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Recommendations for a new subwoofer?

I had a REL S/2 sub in my system that I bought new in 2014 but earlier this year it suddenly refused to power up. I checked and replaced the fuse (which actually wasn’t blown in the first place, but couldn’t hurt to try) which yielded no result, so I called up REL directly, as they’re actually located in Berkeley CA, very near to where I live. The person I spoke to was very cordial and helpful, but it turned out that they could no longer repair that model. She did, however, refer me to a tech nearby whom, she said, may be able to help. So after some communication with the tech, I made an appointment and dropped the sub off back in February. Well, I knew in advance that things move slowly with him--he makes that clear from the beginning--so I just waited to hear. Finally, last night (yeah, I know: 3 months later) he informed me that one of the boards was fried, and they don’t make that one any more, so essentially the sub is not repairable. 

So this sordid story brings me to my question: what would be a suitable replacement for that sub? It had a 10" driver, which, for my listening habits and the room where my system is, was plenty adequate. It was paired with my Ryan R-610 speakers. 

A few subs I am considering: Elac Varro Reference RS500, Paradigm Defiance S10, and the REL T/9X. One reason I’m favoring the latter, despite my previous experience with REL, is that it doesn’t rely on an app to get it dialed in to my system, and I still have a rather good after-market speakon cable I can use.  Whatever sub I wind up with will have to have speaker-level outputs, because my integrated (Modwright KWI 200) doesn’t have a sub-appropriate input.

The above list should give indication of what price-range I can manage, i.e. $1500 or less. Recommendations and suggestions gratefully received. Thanks!

cooper52
cooper52 OP
195 posts
 

Here's an update: based on reviews, suggestions here, availability, price, and my ability to make a deal I'm comfortable with, I've ordered an Elac Varro RS-500 which should arrive in a week or two. My plan is to connect this via my Modwright KWI 200's pre-outs, and we'll see what we get. I'll post my impressions when I've had a chance to put it through its paces. 

BTW, for those who may have missed it, I posted my question about high/low pass filtering (q.v.) separately, and that turned into an eye-opening discussion which you may find enlightening. I certainly did. And no, it's not gonna happen in my system.

cooper52 OP
195 posts
 

Doing a bit of calculating here, just for the fun of it. Modern concert "A" has been standardized to 440 Hz (though this varies with different orchestras, some tuning a bit higher, like 441 or 442). An octave below that (220 Hz) is the top line of the bass clef, and an octave below that (110 HZ) is the bottom space of the bass clef. Halving that again to 55 Hz, we find ourselves 3 ledger lines under the bass clef, which, on the double bass, is the open 3rd string (though, for those of you who might not be familiar, the double bass is always notated an octave higher than it sounds so it can be read comfortably on a bass clef--that open A string would be the bottom space) and if we halve that to 27.5 Hz, that’s quite a bit lower than any orchestral instrument can go. The double bass bottoms out at about 41 HZ, so a subwoofer that goes down to 15 or 18 Hz is REALLY gettin’ down there. 

llg98ljk's avatar
llg98ljk
208 posts
 

Just a plus on Hsu subs. I run dual Hsu's in my very modest system. KEF R3 Meta stand mounts. I'm sure my system is not optimized but going to 2 subs eliminated a vexing suck-out issue I had using just one. Satisfying thump you in the chest when called for and invisible when not.

Check out their website. Easily able to get a pair for under $2K. Also might consider the new class of small subs like KEF KC62 or 92. Although I have no personal experience with the KEF subs, they look like a good fit for your situation.

That said, go with your ears and intuition. don't be swayed by the hype and snobbery of certain brands. Lots of good choices out there,

 

celtic66
1,750 posts
 

@akg_ca +1     Just installed ATC C1 Mk2 in a casita setting (200sq.ft.) with ATC SCM 7 lll and it does the sub thing…. there, but not there.  Integrated well by ear.  Great bass texture and not physically monstrous or 100lbs.  3K in this world is not obscene.  Best of luck.

badbruno
36 posts
 

I would strongly recommend that what ever you decide on it should have Active feedback of the driver. Acceleration or position to deliver 12-15 hz responses. Im getting ( measured ) 12hz from my Velodyne 18" DD+, and two Rhythmic 15" s.

Regardless what folks say there is presence from bass lower than 20 hz. Systems with active feedback are also much Faster to follow the necessary slew rates from these instruments.

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