Replace Dynaudio woofers?

Wow it looks like a short occurred on the crossover, is the other one like that as well? Best case scenario would be the crossovers sacrificed themselves and protected the drivers. Definitely get both crossovers out and give them a good inspection. You might be able to buy replacement crossovers from Dynaudio or even rebuild them better then new using modern parts with the same specs assuming you know how to solder. If that’s the case and it turns out the drivers are still good, this could be a rather inexpensive repair/potential upgrade.  PS. Mine are also Cherry. Love them, there’s something about the older Contour series.  Solid bass, and strong midrange.  They lack the detail of the modern Dyn models, but are almost agnostic to bad recordings.  

@xidnpnlss .   Email me directly.... I'll help you out,use my same name here, then add at live dot com

Whelp no sign of burnt component in the other speaker. 🙄 "Back" to checking drivers: if anyone has suggestions on how remove glued drivers, I’d love to hear it.

@perkadin Yeah, they’re just so lovely, aesthetically and sonically. My usual upgrade path is to sell units I’m replacing - these aren’t going anywhere ever. I was looking at the manual, and this was the last bit of text:

We listen to glue. “I know exactly what goes into this,” says Daniel Emonts. He’s the man behind Contour’s drivers. “I know all the materials and everything. But there’s magic behind it too, when you hear the result.” Daniel should know. In Dynaudio Labs, our R&D department, they listen to everything. Everything. Even glue. “We decided to change the glue between the voice-coil and the cone. We thought it would take two or three months, but we ended up taking a year measuring, recording and listening,” he says. “I think 80 percent of us could tell the difference between the glues. And now that’s going to be part of our R&D procedure. Listening to glue.” 

Maybe that something "special" you refer to is glue? :) I hope Dynaudio can tell me what glue they used; tips on removing the drivers.

@timlub Thank you so very much. I’ll email you directly.

I’d try a hair dryer and a small putty knife. Slowly work the putty knife along the edges while applying heat to loosen the glue.  The lip isn’t wide so you won’t need to go deep with the knife to see results.  It’s strange, my 1.1’s had no glue and both drivers came off freely with the screws removed.  The 1.8’s are definitely stuck on with something besides screws. I bought them separately, years apart.  
The 1.8s have been used daily for over 20 years (H/T setup) and still sound the same to me.  I had a recent Phish concert on last night and really pushed them, mid 90db peaks at my listening position.  The old Danes took it like a champ.  Btw- I added Lytmi led strip on the back of my TV and it really adds to the realism of concert video. 

@xidnpnlss  I’m vicariously following the repair with you and looking forward to future updates. Would it help if I took a pic of the area with the woofer removed so you see the underside?  Good luck!  

@perkadin Yes! That would be super helpful. I'll go to the hardware store to find a proper putty knife in a bit. I'll keep updating this thread.

God. Phish. That brings me back. I followed them in 2000; seen a total of 21 shows. These speakers have definitely played their fair number live tapes. Which show? My taste has changed a bit since then lol. And I take it you haven't changed the ferrofluid? Maybe I needn't worry about it then. I'd like not to have to pry off another driver.

If the crossover doesn't come out from the woofer hole, and I can't repair it on the inside, then I think it's over: I do not want to have to cut into these cabinets...

Or maybe idk. This whole process has really demystified the internals of a speaker. And I was looking through parts and they're so inexpensive. Maybe I'll get into the DIY game?  

Thanks for your support. Until the next step! - Michael