>09-03-10: Longhornguy
>Monoblocks are usually not the best answer in practical applications.
>
>Unless you have a dedicated 20 or 30 amp circuit in your power box, you will short out your 15 amp breaker with 5-7 monoblocks + tv + etc etc.
Only if you try to feed them test tones, have very small sub woofers with a lot of equalization, or the amps are biased for enough class-A output that they're doubling as a space heater in which case the extra air-conditioning will be a bigger problem.
For the last three years I had my home theater setup prior to moving I ran a half dozen amplifiers (7.1 with actively tri-amplified front speakers) placarded at 5760 Watts maximum off a single circuit along with 675W of recessed lighting.
It never popped a breaker because the amplifiers were generally loafing along at under 200W total (although reference level home theater can get loud, there's enormous dynamic range and the average isn't even a Watt).
>Monoblocks are usually not the best answer in practical applications.
>
>Unless you have a dedicated 20 or 30 amp circuit in your power box, you will short out your 15 amp breaker with 5-7 monoblocks + tv + etc etc.
Only if you try to feed them test tones, have very small sub woofers with a lot of equalization, or the amps are biased for enough class-A output that they're doubling as a space heater in which case the extra air-conditioning will be a bigger problem.
For the last three years I had my home theater setup prior to moving I ran a half dozen amplifiers (7.1 with actively tri-amplified front speakers) placarded at 5760 Watts maximum off a single circuit along with 675W of recessed lighting.
It never popped a breaker because the amplifiers were generally loafing along at under 200W total (although reference level home theater can get loud, there's enormous dynamic range and the average isn't even a Watt).