Single driver full range speakers


Hi,
I am a simple home hobbiest. I've built an great sounding full range single speaker set (so no cross-over,, and that's the point. I don't want a x-over).
But of course it lacks terribly in bass. Is it possible (is it commonly done?) to add a woofer into the cabinet with no cross-over (again, simple straight wire to amp). Would it require wiring in parallel or series?

Currently each speaker has one TangBand W8-1808 full range 8" driver and sounds very good.

Thanks in advance, I really would like to know if this is possible (safe?) to do.
Rob

tunehead

Hi OP

I have encountered the same question to me by another audiophile friend, as some have posted above, the speaker I was asked my opinion was a Reference 3A De Cappo driven by JELabs 300B. those are a wonderful match but lacking lower bass power to the owner. IMHO, I thought the bass was good enough. but everyone hears differently and have their personal wants

therefore, after months to trying different things, he ended up with an external powered sub(s). nothing can be done any better. in your case, you can try different enclosures in your BASS drivers. BUT again, in IMHO, using external powered subs, you can Taylor the power output and the crossover.

MY last idea is to build a woofer enclosure, power it up with Class D amps and use a DSP (ex MiniDSP) to custom tailor the frequency match to your open baffle speakers

 

good luck

Several folks have recommended adding a sub, and that’s a proven way to add bass. For several years I used a Martin Logan Dynamo with my 6.5-inch FR diy speakers. But a few months ago I built a Nelson Pass -designed EQ module designed for FR speakers, plugged it in and I no longer use the sub. Go to diyAudio store.com and look for it. As I recall, Pass even posted a few customizations for particular drivers. It’s an easy project and surprisingly effective. Cheers.

I know Louis at Omega Speakers used to make a full range tower with an integrated powered sub at the bottom. I heard they were great. I personally use full range speakers, but almost always with a separate powered sub. You can use a powered sub's phase control to really dial it in and integrate it properly. 

I like the idea of an active crossover. With one in place, you could always add a third speaker set, something smaller for a tweeter? If you wanted to bi-amp or tri-amp.

Below is the link to the one I’ve always wanted to try. 100% analog. Also, you can buy new frequency X/O cards for $12 bucks apiece, so lots of experimentation for little added cost.

https://sublimeacoustic.com/products/k231-stereo-3-way-active-crossover?variant=27880714185&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOoq_oebLkKmABXDeS7PUQ7uTk63NJKByFp3XZKGLTtbmGd3AfNiLInI&com_cvv=8fb3d522dc163aeadb66e08cd7450cbbdddc64c6cf2e8891f6d48747c6d56d2c

 

 

If you have a "full range" speaker. Look at the specification sheet the for that woofer. If it states the range 20hz to 20khz it is full range. A speaker would still be decent at 32hz to 20khz in the right cabinet because it could roll off slowly to near 20 hz and still be supurb. 

The cabinet for the speaker would need to go off manufacturer parameters for the speakers specifications in order to deliver that full range. You would need to know something about building a robust cabinet for that size. Then experiment with padding inside to Taylor the sound you want. Your ears will tell you. If you are technical, you can measure the frequency range. You can get terminal kits from parts express or other sources.