Replacing internal wiring.

The manufacturer of my speakers wants to try out an outboard crossover on my satellites using premium parts (sort of using my speakers as a test bed for future improvements; it's easier to access the outboard crossover), and as part of the drill I'm seriously considering doing the same thing with the internal wiring of my satellites, which is good but clearly could be better. I suppose if you use wiring to match your current speaker cables, then change those cables, you'll suffer audiophilia nervosa, but it still could make some sense. Only thing I wonder about is if a speaker manufacturer is using his ears as much as measurements when designing, you might wind up with a different sounding speaker as a result of this exercise. But what the heck, wire's wire, right?:>)

I've moddified several pair of speakers simply by matching component values with upgraded polypropylenes and using mostly Kimber VS wire as it's decent, not too expensive and can be broken apart from the braid to fit into small solder holes.

I have to only assume, that it would improve the speakers sound, I have done it on some Tannoy speakers, that had super cheap wire with some audioquest type 4 and I found out that it improved the sound. Also doing the same to a pair of NHT super ones, it helped out also. I would be replacing wire that is basicly cheap stuff like monster cable, with Audioqeust CV4 for the speaker and Kimber 4tc or 8Tc for the amp.

The larger gauge audioquest wire is huge ( like my Caldera ), and would be hard to put in the amp, but some kimeber 8tc, has a large gauge but smaller package, also so does 4tc.

I have done this on my Spica's and on my JBL L-166's, and yes, it does help a little bit.. a little smoother, a little less hash-y. I would NOT recommend replacing wire in an amp unless the amp's designer is consulted or it's a mod others have done repeatedly with successful improvement. Also I just finished working with some silver solder and some large 10 gauge mult-strand solid core copper wire and I had to use a 100 watt iron and it really had to heat up the wire before that silver solder would melt! good luck.

Xiekitchen, what kind of silver solder ? Some of it won't melt or bond for ANYTHING. I use an 800* tip and some silver based solders still won't "grab" very well on some metals.

I have re-wired amps, preamps, speakers, etc... Sometimes, the results are subtle, sometimes they are staggering. One thing is for certain. You should document EVERYTHING ( which wire goes where, what direction, etc... ) before even attempting to remove anything. This will allow you to go back to where you first started on the whole thing or replace just one part. Keep in mind that all of the wiring and connections will take a bit of use to fully settle in, so don't go off the deep end right away if you're not thrilled. Sean
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