Single driver speakers - opinions

You would laugh if I told you what I use and would never even bother trying it if I did.
For me, the most practical "single driver" design is a standard cabinet and full range from 40hz-5-8,000hz with a supertweeter above that. Better than adding the sub, or sub and S-T, or horn, or OB designs.

Transmission line is also a possibility if you want more bass.

You have to live with single driver for a while. Then listen to multi-way to appreciate the degradation in sound.
Also I am not getting any H-F boost. That is more a characteristic of high efficiency single driver.
A small room is helpful to boost the bass.
I would not go over 4" as they become too directional when larger than that IMHO.

I get confused with S-D phase angles but even S-D apparently change phase.
Here is one Jordan JX-92 so I don't know if they are as good as they claim.

What effect does this have on the sound/ Maybe Atmasphere will know.

Also people have noted that a ported S-D will not be coherent as the port is also out of phase. I don't know if this is true or not either.

Here are a couple of examples of small driver but still reasonable bass if volume is not too loud:
Sampan

Sampan FTL

The F200 by Bob Brines that I heard was very rough in the H-F and also required notch filter for nasty breakup. Any cheap $5.00 tweeter would beat it, IMHO. I would need more clarity to understand how every 4 inch is worse than any 8 inch, except for bass and dynamics, of course.
Take a good 4", use it in a small room, treated with C37 and EnABL'd and you have something very close to "audiophile" quality bass flat into the 40's. Again IMHO. Plus much better dispersion and soundstage than any eight inch. Horses for courses I guess.

JohnK "This modded drivers just a way for a schmuck to make a buck..."
Okay, you think I'm a smuck. But maybe you should add "IMHO" 'cause just maybe, not everyone thinks the same about me.

Johnk "Cdc just how many 8in full range designs have you've owned?"
None, as for the money, none have impressed me enough to purchase. That would be stupid to pay good money for something that does not sound good just to satisfy your "qualification" that you require, IMHO.

JohnK "And slapping a coating on a cheap driver doesn't make it better "
Very insightful. Anything more intelligent to add than that?

JohnK "More weight on cone might lower bass but would reduce treble, midrange, reduce peak SPL ,driver is now slower"
Nope, treble HF extension actually increased, not decreased. Do you know MarkMcK at DIYaudio? He has also increased HF extension by adding strategically placed dots on drivers.
So maybe you should be more careful in what you say. Especially when it's in a nasty, arrogant, I know it all manor, IMHO.

JohnK "And since its 8in can play much louder and lower"
Agreed, and if that's what you define as better, you are right.

JohnK "Many who can not afford the good stuff delude themselves into thinking what they purchased is better. Good for the ego but bad for others when this wrong info gets passed about as fact"
Is this is a personal attack directed at me because you think I am too poor to afford a more expensive system? Nice guy. Sounds like you have the ego problem.
You can say the same thing for people who spend big bucks for a speaker like an F200 driver. Like:
"Many who can afford the good stuff delude themselves into thinking what they purchased is better. Good for the ego but bad for others when this wrong info gets passed about as fact"
And people who spend big $$ are much more likely to have the big ego IMHO. How can I possibly have a big ego with my humble rig? More like a lesson in humiltiy than ego.

While you're being so technical please explain how an 8" soundstages better than a 3"?
Please show me how the Fostex 8" has a smoother FR over 3-5K than, say a Jordan JX-92. Or even this $6.00 Dayton ND16FA-6
Compared to Fostex F200 F200
Please show me how the Fostex is better in the HF than the $6.00 Dayton tweeter.

JohnK "Cdc You've decided that 4in c37 are the best. "

I never said this. If I said something to get you upset, I apologize. You have a wealth of knowledge and I would rather share it.

You then quote me as saying "you said no 8in is close to 4in in performance "
Again, I never said this. Rather I asked you "I would need more clarity to understand how every 4 inch is worse than any 8 inch, except for bass and dynamics, of course."
Not sure why you are taking what I wrote out of context.

JohnK "Seems you like to add things never said but imagined."
Nope, that's what you are doing. I don't know why.
I have taken direct quotes from your posts and responded. I have enjoyed your posts and advice in the past.
JohnK "You say I am a know it all,"
Once again, I never said this either. I was referring to your tone. Hardly a "helpful" tone as you say you are trying to help me.

For me, the funky soundstaging of an 8", whether Fostex or $14,000 Tannoy Westminster, and the rough HF of the Brines F200, is just as distracting as the loss of dynamics of a 4". That's why I would like to hear a good 4" T-L design. I think it would be the best of both worlds.

You do know a lot and I would much rather have you explain stuff like phase of SD speakers as I showed in Jordan's link.
Thanks

Gawdbless, I agree, I would like to benefit from his wealth of knowledge than get blasted by it.

Thanks John. I'll second that Jeff.