Sources for information and/or advice on dedicated AC lines desired


I have relocated, and the new house will allow me to at long last have dedicated AC power lines in the music listening room. Halleluiah! I’ve seen the topic discussed over the years, and have a general idea of what is needed, but can I get recommendations of sources of information about the details of what the optimum power and wiring system is, and exactly what to have done by a professional electrician (in the event that is necessary) to achieve it? And/or personal advice on wiring and power sources (excluding power conditioners---I mean just raw power. I already have Shunyata and Bybee units for conditioning) required for optimum sound quality? For instance:

- How many separate lines from the main panel to the room? Separate lines for sources vs. amps, analog vs. digital? My system sources are LP, analog tape, digital, and FM radio. Three tube pre-amps, a couple of tube and three SS power amps. And ESL speakers and powered subs also needing AC, of course.

- Amperage advisable for each line? 20 Amps?

- What to look for to determine if the already-installed wire is sufficient? And if it is not, the type and gauge of wire to have installed? 10g Romex?

- Grounding---metal rod into the earth?

- Anything else of concern not listed above.

Thanks for any recommendations of sources of information. Personal recommendations and/or advice also welcomed!

128x128bdp24

Showing 11 responses by whart

I went through this back in around 2006 or 7 and got some great technical/code sorts of insights from a few contributors far more knowledgeable than me. I gave all of it to my electrician to review, and it helped.
Here’s what I know:
I wouldn’t use existing wiring, would use 20 amp lines with correspondingly heavy gauge wire, would have an electrical contractor that gets the inspector to permit/ approve it (and if possible, somebody who has had experience wiring stuff for studios or halls).
Unless you have the ability to get a completely separate service for your system, you are, as far as I know, going to be sharing ground with the household system, which has the potential for noise. There are tricks about which leg, etc. but the idea of a big-assed isolation transformer is a good one.
Do more outlets and lines than you think you need- way cheaper in the long run than having to break walls and have a new mess on your hands (with all your delicate gear, records, etc. whatever already in place).
I have an Equi=Tech big box sitting in storage- I thought I’d be relocated by now; there are some specialty panels made by audiophile companies, but I suspect the real hands-on folks may say Square D brand or equivalent is fine (that’s what’s currently being used in my NY house, 60 amp subpanel, plus a 240 volt line for one isolation/step down plus an additional isolation transformer for my tone arm air compressor).
I’d look at electric as part of an overall plan for the room- are you doing separate air conditioning system- Mike L followed certain practices used for studios to keep air rush quiet; also, I’d think about whatever current state of the art is in filtration to minimize dust but that’s a peeve of mine;
lay-out for signal cable routing;
lighting and how that relates to electrical- lights can be noisy;
I actually got rid of my AC conditioning boxes once I put in the dedicated lines, I thought the system sounded better without conditioning;
I’m sure there are other things I can’t thing of now, but happy to talk, I’ve been sketching out my new "room" for several years, in the process of waiting to relocate. My plan is still a separate structure and build-out from whatever house we buy or build and its electrical system, i.e. separate service to the "studio" which can also be a zoning/code issue;
Oh, structural- springy floors suck though you can deal w/ that;
noise suppression- I never thought about sound proofing, but did it for my compressor room, which is adjacent to the listening room, used mass loaded vinyl. That stuff is crazy heavy and there’s some good stuff about how to best use it if you are open to the studs.
I didn't do built in treatment in my listening room, but aftermarket bass traps, diffusion and some absorption. Mike L. probably has one of the more over the top rooms in the States and I know he's refined what he originally had done after living with it for some years, so he'd be good to talk to and is a nice fellow. 

And a comfy chair. Like the Spanish Inquisition. :)

BDP- I don't think a separate subpanel in itself offers better isolation, but where it is attached to the service line relative to the other breakers might- you need someone with better electrical chops than me;
Contrary to my earlier advice about a million separate dedicated lines, there are benefits to keeping (at least the analog stuff) on the same line if possible, to minimize the differences in grounding potential among different dedicated lines; downside, apart from current demand issues, is running a separate "distribution box" ( high quality "power strip" ala the UK style of wiring hi-fi) power with at least one more, and several longer "audiophile power cords" that, together, can be pricier than electrician wired in wall dedicated lines;
the isolation transformer is a great way to minimize electrical system crap, particularly in combination with a dedicated line; these transformers hum so where you locate it relative to your listening area is important.
good luck, have fun- these kinds of projects are pretty satisfying in the sense that you accomplish something without just buying "gear" and the improvements are well worth the investment in my estimation, even on a relatively modest level (The electrical work I had done in NY wasn't that involved or costly, and I was dealing with finished walls, not open framing in an area of the house most distant from the basement/service entrance). 
Ghost- I’ve used Albert’s outlets and they are good, in fact, I think he sells them cheaper than some of the standard Hubbells; on the pump snap, yes, I have a pretty large air compressor for my tone arm, and even the smaller one that came with it originally (a 1/2 HP Silentaire) made a NASTY snap through the signal path when the motor kicked in and out. Simply putting it on a dedicated line didn’t eliminate it, neither did an aftermarket device-- a small box-- wired into compressor motor. What saved me was an isolation transformer. No compressor pump snap over the system when that sucker kicks on (and I upgraded to a 1 HP compressor with a 13 gallon tank). You don’t even have to use "audiophile approved" ones- I have several, one is a 240 volt step down that was originally used for my home theatre (which I don’t use anymore for that), but another is a medical grade unit branded by Tripp Lite that has a 15 amp breaker- it hums, but it is my adjacent closet so with soundproofing, you don’t hear it at all. (Right now, i am only running 1 of the 2 motors, so 1/2 horsepower- when that mother kicks on with both motors, it really draws current. Not the kind of thing you normally want anywhere near an audio system).
Ghost, no if you go to the Tripp Lite home page, and search for medical isolation transformers, you will see what they offer- mine is an 1800, I think, comes with both a 20 amp and 15 amp plug. Not as cheap as the one you flagged, but not crazy money- I think around 600 US. Here it is: [url]http://www.tripplite.com/isolator-series-120v-1800w-ul60601-1-medical-grade-isolation-transformer-6-...[/url]
Yes, I realized you were talking about a heat pump that had no direct relationship to your system. Notwithstanding dedicated lines, separate subpanel, etc. there are a couple of lights and appliances in my house that when operating, can be heard through the system, and my solution is the same as yours- Don’t throw that switch! :)

bdp- somebody on the Hoffman forum had a question about subs for magneplanars, if you are a member there, would you be willing to chime in on the dipole GR/Rythmik thing? 
thank you. 
Thanks, man. It's great for rock record pressings. If you can't find the thread, i can try to find it and send you the link. Some good folks over there. 
Jea- yes, I wasn't clear - thank you, my point was when folks were saying separate panel they really meant separate service. 
For clarity, and Jea can correct me here, but I think "separate panel" means separate service from the street. I think part of this is pure electrical code which is national (and then locally implemented, correct Jea?) and part of it is zoning, e.g. if you had a guest house on your property that zoning law allowed you to rent, you could conceivably get separate service directly to that guest house- separately metered so that the renter's electrical use could be billed separately from the main house. I had a preliminary discussion a couple years ago with the electrical inspector in Austin, in contemplation of my build out. The first thing that amazed me, coming from New York, was that you could actually get the person on the phone! 
There was one property we had looked at several years ago in Austin that was a very run down piece of serious modern design- it had been used for a tech company start-up and had 400 amps of service :200 on one line, and two separate 100 amp lines coming into a single building. I have no idea how that was approved. 

Jea- yeah, i tried in NY and the local utility guy told me to get lost- i didn't say it was for audio, but we have separate buildings on this property and they still said no. I gather if I paid for it, they might reconsider, but I'm trying to get out of here. In Texas, seems a little more flexible, at least where zoning is multi-purpose. We shall see.
Folk- i use one component that has lithium battery packs, the Veloce line stage. It works great, sounds great, never an issue with charging, running time, etc. That shop in the UK that makes those oligarch speakers Living Voice?  has a battery system for audio- pretty pricey. 

Right. Sorry if I appear to have confused, rather than clarified the issue.