? Re-Terminate Virtual Dynamics Speaker Cable ?

No problem, if you ever really did want to do it I would do my best to help but I would rather you left it as it is not so easy.

Solder? I get asked this quite a bit so i will try help out. Please realize that is a big subject to cover but here is the very "short story" of it. The most important thing is the right solder, flux and iron for the right job.
In all my years the most important part of soldering was actually the iron, I now use JBC you can get them at Howard's Electronics If you are going to solder for audio you need this tool in my opinion it is just so good.
It is not that solder is not important but the lead free high silver content solder that is common for audio quality is hard to get flowing and you can damage conductor or boards with to much heat, a good iron makes all the difference mostly because most irons suck and have poor heat transfer and take to long to actually heat and you never know your tip tempature. Flux is also very important it can be used incorrectly and weaken your solder but you don't want to be without it. There are as many types of flux as there are solder and finding the right one is key a good overall flux I find is MG chemical no-clean. It has taken me years to find the right tools and gain the experience about them I am sharing here. Yes it is helpful to be soldering almost everyday for a few years but the tools are the key.
Solders: I Like Mundorf supreme "cryo" in some applications and Cardas "cryo", and MG chemicals silver yes of course "Cryo". But i have about 10 rolls I use frequently depending on the job all different brands and sizes. But getting back to it, It is most important to get a "good solder job", good solder is useless without it and all solders are quite good if the solder job was well done. In fact that is the very key you just need the right solder, right tool, right flux, right heat and for the right time. Talk to the manufacture about the solder and learn what is the intended use heat range and such and then practice with it. Some just do not work as well for some applications. Buy lots of types and play but again have a great iron (JBC is best) and lots of tips for it of different sizes so you always have the right tool. Also play with flux it is an esential tool in proper soldering it helps flow but have a good cleaner as well. Keep your tip clean on our solder iron and season it properly to start and do not use solder that has been on your iron for more than about 3-4 seconds. Most solders will burn in much over that time some you don't have even that long with. :-) If you thinking a good solder job is not easy your right. It is an art but it is fun to learn.
I won't be able to check the thread again for awhile so contact me with questions via e-mail.
Hope that helped.

Hiya Rick, nice to hear your around!

Thanks for the confirmation that I thought the job may be a bit tricky for a soldering learner. Glad I did not attempt and mess up my cables :-)

Cheers for the email address, will drop you a line soon.

Just out of interest, what audio differences did you find with the different solders?

Thanks again
:-)

Hello it is Rick here I was the designer of Virtual Dynamics.
I recommend you do not attempt this with anything but Testament that does not have the compacted vibration dampening materials. Even with Testament you will find a formidable challenge to re-terminate due to very large conductors and specialized materials used. You can contact me at highendaudionut@gmail.com for more information.
Solder was Cryo genially treated Cardass or Mundorf depending on model, you will want a "very" good soldering iron to attempt this speed of soldering is critical to avoid damage to conductor JBC makes great ones you will want a very large tip to rapid heat transfer.
It is not at all impossible but you will want my help and will be taking a chance of damaging the cable integrity without experience and the right tools.
Rick

I have a feeling I may need a very powerful soldering iron.. maybe I will try and find out a bit more as I don't want to destroy the magic spells, if I can't re-create them :-)
Cheers

For large gauge I'd simply crimp lock rather than solder at all.
I heard that the VD manufacturer(forgot his name) does some magic spells on the complete product against vibration, EMI, RFI and otherI(s).
You can find out instructions and share:-)

ok cool, so stripping back heat shrink, de solder the spade, with helping hands, resolder on new spades, simple as that... :-) any anti vibration magic used on the original connection ?

Cheers
:-)

you need to have a powerful soldering iron and clamps such as 'helping hands' to do any of speaker cable terminations or interconnects.