All the major cables provide and internal bi-wire option which is what you're asking for. No problem. |
Almost all bi wire cables come the way you speak. If both end had 4 wires, it would be for bi amping in most respects. |
Thank you for that. I will do some more research.
From the photos I looked at on some major cable websites,
I only saw biwired cables with 4-wires on each end of each cable. I didn't see an internal biwire option,
or any distinction between bi-amping and bi-wiring.
I just hate stacking spaded-connections on one post.
When I did that once for jumpers, they would occasionally
detach themselves. |
It's also possible to have externally bi-wired cables, two lengths of cable going to each speaker, with the two cables joined at one end so that you have only one set of spade terminals at the amp. I've owned Dh Labs and Silverline cables configured that way. |
Thanks for that Sfar. I may look into that with my Cardas GR. |
If you like your Cardas cables, before buying anything else, you should try a high quality (like Cardas) set of jumpers on the speakers. Run the speaker cables to the MF/HF posts on your speakers, and then jump to the LF posts(or try it both ways and do what sounds best). Instead of stacking the spades, you might try finding jumpers with spades on one end and bananas on the other. That way you can attach the bananas to the posts with the main (spade terminated) speaker wires. If your jumpers have spades on both ends, try some Cardas bananas connected to the spade on one end of the jumpers and plugged into the post with the spade termination. BTW, if you decide to purchase something, there are many internally (and externally) bi-wired cables that terminate with a single set of spades at the amp end (as others have said above). Do a search under cables - speaker, here on Audiogon. |
Another option would be for you to construct your own jumpers. It is easy to make a set of jumpers that should perform just fine, and since the length is generally a foot or less, the effect of that wire IMO is about nil, assuming the wire you use is of sufficient gauge (12-14 awg should be fine for the short run) and at least as good as the internal hook-up wire inside the speaker. You can order single crystal copper hook-up wire from Partsconnexion, VH Audio or others, or even actual speaker cable by the foot, and make up your own high quality set of jumpers using spades at one end and bananas at the other. If you are not comfortable with soldering, there are several really good spade and banana models that have compression terminations using set screws. I have Furutech spades with compression terminations, and I believe the highly rated Bocchino Audio connectors also use that method of termination (see the CRL website). If you are using copper wire, some cover the connection using Q-dope, silicon, or other compounds to resist exposure to air and potential corrosion. Many would think using high quality heat shrink over the connected part of the spade should be fine. You will need 4 spades, 4 bananas, 4 feet of wire or cable, and some heat shrink. |
Mitch--thanks for all that info! I do have the Cardas jumpers,
so I'll try those. I know that there are several discussions here about how to orient the jumpers, and with my former Von Schwiekert speakers I had better results with the stacked spades on the LF terminal, contrary to most things I've read (clearer, less foggy bass; highs were fine and liquid with that nice VSR Revelator tweeter). The problem is I have a long run of speaker cable (> 20 feet), so new cables are expensive, and my Cardas are well broken in (I've had them for several years, and I bought them new) and I hate to let them go. I'll take a big loss if I sell them. So I'll see what I hear with the jumpers. Thanks again to Mitch and everyone else who chimed in here. |
Good luck with your trial. If you like the sound but do not like stacking spades, I would bet Cardas would be happy to reterminate one end of your jumpers with bananas. |
Ive actually been thinking on this, how can a speaker be truely internally bi wired? This would mean they would have to touch on the inside of the posts, this would result in cross talk just the same as if you used jumpers on the outside of dual posts. This is why I dont get bi wire, it seams useless. Even with a standard bi wire cable(2 one side, 4 on the other) on dual posts, they are still touching each other at the amp, making cross talk(would take a little longer to reach the giant loop I guess, I would actually think that would make it even more un acurate of a sound(doesnt current travel both ways?). The only advantage I can see is bi amping, and that can lead to problems as well, such as unequal/unblanced signals. You would definatley want something like a bryston 8bsst or 4 channel amp to take full advantage of bi amping.Any opinions on this. |
Yep, it is conceptually messy as long as thing come together at any point, but I'm no electrical engineer here. I was told to avoid internal biwired cables. Any thoughts? Thanks. |
There are multiple factors, such as how the crossover boards are implemented within the speaker, how the bi-wire cables are set up, and others. Some internally bi-wired cables simply split the number of wires between LF and MF/HF, while others double the wires inside of their bi-wired cables, like with my Purist Venustas. Other manufacturers offer double bi-wire cables that have two separate runs terminated together at the amp end, and some do that while using different gauge wires for LF than for MF/HF. For more info, you might look here:http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/biwiring.htm |
OK, thanks for that again. |
Other manufacturers offer double bi-wire cables that have two separate runs terminated together at the amp end, and some do that while using different gauge wires for LF than for MF/HF
This is what Im talking about, its still a giant loop, right? They are still all connected after the amp.I may be wrong but thats what it appears as. |
Sthomas12321, the article I referenced above may help answer your questions. |
