REL Magic

Hello there

I'd like to try the SR20 fuses on my REL B1, you mean the fuse 5 Amperes but there are two others on the main map n I have also replaced for best results, or should I replace only one of 5 amperes?

Can someone please help me

"I'd like to try the SR20 fuses on my REL B1, you mean the fuse 5 Amperes but there are two others on the main map n I have also replaced for best results, or should I replace only one of 5 amperes?"

Hi Pakito, for ultimate performance gains one should replace all 3 fuses but beware that removing the amp/interface from the enclosure to get to the two internal fuses might void your warranty if in the highly unlikely event something should go wrong.

I believe the B1 has two internal 5 amp slo-blo fuses for each power supply rail and a 6.3 amp slo-blo fuse in the IEC inlet but you will have to pull them to be absolutely sure. I would also suggest bumping the amperage rating by a small amount with the new fuses. For example, I would go with 7 amp slo-blo for the IEC inlet and 6 amp slo-blo for the internal fuses.

If you're not comfortable opening the unit to get to the two internal fuses, just changing the IEC fuse gives a nice bump in performance.

Hope this helps.

Hello Nmmusicman ,

Thank you very much for your help!

Personally, I opted for the fuse Quamtum RED instead of SR20! I noticed that by reversing the direction of the fuse holder, it has an impact on the final result, I tested the fuse dands 2 directions and chose the direction that offers a quality of the bass faster and defined! there is a meaning to install the fuse! then I suggest you try this if you have done it again!

Next step will be the cable REL BASSLINE BLUE and better cable Power Supplies!

Please tell me, what interest to replace the main fuse 5 Amps by one of those 7 and 6.3A on the main board replaced with 6 Amp?

Thanks again for your help!

Hi Pakito,

Yes fuse directionality should be explored by everyone who has taken the time to upgrade their fuses and with high resolution fuses even more so.

The reason I bump my fuse ratings up slightly is that since most high end fuses are on the costly side, as compared to generic hardware store glass fuses, I want to increase the headroom margin so as not to risk blowing a fuse in the event that the circuit designer chose to be on the conservative side of current protection and to also provide circuit protection in the event that a circuit malfunction does occur.

Hope this helps.

Taking the whole fuse directionality thing a little farther, wouldn't it make a great deal of sense to ensure that all wire everywhere is in the correction direction. You know, things like internal wiring of electronics, internal speaker wiring, cartridge wiring, tonearm wiring, power cords, interconnects and speaker cables, of course, romex, wire in transformers, all those tiny little wires in flat cables, jumper cables, capacitors, things of that nature.