So done with audiophile fuses


The journey started with a medium priced ($50) fuse in my power supply.  A failed rectifier tube blew that one out.  Not a fuse problem.  Next up was a blue fuse in my pre amp.  It blew and was not caused by a pre amp problem.  Apparently they sometimes are more sensitive and it was replaced by an orange fuse two values higher.  Things were going along fine.  I replaced the pre amp with a newer version of the pre amp and it has the same fuse value.  Five months latter (today) I turn on the pre amp and nothing.  it's a five month old pre amp so I suspected that it was the fuse.  Sure enough, I replaced it with a ceramic Littelfuse of the lower correct value it works fine.  No more wasting my money on unstable fuses for me.     
goose

Showing 4 responses by molingus

Ahem. In what 3rd world country do you all live where shorting a fuse in an audio amp starts your hovel on fire? Move into the modern world, where our buildings have code, and our breaker boxes have, uhhh, breakers installed.
As for your insanely expensive amp, yeah, that's going to release its magic smoke, and be worthless, but you'll still have a shanty in which to keep it.
Okay, here's some constructive criticism, based on the assumption that, in order to sound remotely palatable, audiophile grade amps need AC mains to supply perfect platonic ideal archetypical sine waves, like god's flatulence. Of course, they don't, and neither do the designs engineers learn in their first year of school, but still, let's assume. So you've spent all that money on power cords, and line conditioners, and power supplies, and magic orange wall outlets, and you've paid your neighbors to not use their air conditioner just long enough so you can finally, for once, enjoy the overture to Reinze like they could when it was written 150 years ago. Every last drop of that perfect current has to travel across the impure little filament of the fuse before it can be DC rectified by your device. You do know that your amp doesn't even want your alternating sine wave, right? It's got a built-in plan to convert that swill to DC, first and foremost, right? But I digress.
What are you going to do? After all that, a fuse made of any less than 17.6% pure unobtanium will ruin all your plans, waste all that money, and you'll probably die alone.
Start to demand filtered power supplies with the fuse *before* the filter. That way, it shouldn't matter if you used braided silver, or ordinary nickel, or one of those turds someone, for some reason, seems to be advocating. 
And, ummm, if your amp blows a fuse more than once, it's trying to tell you it doesn't feel so good inside. The engineers who designed it did lots of math to determine how much current the thing should draw, and how much is too much, then they put a fuse in there to burn up before your tubes, transistors, and worst of all, your transformers burn. For cripes sake, DO NOT short it out, or put anything else but what the engineers calculated! TAKE IT TO THE AMP DOCTOR!!! Putting a higher amperage fuse is saying, "Something's wrong with this machine, it's using more power than it can safely handle. Maybe if I feed it even MORE power, I'll never need to have it serviced," and you might end up being correct. And the engineers who built it will be sad, and the salesperson you buy it's replacement from will be stoked. And that's really what this game is about, right? Happy sales people.
Will the manufacturer gladly replace the 50 cent fuse sold for $hundred$
Not if they're smart, they won't. They should have an official policy of not recommending anything other than the manufacturer's rated part, which is always clearly marked on the device. Even if I was selling 50 cent fuses for 75 cents, I'd have literature clearly stating that using the wrong value voids any warranty. Maybe I'd send you a  coupon, two fuses for only $1.65, and better looking, I mean, better luck next time, kid.