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setting azimuth on VPI turntables

I purchased a VPI Scoutmaster a few weeks ago, being unenthusiatic over the sound, I was considering selling up until last night.

I had been over cartridge setup for this table a number of times, getting overhang, alignment, azimuth, VTF, and VTA just right. Still, things were not sounding all that good.

I had previously purchased the Fremer DVD so I did know about setting up this table optimally. I surmised the rod method of setting azimuth, as instructed in the VPI manual, was not optimal and part of the culprit in non-involving sound.

I finally got around to purchasing a DMM with a low enough AC voltage scale the other day. After much trial and error I finally got a crosstalk differential of less than 1%, a miracle with this setup. Setting azimuth on this table is a real PITA, everytime I got azimuth within specs, VTF went out of balance.

Eventually I got it right, the payoff in sound was way big time! Center image is now 'locked in', way more solid and dimensional. Images are also now floating free of the physical speaker, spaciousness, air in spades, a much more organic sound.

Having heard some complain about this table's uninvolving nature and lack of musicality prompted me to post this thread. I suspect many have not had their table set up correctly, because I certainly heard what they were talking about prior to getting azimuth 'locked in'. VPI owners, it is absolutely necessary to set azimuth electronically, the rod method in not nearly good enough! Get a proper DMM or get someone knowledgable to set up your table, you just might be in for a big surprise!

Vinyl setup:
VPI Scoutmaster, non-signature, Valhalla wired arm wand in near future
Dynavector 20XL
Cayin Phono One
DIY wall shelf using 3" thick maple
Bright Star Big Rock, going to try Gingko 11 in near future
SDS and ring clamp coming soon
sns

Showing 1 response by rateourmover

rateourmover
27 posts
 
I've only just discovered this thread and will now buy a DMM. I've never felt comfortable with the rod as, using it means I have to allow for its weight on VTF (which then usually messes up my azimuth setting) - or set azimuth statically which takes centripetal out of an equation it surely must be in?
SO - A QUESTION (if there is anyone still out there...)
My understanding is anti-skate mechanisms are used to negate the centripetal force - but this varies across the record. Hence, in part, HW's assertion one anti-skate setting isn't The Answer. However, that same varying (residual) force tends to cause a cartridge in a unipivot to lean a little. Doesn't this mean the azimuth will also vary across the disc - and negate our search for extreme accuracy of azimuth, landing us back in compromise territory? If I'm right where on the disc is azimuth best set as a compromise? Centre, edge, middle??
Or am I speaking Horlicks here?
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