Solutions and Tweaks from our 2 Channel Audio journeys applied to Video / HT components?

I recently ordered a 2018 Samsung QN75Q9FN TV that comes with a 'One Connect Box.'  It houses the AC input, as well as the standard video/audio Input and Output boards/ports, etc. 

One of my reasons for choosing Samsung over the obvious competitors was this box and the ability to 'work' on it (vs. having the same / the internals within the TV frame).

For example: 

- I can see upgrading the power cord to a custom cord (vs. messing with the captive cord of the LG, for example, into the back of the frame).

- The box allows for optimization with platforms and other isolation / resonance control devices.

- Testing /  A/Bing cables will be much easier.

- Applying filters, etc. prior to the inputs will also be easier.

- etc. etc. etc....

Would love to hear what others have done and your results?

This is IN GENERAL (that is, not necessarily with the 'One Connect Box' per se).

Any other advice and cautions?

Thank you.
David... I’ve been researching the living heck out of new power chords for my entire system, including tv, and commend you for your foresight. I just realized (last night!) That my new Sony Z9D has the exact problem you avoided....power chord is hard wired to the set....uugh....God forbid I need warranty work, as I bought a 4 yr extended warranty on it.

It would be helpful were you to post your price range, and wether you want preterminated or DIY power cable. my research I came to the following on power cables For tv/Video : shielded copper rules, with benefit from long grain copper as opposed to just OFC copper, and the greatest quality enhancements from single crystal/zero crystal coppers.

1st thing I learned of tremendous value is to upgrade the power chord on your cable box...2 posts I found, the users were shocked at the improvement of their pic quality when they upgraded a lower $ aftermarket power chord on their audio equipment, and threw them on the back of their cable box for lack of anything else to do with them. A beneficial unintended consequence that they were kind enough to post.

As for what power chords ... on the less expensive end of the spectrum reviewers have been very happy, even surprised, with the depth and detail video improvements of Pangea AC 14 SE MK II. It utilizes a great combo of Cardas copper and litz for bout $60 at 1.5 meters, with double shielding and quality insulation. From my reading this is the sweet spot of pre fab hi performance at reasonable price, with all the right design mechanics in place for tv. You could start with the last generation of Pangea AC 14 SE (not MK II) for about $25-$40 to test, and then move that 1 to your cable box if you want something better on the tv. This prior gen of Pangea used PC-OCC copper from japan (instead of todays cardas copper from arizona) in a similar design pattern to the the current upgraded MKII.

Next step up... A professional reviewer commented how excellent DHLABS Power Plus 12 is for video. Not sure what the prefab price is, but the DIY price is $6ft plus terminations and shieldings/wraps/etc.

Finally, only in my mind/opinion as a derivitive hypothesis of insanely extensive reading, I believe the new Furutech FP-TCS21 would be the exceptional performer for video. But verifying from others would be smart. .. it’s not cheap at a DIY price of $31 ft plus terminations amd wraps.

Sonarquest has excellent power chord terminations for DIY at every price point. DH Labs webite sells every form of DIY wraps and insulators in all the pretty colors and patterns of varying materials.

Im placing an order for my first volley of power cables tonight and will be moving them around my system to determine where they work best after they are broken in....but it will probably be 2 months before I could honestly share my impression of what worked best where, after break in and experimentation..

Best wishes on this, and please please, post your final decisions and obaervations once you connect the end it helps everyone that comes to this thread to help others.

I've been researching the living heck out of new power chord"

 A few things about this incredibly ignorant, confused, useless post first it is power "cord" not "chord" and secondly relying on what others have "reported" is not really "research" at all if you do not in some way correlate your "findings" which are not findings but "hearsay" with what the actual result is you could do that by actually listening or you could make measurements but what you have contributed to the group here is just regurgitation and if it takes you two months to decide what happens with you're new power "chord" you are beyond confused and really should get some help!
@sfcfran  Thank you very much for your thoughtful and detailed response. It's appreciated and I will respond in more depth when I have some time to do so.
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@sfcfran To answer your questions: 

My budget for a power cord to the One Connect Box is up to 1K though I'd prefer to stay under 1K. I'm fine going with an aftermarket cable maker, but it has to be one that is open to a custom 'IEC' for the power input on the box.

If the box had a standard IEC input, I'd be more willing to spend more and also get what I currently have, the Triode Wire Labs 'The Obsession' PC (because I would be able to use it with other components in the future).

If I go with TWL then it would be their 'Digital American' PC, well under my budget.

Thanks for the brands/diy options you listed. I am open to other suggestions as well.

DIY is not an option for now, though it will make for a great project once I am able to do so.

Looking forward to your power cord journey, impressions and outcomes.