the end is that is live).
/mitch2: lucky you, I got 2 systems to feed. BTW is there any downside to wrapping them in Teflon? I do that as standard procedure. Also, when the WA chip still is sticky enough, I pass it down to the successor.
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Thanks wig! Many a times you have made excellent recommendations, like the CH X-20 which is indeed a keeper. I have just ordered a couple AH Platinums for the upstream devices in my main system. |
Neal, SR Red is known to blow earlier than others, buy one with a slightly higher value. Or use this opportunity to try the AH Platinum or AM Beewax.
BTW do you still regard the LessLoss DFPC Ref as your reference PC? |
/pal: user
vcomerch on the Gon or direct at
audiohorizons@yahoo.com (Joseph Chow), he shipped my order the same day of the order, will have them in a few and will report back after 50-100h break in. /wig: so you also use them at power amp level? I like it best for upstream equipment: does everything right. |
I have now about 30h with the AH Platinum (just in one device to hear the difference), no downsides compared to SR Red, more delicate, more "au naturel". Joseph uses a different coating (silver on?) on the fuse than other good fuses.
/wolf
>>
I think you're all insane, but mildly entertaining.
Tell me something we don't know :-) If a Benjamin can make your system (much) more "organic" then so be it, it is very well spent compared to other insane stuff I have. You don't have to rush and buy a dozen like mitch2 (who I believe saves a ton by DIY his own cables), just upstream devices to start with.
IME fuses have a much higher value/buck than power cords. |
Most amp manufacturers don't believe in after market fuse, and in lesser extend -power cords. I have had several well known brands (ARC, Krell, CJ to name a few) and they all HAVE to say that it does not matter from a corporate point of view.
The IsoClean is of course better than stock but nowhere as good as the SR Red or the AH Platinum. I have tried most of the after market fuses in my systems and fuses provide indeed one of the highest ROI (highest is dedicated line(s), then AC outlet). When I try a new device, the first thing I do is to upgrade the fuse(s) after initial listening. |
macdude, thanks for the comments on the AM Beewax. Love to hear anyone's experience on the A/B between the AM Beewax and the AH Platinum.
As for shortening the fuse, this is an old trick, not tweak. I tried that on some of the devices before, the same goes for hard wiring your device directly to the AC socket (I tried that on the power conditioner cord once), yes of course it works but no thanks, I'd rather have a safety in the form of a fuse in case something goes south.
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Knghifi,
Try the AH in stead of the Isoclean, you will thank me for that.
David,
my son plays the violin, also all-state and the WA Quantum chip is still sitting there.
Generally, I have max. ONE fuse with the WA chip per device and have noticed no noticeable downside. As with a lot of tweaks, you can have too much of the same.
SR has a winner now with the SR Red fuse but many of us remember when their wizard of Oz each time promises a quantum leap (pun intended) and two months later you have the 2nd version, or a newer bullet. I am bit wary of their other tweaking gear because of their history and my experience and, for now, wait patiently to see if their three letter magic devices are here to stay.
Mind you that the deployment of a good bypass cap mostly improves the sound but that requires some soldering.
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electroslacker: the 5A 250V will work both in Europe (220/240V) and the US. Fuses are supposed to blow when the specified current is exceeded (give or take a couple percent).
Tom: you piqued my interest as I never tried DIYing magnets before. I do believe in the enhancement that magnetic cables a la HFC bring a lot to the table. Care to share more? "Don’t do this at home" sounds like you are inserting a series of conductive N25 chips where the fuse is...cost is indeed a couple of bucks and a high(er) adrenaline every time you turn that thing on and hope your house circuit breaker still works. Am I close?
>>... no bang ...
well maybe a big one someday?
Replacing ferrous with non-ferrous material is known on/around sockets, I have replaced the standard covers with carbon fiber versions for selected sockets. I guess one of the reasons the PI Uberbuss works so well is that it comes in a wooden box that is on top treated with AVM paint. Basically, quality (some croy’ed) sockets, LC circuits, non-vibrating box and a steel AC sockets cover. I prefer Audience’s concept that truly isolates each socket, high quality caps and the use of a ground bar. As you know, they use their own dampening coating on their D models. It took a while before John McD decided to offer the superior GTX-D sockets as option. Their Cardas plugs are not in the top of the range.
As for fuses, I will order a Bee wax Super Fuse so I comp it between the SR Red and AH Platinum in my DAC |
Tom, are the N52 with mu-metal collar around its center off Ebay? Any pointers are appreciated.
Jerry, so no fuse and no power cords......are you suggesting you are listening from a hand turned gramophone? You know it doesn't have to be stereo all the time...
On a more serious note, do your Romex wires go from the panel goes into each device, no plugs? Sounds a bit scary like "Look, no hands, ma!"
As for the tunneling and the magnets, I think the closer we can get to the state of superconductivity w/o a billion dollar lab, the lower the distortion can be.
Just got the BeeWax for my DAC, Jerry of AM told me to put 125h in so that is now cooking in another device. |
