Set-Up Advice for Vandersteen 1Cs


I'm beginning to piece together a system and having previously owned a pair of Vendersteen 1Bs back in the late 90's before I sold all my equipment I purchased a pair used 1Cs for $299 and $80 shipping... hopefully this was a good price.

I have a small apartment and these will be in the living room with the TV and I would like the sound from my TV, Cable, Apple TV or Roku 3, Blu-Ray, a DAC connected to my ipad/iphone/macbook pro, and eventually a turntable to be able to play through this system. I plan I have zero interest in a surround sound system, so multichannel is not a concern.

My understanding is that I should probably get an HDMI switch with audio out since things like the Apple TV and Roku 3 don't have audio out and I'll want the audio from those to play through the system. This area is new to me so any advice here would be greatly appreciated.

To complicate things I would LIKE to have a tube amp if possible. I am willing to go solid state, but I would much much prefer tube.

My budget is somewhere in the $500-$750 range. I am planning on buying used equipment to get the most bang for my buck. Something with a phono input would be best, but obviously I can't have everything.

I've been completely out of the loop and this was totally a spur of the moment purchase for me but I don't have a tremendous amount of time or disposable income so I'm looking to greater minds than my own for assistance.
greatwhitebat

Showing 8 responses by zd542

If the speakers are in good shape and came with the bases, you got a very good deal. I sold mine a few years ago and got over $500 plus shipping. Just follow the setup instructions in the manual and you should have no problems getting great sound.

For the rest of it, I would keep it simple. Keep the audio and video separate. Any gear that is designed for more than 2 channels would be a waste. Starting with video, if your TV has enough HDMI inputs for all of your sources, you're done. If not, just buy a switcher.

For audio, I'll recommend something a little different. I would start off with a good quality solid state integrated. In your price range, I like NAD because they give you a lot of options. Even though its not tube, it will still sound very good. What makes NAD somewhat unique is that the amp and preamp sections are connected externally with rca jumpers. This allows you to use it just as an amp, or just as a preamp. So when you go to upgrade, you can just by one piece at a time. The NAD also has phono, remote, dac options.... and other features you may need.
"I'm not sure I understand. I don't want multichannel. I just want 2 channel, but I do want to get the audio from my video devices to my system because I definitely won't have space for two systems and I don't want to purchase a sound bar or just use the built in speakers on the TV."

I know you don't want multichannel. My recommendation was for 2 channel equipment. For example, if you have a dvd player, you run a video cable from that directly to your TV (or switcher), and send the audio to the integrated amp (or whatever you decide to go with for audio).
"The issue with this is that some of the components on the video side do not have seperate audio/video cables. They have HDMI output only. I'm trying to find a solution for that that gets the HDMI passed through to the TV and the audio to the amp without making a mess of the audio first."

I didn't realize that was the issue. Most TV's have audio outputs. You can just go from the out on the TV to one of the inputs on your pre/integrated. You'll still be able to bypass the speaker on your TV.
"I have been looking at the amps from china and one big question is how low powered can I go on these?"

Pretty much as low as you want. The 1C's are very easy to drive. You would have no problem with a well made 20-30 watt/channel tube amp as long as the room isn't too big and/or the volume too loud. From the 2's up, you would probably want more power but not so with the 1's.

If you haven't had a chance to listen to them yet, you're in for a pleasant surprise. I put my 1's next to some very well regarded speakers that cost a lot more and thought the Vandersteen beat them easily. The cheapest speaker that I could find that I like better are the 2's.
You need 2 things to set your speakers up properly. The stands and the owners manual. There's no way you are going to get it right otherwise. If the seller didn't include the manual, you can download it from Vandersteen's web site. Read through it and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. Just follow the formula he gives you. From inside edge to inside edge 6 feet apart is a good starting point. You can go a little wider if you have to. As far as the amp goes, you're OK for power. If you had a pair of 2's, you could make a case for more power, but the 1's just don't need it.

"I feel like I need to bring them closer together, probably around 55-60 inches apart because the soundstage sounds very thin in the middle and pulled out toward the edges."

Once you get the speakers higher up on the stands and set the back tilt, that problem will go away. Also, if you bought a new amp, its probably not broken in yet. Make sure you get at least 100 hours on it before you do any serious listening.
"05-22-14: Timrhu
Be careful with the tilt. I found very little tilt worked best for me with both the 1Cs and the 2CEs. Discovered this after setting tilt and noting how much better they sounded when I was standing in front of my chair. I straightened up the speakers until they sounded best when seated. Still some tilt, just not too much.
I would think the 40 watts is plenty unless you are really cranking them."

Did you use the formula in the manual? If you set everything just right, it should sound OK as long as you don't have other problems like a bad room, or your head is too close to the rear wall.

" Are you biwiring them? If not, you need to or you won't get everything out of them that you want."

You can' biwire the 1's.
"05-22-14: Ctsooner
I assumed the 1's could be biwired. When you hear Richard himself talk about wiring, it's very interesting. His speakers definitely need to be biwired or you'll lose what you paid for. That's a must and anyone will tell you that."

I think you took my post the wrong way. I just pointed out that you can't biwire the 1's. There's only one set of binding posts. Aside from that, I agree. I run 2 sets of speaker cables on all my Vandersteen's. And the difference is not subtle.
"Yep I used the manual. Don't recall it being specific about the amount of tilt. No substitute for dialing it in with listening though. The stand up, sit down test is very revealing if there is too much tilt."

If you go through the manual, its the part where you hang a string off the back of the speaker (you tie something to the end of the string like a nut to keep it straight). Once the string settles, you measure the distance between the string and the bottom of the base of the speaker. That's your back tilt. How much is determined by all of the other setup factors, so you should know beforehand how much you will need. I think the last time, for me was about 1/2 an inch. If I were to move things around, though, I would have to set the tilt again to account for the changes. I know some people use a lazer level but the string is easy enough that I don't see the value in spending the extra money. Going back to what you were talking about noticing the differences when you stand up and sit down, yes, its a big difference and that's why back tilt is do important to get right.

Greatwhitebat,

After seeing your drawings, something tells me not only will you make light work of setting these speakers up, but you'll really enjoy the process. I wouldn't be shocked if you already have a lazer level. lol. It looks like you have plenty of room to either move the speakers out further in the room, or move your couch closer to the speakers. If you can, I would split the difference and do a little of both.