2. amps-preamps
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Repair help please

Hi everyone,

I bought a refurbished Dayton Audio SA 1000 subwoofer amp that I hope is worth fixing.

After a few weeks, it started to cause a pop sound at volume levels approaching moderate and above.

A few weeks later, I noticed it happening more often when raising the volume from a lower (low enough to speak to someone in the room) to moderate level.

The unit also developed a noticeable mechanical hum and made the subs pop quite loud the last 2 times when powered off.

Parts Express reimbursed me with no need to ship mine back as they can't do anything with refurbished returns.

Duke at Audio Kinesis immediately shipped me a brand new replacement before I had a chance to send him a check!
Beginning to think the worst part of missing Axpona is not having the opportunity to meet Duke in person!

So I have a working Dayton now.
Such a nice amp!  Would be great to have the other one repaired.

Anyone else experience this? Is it worth fixing?  

System:
Laptop ->USB -> Hegel H190 ->RCA->Dayton SA1000 -> 4 subs in Series/Parallel 



  
hleeid
7 responses Add your response
millercarbon's avatar
millercarbon
12,531 posts
 
First I notice series/parallel. Are you sure of the resulting impedance?

hleeid OP
219 posts
 
I connected the subs as indicated by Duke:

Dayton Right  (Top posts) output -> 4 post sub -> 2 post sub
Dayton Left  (Bottom posts)  output -> 4 post sub -> 2 post sub

Should be at 4 ohms.

Dayton user manual page 3:
8. Speaker Outputs
Speaker level output connections carry the amplified signal
to the subwoofer drivers. Binding posts will accept bare wire,
banana plugs, or spade plugs. Two sets of outputs are provided
so multiple systems can be connected. When using
both outputs the combined load must have a minimum of 4
ohms impedance!

Should the impedance be different? 
millercarbon's avatar
millercarbon
12,531 posts
 
Without knowing the impedance of your subs the only indication its right is you did what Duke said. It was kind of a long shot anyway as if they were wired for too low impedance the protective circuits would have been tripping right away not after a few weeks. 

I would open it up, look around inside, hope to find something obviously scorched or whatever. Then maybe call some place local. Because as soon as you add in shipping, labor, its really only a $500 amp so where's the value?

Main value I can see is using it as an experiment. Pull some obvious parts, caps or whatever, check values, and if everything that comes out measures good keep it out, put in a bag, you saved what you could, toss the rest.
rodman99999
6,109 posts
 
Not familiar with that particular amp, but- I’ve repaired amps, with the same symptoms, that had a bad/blown filter capacitor (power supply cap).     
hleeid OP
219 posts
 
Appreciate the long shot.  
There are a few local places I can look into.

I like the experiment idea though!  Never opened up any components.

Would be good to have the opportunity to examine the parts, see what/how things need to be cleaned, etc. 
Watch some videos on this, ...
hleeid OP
219 posts
 
@rodman99999 - I'll take a look when I open it up.  Would replacing a filter capacitor be expensive? Complicated?
rodman99999
6,109 posts
 
Again; I’m not familiar with your particular amp, or- it’s power supply.      Regarding the usual, unregulated PS; it’s typically one of the easier repairs, one can make.      Easy to spot, too.      Look for the largest capacitors, in the component.      Look around them, for leaked electrolyte, or- a pushed out, rubber, pressure release, somewhere around the terminals (you’ll know what that is, if it’s there).      Don’t touch those terminals, unless you’ve discharged the capacitors (ie: with a screwdriver, heavy wire, etc), a couple times each, a few minutes apart.                 Some amps have bleed resistors, that do that for you.      Some don’t.
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