"ANTI-CABLE" SPEAKER CABLE vs Audio Arts SC5?

I use something like Anti Cables: Mapleshade Helix speaker cables. Same recipe but different cook and I believe, the first to use this recipe. Throws the window wide open (no roll off, better extension) but lower mids and bass are reticent, not MIA, just not as fully represented as the upper mids and highs.

I bi wired, on the same posts, some Clear Day cables and now it's all I could ask for. Incredible detail and resolution but full bodied with excellent pitch, tone and definition. Great separation, location accuracy (pin point, never wavers) and a noise floor that compliments my amp, for once.

Great cables can be had for not too dear a price. You just have to be willing to experiment, and these were some old cables I had lying around.

All the best,
Nonoise

Ravensbark. You have great patience, however, I don't believe you should have been put through that experience, or anyone for that matter. I think Morrow Audio has to come to terms with this ridiculously long, anxiety riven, and spasmodic break-in period. They should cook the cables 90-95% to peak performance, and just charge twice as much as they charge now for "burn-in service". It would be worth it and then some.

Just imagine someone who is an average or less than average listener, it could take an interminable amount of time to reach sonic nirvana; possibly, even years before the listener GETS WHAT HE/SHE PAID for, THAT IS.....UPGRADED PERFORMANCE. If cable manufacturers can't accomodate the customer on this problem, maybe it is time for them to pursue a new profession

Thank you for helping me eliminate another brand of speaker cable to consider....Morrow Audio Cable

Sunnyjim-My dour language, stemming from a serious personal family situation, I'm sure, has left an obviously negative impression of Morrow Cables. (Perhaps I shouldn't even be out on the forums, but this hobby is a great release, anyway, so I'm using it to it's potential.) My explanation is lacking, however; my apologies. So...
Mike offers either a two-day or a week-long break-in service for his cables, for a fee. He is up-front about the long settling the cables require and provides ample consumer evidence supporting this fact. I opted for the shorter break-in service, and while the wires sounded good right out of the box, there were a few troubling moments as the cables continued their break-in and integration into my system. As it stands now, however, the cables have mostly opened up, and the sound coming through them is terrific, some days quite dizzying, and seem to only be getting better...
I agree with you on the fickle nature of upgraded sonic performance: up the ladder we go, hoping to eek out a little more quality in sound, only to be met with high maintenance components, ever more difficult esoteria, and, of course, larger sums of money spent with increasing amounts of self-delusion. But we endure a certain amount of nonsense, because at the beginning, only wanting for decent sound, most of us came to the realisation that one didn't just head to the corner appliance store to pick up a rig--bang, instant good sound.
I was using a set of DIY cables that ran about $40 before my recent upgrades, and the sound was nothing to scoff at. However, I knew that the right upgrades would only help my system. Swapped out a few different sets of cable, including AudioArts, although not the 5's (like most of these companies, I understand that moving up the product line is worthwhile). I wanted to like the AA's, especially as Rob is a wonderful individual with whom I enjoyed a great conversation, but they refused to integrate into my rig. I therefore figured that I was either stuck with the DIY cables or had to save my pennies for esoteric and expensive audio jewelry.
Then Mike helped me out with the SP4's during one of his sales. I had read much about his wire and, upon the recommendations of many Audiogon members, skipped right to the 4's. Indeed, there has been a little suffering (should have got the full break-in, though I'm a cheapskate), but the result is wonderful. The music shines, as it should. Even after some difficulty (which is small, in the scheme of things), I highly recommend them.
Twisting your own cables might be something to also consider (as I see that you are, like the rest of us, searching, searching). I just got two rolls of differently-gauged magnet wire, 19 and 21, for speaker cables for my wife's MiniWatt. I don't really need another project, but I'm still a bit excited about it. I'll let you know if I blow anything up...
(Nonoise--Are you jacking the Mapleshade's into the HF and the ClearDay's into the LF for your bi-wire set-up, or are you using the ClearDay's for the returns? Interested...)
Hope this clarifies things a bit. Thanks for the listen. Best,

I recently moved from the anti-cables to Morrow SP-1, two pairs to bi-wire my VR4JRs. I also tried the Kimber Kable 8PR in bulk and bare wire terminations. Funny thing is that the 8PR required no break-in of any kind. They were good at the moment I installed them. I must say however that the SP-1s were even better on the mid-range/tweeter module, so I kept that pair and returned the other. The 8PRs were better on the bass module- more full bass but still tight and responsive. The 8PR is $6/foot. You have to strip a lot of wire, but it doesn't take long. It is now my preferred speaker wire over the anti-cable for a great value. Kimber is certainly on to something with this speaker wire. In fairness, the cost of termination should be considered in comparison to anti-cables and Morrow. The 8PR can be bought terminated for $122 for a 5 foot pair terminated with standard spades (CableCo).

Remember that all cables sound different depending on to what they are attached. I maintain there is no BEST cable...just the one that sounds best to the listener in his/her own system.