You have powered woofers in these speakers that you can tune to a perfect blend with the panels. You can turn up the bass and still retain woofer/panel integration. Adding extra subs, in my opinion, is asking for trouble. You will most likely not get the timing right and it will be a major pain to integrate.
Subwoofers - Final Thoughts with Martin Logan ESL 13A
I’ve narrowed this down to 3 choices (I think) and was looking to see if anyone has had some experience with pairing these subs with ML ESLs? I can’t try and return because they are mostly secondhand purchases, so hoping to get it right the first time!
Force Cancelling subs have been highly recommended, so:
KEF KC92 (or KF92 older model) 2, 3 or possible 4 of these:
https://assets.kef.com/product-support/kc92-subwoofer/KC92_info_sheet_EN_V4_20240124.pdf
Martin Logan BalancedForced 210 - Maybe the best as they match up nicely, but I could probably only do one of these as they are HUGE. I have only one spot I could put one as far as the manual's recommendation goes. Martin Logan says these will cover 3000 sq. ft. My room is only 500 sq. ft. Two maybe overkill, but some say, "2 subs or no subs" Maybe I could put another addition on the house :-(
https://www.martinlogan.com/en/product/balancedforce-210 - click on Specs/Lit
Lastly, The Swarm Subwoofer System - not sure how well this would work with my ESLs.
https://www.audiokinesis.com/the-swarm-subwoofer-system-1.html
Any advice would greatly be appreciated (as usual).
Thanks, and all the best of the season to you all!
Showing 20 responses by audphile1
Hey @navyachts all good here! Hope you’re doing well! I never felt the need for subs with the ML Montis. I’m surprised to hear your setup is lacking in bass department. It’s possible you’re sitting in a null. That’s the only thing I can think of. |
@navyachts balanced sound is key. Too much bass and it overshadows the mids and highs - you lose clarity and details. Not enough bass and your system will most likely sound bright. Use the flashlight trick for the toe in with MLs. I would still recommend to pursue resolution to your bass concerns with speaker placement. |
@ozzy +1 subs used to boost bass will just completely break a good setup
@navyachts definitely try a sub but I’m surprised you’re selling your Aurender. What do you have in mind for a source to replace the N200? |
I encourage you to spend a very good amount of time using the Bricasti network renderer before you sell your Aurender N200. I’ve used the M3 long enough to realize how crappy the network card is as a streamer (used as Roon endpoint as well as with Mcinnect). When I bought my N200 it just blew away the network renderer without breaking a sweat using the stock USB cable that I found in the Aurender box. I’ve gone back and forth many times and there’s just simply no comparison. I owned CSiB and it’s an amazing amplifier (same amp as your No.8). It is fast, articulate, engaging and super clear sounding. No grain, no glare. I think selling your N200 to buy a sub is a mistake. Selling your Coda preamp gives you options - try a good tube pre ir get a sub. Just my opinion. |
@rauliruegas thank you for the compliments sir. I don’t disagree with what you’re saying. Problem is, every room is different. Every listener is different. What is OPs point of reference for bass? Is it a live concert? Is it the bass he gets in his car?
Wilsons are difficult to place correctly as well due to time alignment - sensitive to placement changes less than an inch depending on where they are in a room. I can place my speakers to overload the room with bass. That’s easy. Most difficult is to find placement that provides coherent presentation. Then there are variables such as type of music you listen to and recording quality. |
I wouldn’t sell any components if I were you. You may regret it. ML finally, after many years, were able to get the panel/woofer integration correct. |
LOL @navyachts you essentially have tone controls now. Turn up the bass level knob in the back of the ML woofer cabinets. 😂 |
@navyachts You got it! Keep us posted please |
@rauliruegas I get it. But…I’m enjoying the music with my system and I do not hear IMD. Neither do I need to obsess over it because…
This sounds like truth as I cannot detect any distortion. The drivers cross over seamlessly. I’m very thorough when it comes to my system but I think we’re attempting to shoot down a fly with a bazooka here… By the way I looked at your system page and I’m very impressed! Gorgeous system and some collection of cartridges you got there…enjoy! |
@rauliruegas thank you. And yes I’m aware of Wilson Audio roots. And I did read that stereophile review and J.A’s measurements section. No speaker is perfect. |
@navyachts a thought just popped in my head… When I had the Montis I ran them first with Rogue ST100 amplifier driven by RP1 and later by RP5 and then finally by Pass XP-12. Every one of these preamps had different capabilities in the lower registers. I then upgraded from ST100 to Pass XA30.8 for better synergy with the XP-12. The bass output was so prominent that I actually had to dial the bass down a notch or two on the back of the Montis bass cabinets. I also just recently had Coda CSiB V1 integrated which is the same amp as the No.8 you’re using in your system. This was with my Wilsons but let’s forget that for a second. The bass with Coda V1 is quiet different from pretty much any amp I owned before. It is fast, tuneful and articulate. Compared to Pass amps it’s definitely leaner. I believe it’s due to the amp design (no or low feedback). It is possible that what you’re experiencing is related to the way your Coda amp presents the lower registers. I’m not familiar with what the Coda preamps sound like so I may be completely off track here. Add to this the fact that the ML panels are pretty power hungry and can take toll on the amplifier, it could be something worth exploring. Coda amps are high current and have capability to drive your speakers without issues, however, I would run this by Doug Dale and get his take on it. Doug can upgrade the V1 to V2 or V3 which would give you less Class A power but potentially more “slam” in the bass. Wild thought but I wouldn’t cross it off the list. As a side note, I really liked the Coda integrated and liked its bass. But it’s all subjective. You may be craving more oomph and the V2 or V3 might fix that for you |
@navyachts cool. Can you try the Bricasti direct into the amp using the M1S2 preamp section? See if any difference in bass between it and the coda pre? |
@navyachts yes I remember since I got the Wilsons right after I sold the MLs. It’s a completely different sound. The MLs were slightly warmer and darker sounding than the Wilsons. The Sabrinas are more open, more detailed and more realistic especially with music involving drums. It’s a more “live” sound than the MLs. Very transparent but not bright. Great clarity. |
Well you already sold your N200 so any conversation on the Bricasti network renderer vs. N200 is moot. But in any case…. Sometimes you won’t realize what’s missing until you spend time with one component before you reintroduce the other. Good news is you can always buy an N200 or any other dedicated streamer, or preamp. It’s all part of the game! Lol
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@navyachts cool. May be worth giving Audirvana a try as well for comparison. |
Happy Holidays to you too @navyachts ! |