Single driver full range speakers

Several folks have recommended adding a sub, and that’s a proven way to add bass. For several years I used a Martin Logan Dynamo with my 6.5-inch FR diy speakers. But a few months ago I built a Nelson Pass -designed EQ module designed for FR speakers, plugged it in and I no longer use the sub. Go to diyAudio store.com and look for it. As I recall, Pass even posted a few customizations for particular drivers. It’s an easy project and surprisingly effective. Cheers.

I know Louis at Omega Speakers used to make a full range tower with an integrated powered sub at the bottom. I heard they were great. I personally use full range speakers, but almost always with a separate powered sub. You can use a powered sub's phase control to really dial it in and integrate it properly. 

I like the idea of an active crossover. With one in place, you could always add a third speaker set, something smaller for a tweeter? If you wanted to bi-amp or tri-amp.

Below is the link to the one I’ve always wanted to try. 100% analog. Also, you can buy new frequency X/O cards for $12 bucks apiece, so lots of experimentation for little added cost.

https://sublimeacoustic.com/products/k231-stereo-3-way-active-crossover?variant=27880714185&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOoq_oebLkKmABXDeS7PUQ7uTk63NJKByFp3XZKGLTtbmGd3AfNiLInI&com_cvv=8fb3d522dc163aeadb66e08cd7450cbbdddc64c6cf2e8891f6d48747c6d56d2c

If you have a "full range" speaker. Look at the specification sheet the for that woofer. If it states the range 20hz to 20khz it is full range. A speaker would still be decent at 32hz to 20khz in the right cabinet because it could roll off slowly to near 20 hz and still be supurb. 

The cabinet for the speaker would need to go off manufacturer parameters for the speakers specifications in order to deliver that full range. You would need to know something about building a robust cabinet for that size. Then experiment with padding inside to Taylor the sound you want. Your ears will tell you. If you are technical, you can measure the frequency range. You can get terminal kits from parts express or other sources.

I am a user of ESL Speakers, Floor Standing 3 x Driver Ported Cabinet Speakers and a Single Full Range Driver Transmission Line Design for the Cabinet.

The Floor Standing 3 x Driver Ported Cabinet Speakers, in comparison are the most coloured out of the selection, but compared to other Speakers sharing similar Cabinet Design, these are quite uncoloured as the comparison outcome, and are many many steps closer to what the ESL can create, than other Ported Cabinet experienced  designs used in the home system have been capable of.

Ported Cabinet Designs seemingly need substantial Cabinet Structures to tame the energies that effect the End Sound produced. The owned Ported Speakers requires 2 x People to handle, where risk of injury or damaging a Speaker is best managed.  

Designs of Speaker and Sensitivity of Speaker will limit partnering devices to drive them. My Speakers range between 83dB - 106dB which is woefully inefficient to uber efficient. 

The 83dB speakers are not usually receiving more than 20 Watts Power from an Amp, which is to change as a 60 Watt SS Amp' is loaned and awaiting its use. The TL's are 106dB Speakers and receiving 5 Watts as the lowest.

I have not got a prejudice or bias against any of the End Sounds that are being produced.

The Link between 8 minutes - 12 minutes might offer a description that helps explain why such differences to designs are able to create a Parity Impression, when End Sound is being evaluated. 

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEISMePiDcg&t=513s