Spiking speakers not designed for spikes?


Has anyone had good luck doing this?  I have some PSB Stratus Golds from 1994 that I'm having problems upgrading, so I'm going to try tweaking what I have.  They have these cheesy, wooden bases that I'm nervous about removing or drilling into.  If I do decide to spike these suckers, would anyone recommend outriggers?  Or trying to attach spikes directly to the speakers.
Thank you for your time!
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Showing 2 responses by millercarbon

g_nakamoto asks:
what does 'spiking' mean?


This goes back to a misconception a lot of guys have about how cones work. When we don't understand something very well we reach for metaphors which in this case watch for 'grounding', 'coupling', 'sink', 'isolating', bunch of stuff like that. What they all have in common is a misunderstanding of what is going on. Doesn't take a lot of trying different things to disprove all these false notions. But hardly anyone can be bothered to actually try and see. Especially because when you actually try and see you invariably wind up learning a lot of what you thought you knew was wrong.

Anyway, the spike idea is something pointy digs down into the floor or whatever to where it becomes more solidly anchored and so either vibrations flow from the component to the floor (if you buy that one) or the massive floor keeps the speaker from moving around (if you're into that one) or both.

This is easily disproven by something as simple as placing a penny under each spike. The spike will no longer penetrate, and yet it will still work just fine. Maybe even better.

Every component I have ever seen is shipped with such awful footers that just about anything will be an improvement. So you try something, sure enough its better, and you congratulate yourself on being such a shrewd audiophile. Most of the stuff out there is pointy, the difference with pointy spikes is sharper leading transients which is really easy to hear, which is probably why so many think you need something sharp.

But the best Cones I ever tried had a relatively blunt 1/4" radius. Also you can experiment with something, anything, and learn pretty quickly the exact same material works differently when made into different shapes. Only takes a minute with a file to round off some cheap cones and prove this for yourself. Or make your own out of different materials.


Set em on some Cones.

You will have to experiment to find which works best. None need to be fastened, the weight of the speaker holds everything just fine. Also experiment with placing different things like MDF about 3" to 4" square or round directly under the Cones.

According to the Stereophile review the top piece is removable solid wood. You could try replacing it with something with more mass and/or damping. Granite or marble, lead shot or sand, etc. Same for the base if it can be removed or modded. 

Each of these will improve something you can hear. Its easy to make something better. What is hard is to make everything better across the board. For that you experiment with different combinations. The beauty of it is you set Cones underneath and try, you set something on top and try, but you don't go cutting anything until you have already figured out by trial and error what combination works the best.