Speaker cables for 4 ohm speakers

Out of curiosity have you tried not bi-wiring with the Canare and just using it single wired running it at its 11 gauge when both wires are combined? At a 12ft run the extra 3ga might help. If it does you can just buy another 12 run and use it for bi-wiring. Cheap solution.

I have run Canare single wired successfully. FWIW my issues with cable has usually been a problem with the highs and lows, not so much the mid-range, when the length of the runs is appropriate.

Yes. Use the two positives spades together and and the two negative spades together. You can use any of the sets of binding posts you wish. Personally I always use the bass posts but I must admit, I'm not a religious person when it comes to the issue of whether using bi-wiring is a real sonic improvement or just a commercial issue.

Some high quality speaker manufacturers resisted using bi wiring for a long time, some still do. I've played with it a lot and must admit to even using different types of cable on the highs and lows just to see if I could get a great blend on the cheap. I ended up single wiring my speakers a number of years ago, checking out the benefits with each new speaker arriving of bi-wiring, and have kept it simple. FWIW.

Resist the urge to try bi-amping your speakers. You really need a lot of experience, a good outboard cross over, and synergistic amps just to start out a very frustrating trip.

The only bi-amping I would ever recommend is using idential amps and for me that is right up there with bi wiring for probable benefits, and a lot more expense.

BTW, if you ultimately decide to go with single wire using the Canare, I'd chop off the spades and replace them with some locking bananas or large(r) spades. FWIW a tweaky suggestion while I'm at it. I go to my handy electronics store and buy some 1/4" pure copper lugs used for batteries. They can handle very heavy gauge cable (but you need a vice to crimp them) and then you remove the nuts on the binding posts and slip the lugs on over the posts. Makes for a much better and safer connection. These will not come loose. And, FWIW, I think the pure copper might actually sound a bit better, but its probably just the better connection. :-)

I think I understand now. You are comparing the sonics of the two amps using the same cable (Canare) and find the sound of the CSi to be different than the Modwright in a less than flattering way. You would like to change the cable to improve the sound. Correct?

If so you might try some Nordost cable in your budget. But be warned, some might feel that it opens up the sound, others might feel that it has the effect of changing the tonal balance, or that it might be bright. FWIW I suspect that you cannot really change the tone of your CSi by changing the cable enough to make it worthwhile, if at all. Sorry.

I'm not familar with the Coda product although I have heard that they are made by ex Threshold employees who worked for Nelson Pass and this product is much like the older Pass product designs. If that is the case perhaps what you really need is a different amp, for example a Bryston or something similar. FWIW.

Good luck

I see, you want a SS amp to sound like a tube amp in all of its best attribhutes with none of the downsides associated with running tubes. Good luck! If you succeed be sure to get a copy right and market it. All of us tube owners (or most anyway) will beat a path to your door and make you rich. :-) FWIW the Bryston won't sound like tubes either.

I never ran my Tylers with SS stuff but if I had to I would combine a Tubed pre-amp with a SS amp. I used my SP10II and a Threshold SA amp to run Thiels quite successfully until I got lured away by the call of 'tubed amps'.

I hope things work out for you.