Rogue Audio. Reliability issues? Anyone?


I recently have been loving an Atlas Magnum power amplifier. I had a tube go bad, a fuse blow, and now red-plating. All of this could be related. But I am trying to decide if I want to pay shipping both ways ($90 each way), pay Rogue’s $175 bench fee (minimum) and then spend ungodly amounts on tubes that are hard to find.

I have friends, two to be exact, inform me that Rogue is notorious for this crap and their amplifiers are money pits. Is this normal tube stuff? Should I go for it or cut my losses and buy something else. I really love the way it sounds amd I really want to love Rogue. 

128x128nickrobotron

Showing 3 responses by ieales

Power tubes are matched for Gm and Ip.

Bias controls static Ip [plate current].

Gm is how much the tube responds to drive change.

Mismatched tubes have more 2nd harmonic, i.e. fat tube sound coloration.

I match drivers, triode halves and power tubes. The difference is clearly audible.

See ieLogical Valve Tester.

@nickrobotron Tube gear is pricy to own. I had a GL KT88 eat its cookies at about 1k hours. [It’s silly to run w/o hour meters.] So now I have GL KT88 spare quad, spare pair and spare.

Most tube gear is pretty simple and easily repairable with a bit of knowledge and a schematic. Of course, if you’re careless it can kill you. $175 seems cheap enough.

I've had one KT88 fail in the past 40 years and it took out the surface mount autobias board.

I'm probably not the typical tube owner as I have an hour meter and test and reseat tubes every six months. [about 500 hours]

I must stress that there is more to keeping tube gear going that just bias. A failing tube can either pass too much or too little current. When bias is checked, you should note the existing value, the datetime and the adjustment in a log.

If one tube is going in a different direction than its compadres, it's probably time to take action.

As far as those that claim bias is the only thing that matters, BUNK! You might get away with it in a single ended amp, but push-pull requires equal current change for equal grid change. If otherwise, the waveform is distorted.

And for all you rollers, you can change the sound by accenting or negating mismatch in the driver circuitry with mismatch in the power tubes. SO MARK YOUR TUBES SO YOU CAN PUT THEM BACK IN THE SAME PLACE if you really like the sound!!!

If you have multiple power tube pairs per channel and if you can test your tubes for Gm, you can balance the pairs to improve distortion. AND the match info written on the box ain't necessarily the same as it will perform at different voltages and currents. AND almost certainly not after a thousand hours.

Regarding power tubes, as others have said, no need to match if you have some form of bias adjustment.

Measured power and distortion?

Checked for HF oscillation?