REL Magic

REL now offers their own upgraded cable called the Bassline which utilizes teflon coated slow-drawn high purity copper and silver solder for the connections.
I haven't tried the Bassline but I do use the SR Tesla REL SPEC Resolution Reference cable on my Strata lll and Stadium lll subs and it is miles ahead of the stock one in terms of extension, clarity and soundstaging.

Another upgrade that took me by surprise was replacing the stock mains fuse with SR20 fuses. It provides more of the same attributes that the cable upgrade provides and alot cheaper! I highly recommend anyone who owns a REL to give the SR20 fuses a shot, you will not be disappointed!!

Sunnyboy, the mains fuse for the G1 are 5 Amp semi delay(slo-blo) 230 volts, 10 Amp semi delay(slo-blo) 115 volts.
Yes the Bassline cable can be ordered on-line, Music Direct has them. Also, not sure about the G1 but my Stadium lll also has two fuses inside on the amplifier PCB as well as the mains fuse. I changed all three.

Kalbi23, to change the mains fuse in the T7, power off the unit and remove the power cord from the IEC inlet. Directly below the IEC inlet is a small rectangular insert that is part of the IEC module. You will then notice a small recess on the top outer edge of the insert. Take a small flat blade screwdriver and with the blade in the recess, gently pry forward. The fuse holder/fuse will pop free and you can then pull the fuse holder/fuse free of the IEC module to change the fuse.

Once you have changed the fuse, insert the fuse holder back in the IEC module ensuring that it is fully seated. Note that it can only be inserted one way so make note of it's direction when removing the holder.

Jafreeman, when I changed to SR20's in both my REL's I had to bump up the volume just a smidge to rebalance, also didn't notice any burn-in changes. I generally bump up the amperage ratings of all the high-end fuses I implement although in electronics I don't go over ~1 amp more than rated.

"I'd like to try the SR20 fuses on my REL B1, you mean the fuse 5 Amperes but there are two others on the main map n I have also replaced for best results, or should I replace only one of 5 amperes?"

Hi Pakito, for ultimate performance gains one should replace all 3 fuses but beware that removing the amp/interface from the enclosure to get to the two internal fuses might void your warranty if in the highly unlikely event something should go wrong.

I believe the B1 has two internal 5 amp slo-blo fuses for each power supply rail and a 6.3 amp slo-blo fuse in the IEC inlet but you will have to pull them to be absolutely sure. I would also suggest bumping the amperage rating by a small amount with the new fuses. For example, I would go with 7 amp slo-blo for the IEC inlet and 6 amp slo-blo for the internal fuses.

If you're not comfortable opening the unit to get to the two internal fuses, just changing the IEC fuse gives a nice bump in performance.

Hope this helps.

Hi Pakito,

Yes fuse directionality should be explored by everyone who has taken the time to upgrade their fuses and with high resolution fuses even more so.

The reason I bump my fuse ratings up slightly is that since most high end fuses are on the costly side, as compared to generic hardware store glass fuses, I want to increase the headroom margin so as not to risk blowing a fuse in the event that the circuit designer chose to be on the conservative side of current protection and to also provide circuit protection in the event that a circuit malfunction does occur.

Hope this helps.