Gabe, you'll need a hole in the rear panel big enough to accept an IEC outlet. This is the biggest part of the mod you propose. If an appropriate hole is not there already you'll have to make one. You may get lucky and find you can just take out the original AC wire and enlarge the existing hole, but on the other hand the positioning of that hole may make it a bit awkward to enlarge.
If the unit has an auxiliary AC outlet you might be able to use the hole for that. I've seen a NAD C320BEE modified that way.
Alternatively you can try hard-wiring in a new cord. You'll need a new strain relief if you trash the old one taking out the old cord, or if the new cord is too fat for the old part. (The strain relief is the little plastic pincher that sits in the AC cord entry hole and keeps the AC wire from rubbing against the chassis.)
Both of these approaches (IEC outlet / new hardwire) require you to take out the old cord first. Label the terminals inside when you do that (hot or neutral) so you don't forget which was which.
Be aware that the mod will almost certainly not change the resale value of your component and if you don't do an A-1 job, resale value will decrease.
If the unit has an auxiliary AC outlet you might be able to use the hole for that. I've seen a NAD C320BEE modified that way.
Alternatively you can try hard-wiring in a new cord. You'll need a new strain relief if you trash the old one taking out the old cord, or if the new cord is too fat for the old part. (The strain relief is the little plastic pincher that sits in the AC cord entry hole and keeps the AC wire from rubbing against the chassis.)
Both of these approaches (IEC outlet / new hardwire) require you to take out the old cord first. Label the terminals inside when you do that (hot or neutral) so you don't forget which was which.
Be aware that the mod will almost certainly not change the resale value of your component and if you don't do an A-1 job, resale value will decrease.