Replacing sound proofing in cabniets

Richard: I agree that Fiberglass is typically a GREAT insulator inside of sealed speakers, but due to all of the health hazards and variables involved, i'm hesitant to recommend it unless i know exactly what's going on. After getting "bit" a few times, i've learned to ask questions before responding with answers. Not all dogs ( or questions ) are as friendly as they seem : ) Sean
>

For a vented system you should only have material lining the cabinet walls. In a sealed system you would have the filler material filling the entire cabinet interior (the amount of stuffing will depend on a number of design goals). Placing any type of material in the vent tube or vent hole will change the "Q" of the speaker system alignment. If we assume that the speaker's designer knew what he/she was doing, changing the alignment will probably not improve things.

Barry Kohan

I like the idea of adding Acoustic foam/low density foam.
Can anyone tell me the best place to buy this? My replacement drivers should be on their way soon and am hoping to replace the old material ASAP.

Thanks!!

Agree with above posts, but will add a couple of other suggestions...

You can try to completely stuff the box with foam - the type Sean recommended exactly. While it goes against the conventional wisdom to stuff a ported box, this is what the Fried Line Tunnel or the Von Schweikert Transmission Line(I disagree that it is a TL) do.

Or, you can use polyester batting, loosely filling up the box.

Both of these things can relieve a speaker of its boxiness in many, many instances, turning wheezing bass into more natural sound. As in all cases, experimentation is needed to see if it works for you and/or your speakers.

www.partsexpress.com

I bought some acoustic fill from them. They have a few selections including eggcrate foam, stuffing, and dampening sheets.