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Should I keep the Turntable or sell it?

I’ve been back and forth on this decision for about a month, and the more I learn, the harder this decision gets.

Backstory: I won the brand new Cambridge Audio Alva TT turntable in an online contest in mid-May, and while it sounds great, I decided to list it for sale a couple weeks ago. I’ve always wanted to try out a Rega P6 or P3 with a really nice cart, because I feel like I’m not getting enough out of my Pro-Ject Debut Carbon. Prior to winning the Alva TT, I switched the Red Ortofon out for the Blue, and there was a great improvement in sound quality. But after comparing the Pro-Ject to the Alva TT and hearing what a $1700 turntable can sound like, I definitely am interested in exploring more high fidelity turntables. The issue is that I feel like I prefer the sound of tubes over solid state, and the Alva TT uses an integrated Alva Duo phono preamp for the RCA out, and their own DAC for the Bluetooth out if I want to go that route. I don’t have a ton of experience with tubes, and maybe it’s just the “cool factor” I actually like and I’m just having a placebo effect.

So I decided to list it for sale to try and get a Rega, because I heard so many great things about them. But over the last week or so, I’ve learned more about the Alva TT and how it uses Rega’s famous tonearm. I looked up the cart and it is listed at $500 separately, which is probably why it sounds better than the Pro-Ject w/ Ortofon Blue. I’ve also read on these boards about direct drive being better than belt, which the Alva has as well. It also has the added bonus of Bluetooth that go directly to my KEF LS50 Wireless, but I would most likely just use interconnects.

So I would love to get some advice from you all. I’ve gone back and forth about keeping the Alva or selling it, along with my Pro-Ject Debut Carbon, and buying/trading for something like a Rega P3 or P6. If you had my first world problem, what would you do?
bignamehere

Showing 2 responses by helomech

helomech
1,769 posts
 
There's no use in debating anything with the direct-drive zealots. 

The reality is there are many good approaches to analog sound. Every approach produces a unique sonic signature because each material has different resonance properties. Whether a plinth is constructed of MDF or a zinc alloy will affect its sound, as will the tonearm and platter material. No table is exclusively neutral. 

As for direct-drive always being superior, that claim is complete BS. There are many belt-drive designs that allow for adjustable speed, and with stability that's just as stable as a Technics, they just tend to cost more - probably double the price of a GR on average. I'm talking tables from the likes of SME, Acoustic Signature, AMG, GemDandy, Palmer (not the typical $2K VPI or Rega). 

As for Technics being the best value out there, I suppose they could be, however, that might depend on you getting a good example. Some have received examples with warped platters, like in this video:

https://youtu.be/TmpsJ3009CE

I can tell you the warp in that vid is far worse than what I had with a Pioneer PLX1000. There are multiple reports of this problem around the web. And one guy went through at least two 1200Gs before he received one with a quiet platter bearing. So even the venerable Technics brand, with its much-lauded Japanese manufacturing, is not immune to QC problems. 

Now compare that platter runout/warp to that of a Brinkmann or Acoustic Signature and tell me the Technics still produces the better W&F spec - laughable.
helomech
1,769 posts
 
I’m not on the Audiogon Forum much. I get a weekly email titled Weekly Recap which has some of the top discussions of the past week, I guess.

I was very intrigued by this thread because I’ve had a Bluenote Bellavista Signature turntable for about ten years now.

I’ve replaced the U3 tonearm with a suped-up Rega RB300. Incognito wiring, Pete Riggle VTA on-the-fly adjustment and Michell counter weight.
Don’t think I can live without the on-the-fly Vta anymore. I found the unipivot a little to squirrely for me.

I recently had to replace the motor because the original crapped out. Luckily Goldnote (which Bluenote is now) had one left in their old inventory. I also got an original belt which is essentially a giant O-ring.

Anyhow, I noticed that it runs pretty much right on at 331/3 rpm but when I go to 45 rpm it runs fast. I’ve tried everything to get it to run correct at both speeds. The Bluenote uses a hollow belt spindle with a threaded insert that can be screwed in or out for minor adjustments of speed (it makes the belt spindle bigger or smaller). My thought was that if it’s right on at 331/3 rpm then when I move the belt to the 45 rpm spindle groove it should be right on or close without having to make a speed adjustment to the spindle insert. It doesn’t and won’t, even if I try to adjust the speed using the spindle insert.

I hope I explained that well enough to understand because a lot of folks are not familiar with this turntable.

Because of this problem and not being able to rectify it I’ve been thinking about a new turntable and I’ve been a little drawn to the Technics because at this point I just want something that RUNS AT THE CORRECT SPEED.

It bothers me to no end that I know the speed is off. Even at 33 1/3 sustained piano notes sound like they’re slightly out of tune (maybe that’s just my imagination?). 45 rpm just doesn’t sound right at all (definitely not my imagination).

I’ve been wavering back and forth on which way to go.

A belt drive with speed controller or just an all-in-one DD such as the Technics.

Remember, it has to have on-the-fly/easy VTA adjustment.

Thanks in advance, Nick.

P.s. I won’t jump on anyone for their suggestions even if they’re a so-called "fan-boy". Not that there’s anything wrong with that. :-)
There are many belt-drive tables out there with adjustable speed that will stay locked at the set RPM. A few that come immediately to mind: Rega P8, Acoustic Signature Wow XL (and every model above), and the Gem Dandy Polytable Super12. These are just a few of the more affordable ones. Once you get into Palmer/SME/AMG territory, nearly all have adjustable pitch with some type of speed lock. You invest in a KAB SpeedStrobe and you’re good to go. My table has adjuatable pitch in 0.1% increments and according to the SpeedStrobe, it holds speed within 0.03% of perfect. The controller keeps it stored in the memory so it need not be adjusted again unless I adjust cartridge setup.

Now keep in mind that speed accuracy is a moving target, because not all laquers are cut at a perfect 33.3 or 45. From what I’ve researched, few are cut at a speed any more accurate than that of a budget turntable.

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