Soliloquy 6.2 Very Poor Treble .....

I have 6.2s and I agree they could use a bit more sparkle. Did David not say anything about swapping to the newer sputtered aluminum tweeter? I dont know if that would help but it could. You may even have these tweeters already?

I have been thinking of both a tweeter change and a high quality Xover. Not out of necessity though. Simply because I love to tweek =). I'll let you know if I decide on either and the results.

Without knowing your system I can only make a few general suggestions.

Another A'gon member suggested I use Analysis Plus cabling. I already was but, I can tell you these babies lost a lot of highs when I swapped the APs for transparent. I agree, try some AP cabling.

These things take forever to break in. The highs were very muted the first 250 hours or so. Have you allowed enough break in time? 500 hours plus.

The grills have a profound impact on the highs.

I love mine the mids are utterly seductive and the bass is tight and articulate.

Trelja, I had the back off my 6.2s a few days ago. There are two crossover boards. One attached to the front inside of the box and another to the removable plate on the back of the speaker. The Crossover on the plate is marked "tweeter" it definitely has a sizable air coil and what appears to be a large resistor contained in a rectangular plastic box ...and if memory serves me correctly, there was what appeared to be a second large capacitor/resistor (dime diameter about 3/4 inch long). Retrospectively that seems odd.

Could you advise further from this simplistic description? I too am interested in getting a bit more sparkle from my 6.2s.

I strongly Boa's recommendation. Allow the speakers enough time. As a 6.2 owner, I can assure you there will be more treble after 500 hours. Give 'em some volume too.

I dont believe the Aurum is a drop in fit. Its spec sheet shows a 110mm overall diameter. The counter sunk opening in my pair of 6.2's is only 103mm or 4 5/16 inchs.

Trelja, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. I inspected the crossover for the tweeter with greater scrutiny. My memory is cruel to me indeed. In fact, there are six components on the tweeter board with a rather confounding wiring pattern.

There are three rectangular resistors. All have values printed on top. The large black and yellow Cap I previously mentioned, a much smaller black and yellow Cap(?) 1/4" in diameter and 1.5" long, and an air core inductor. The Caps and Inductor do not have values (Microfarad and miliohms, Right?) I cant seem to locate the Ohm symbol so I will write ohm in its stead.

A 10w6.2ohmJ resistor is feed Positive in (from amp) then to the large Cap then to the coil which then splits and goes to the Negative tweeter terminal and the Negative Amplifier in. This seems odd to me. But I digress, my knowledge in this area is extremely limited.

The large Cap has two other leads. One leads to another resistor (10w15ohmJ) which then goes to the Positive tweeter terminal..

The other feeds the smaller Cap then another resistor (10w4ohmJ) and the positive tweeter terminal as well.

So which resistor should I jump? ....or should I just go watch some preseason Football and shut my pie hole?

Autospec, thanks so much letting me use your thread =)

Trelja, what a fun experiment. I jumped the 15ohm and just as you surmised, that was too much. I tried jumping the 6.2ohm and that was a bit too much as well. Jumping only the 4 ohm is noticeable but not too much. I have left the jumpers in place and sewn up the patient. I'll let it be for a few sessions.

The small Cap is combined with the 15 ohm Resistor at the Inductor. So any attempt to bypass it (Small Cap) mandates a bypass of the 15 ohm Resistor as well. Since they are combined at the coil and then rejoined at the positive tweeter terminal. Does this sound like a Zobel?

Trelja, thanks so much for all your help. This may have been the most productive and informative thread I have participated in to date! ...and fun too!

Good morning Guys.

Autospec check out this site http://www.apicsllc.com/apics/Misc/filter2.html it contains some really good stuff.

Reverse engineering the circuit, it appears we have a 2nd order Xover, an L-Pad, and a Zobel all wrapped into one... and somewhat mixed about but I suppose the specific order isnt all that important.

How did yor sound change Autospec? Better?

I am absolutely confounded by this...

Question #1. Dont both L-Pads or Zobel networks require a resistor to be wired in parallel?

All the resistors in this crossover are in series. Unless you count the first one. The first component, a 6.2ohm resistor, is wired to a large Cap which has three leads one of which goes to the Coil, which is parallel. Another lead goes to a smaller Cap which feeds the tweeter positive, therefore making this a 3rd order high pass. But wait theres more, a third lead from the aforementioned large Cap also feeds a 15ohm resistor, which also feeds the tweeter positive, making this a 2nd order and a 3rd order. My head hurts! ...or is this some kind of series matching network? [Q. 1(a)]

So question #2. Since the Coil is parallel and a resistor feeds it via a Cap. Would that resistor be parallel or equivalent to parallel?

...or am I just all wrong? If so, please set me free!

Trelja, Good morning. Yes, I can email you a picture. It may be Friday before I get a chance to fiddle again. Tonight I must rack and bottle at least 75 bottles of Bordeaux. Can you say, sore back! ...and then I promised a friend, my Wife and I would have Sushi with Him and his new girlfriend. I'll shoot you a quick note through the A'gon system tonight. If you reply then I'll attach the pic and reply directly to you. Would you prefer a certain resolution?

The Coil on the Tweeter network is absolutely parallel. It attaches to one of the three positive leads coming from the large Cap and is wired directly to the negative post from the Amp, which in turn has a jumper soldered directly to the negative post from the Tweeter.

There is one Cap (identically sized to the Tweeter Cap FWIW), a somewhat larger gauge and winding Air Coil, and one 4 ohm Ceramic Resistor on the Midwoofer Board. The Coil is absolutely in series. My memory is saying, that the Midwoofer Cap and Resistor were in series on the negative leg with the Coil in series on the positive leg. Clearly my memory failed me badly last time, so I need to reaffirm this. I'll draw this circuit next time too.

Autospec, I tried jumping all the Resistors. The 15ohm Resistor added alot of treble, too much for me. The 6.2 was a little hot as well. The 4ohm seemed best. Also, jumping only the small Cap had a profound effect on "sparkle" without allowing the lower treble ranges to come to far forward. I would give that a try too.

I thought I would post a follow up to my experiments with the crossover here so it could be archived for the future.

First off, thanks so much to Trelja. I really learned a lot from him. After analyzing my Xover circuit he helped me find just the right tweak to achieve the desired results. He is truly a gentleman and a great resource to the A'gon community.

After trying several jumps in the Xover with results each time. I finally decided to jump the 4ohm resistor with a quality 2ohm. This has added just the right amount of air. Its not permanent and to be honest, with more and more time on them (about 750 hours now), it may be that the stock configuration may be the most suitable.

Autospec, I hope you got your 6.2s sounding to your liking.