Hi, I have a Gyrodec mk1 but I have applied all the upgrades so even the pin (inverted) is the last version.
For cleaning I lift the plate and then all the brass sleeve and clean very well with a clean rag all the oil, being very careful not to lose the bearing ball.
Mobil oil is the one suggested by the manufacturer in the absence of the original; it has to be completely synthetic and the exact density value I do not remember now. In 30 years that I own the record player I used both the original and Mobil and there are no differences.
I change it every 5 years or so, but I check once a year that there is always a few drops in the container. You could replace it once in 10 years or more, but being easy to maintain does not take much time to check.
Not being a car engine with high revolutions of rotation but only a turntable that rotates at low rpm would not serve to change it practically ever but for scruple a little check every now and then is fine.
I have owned Michell tables since the seventies and with my first Gyro around 84 . I have owned a couple DC units after that original AC motor unit including the current SE I sold a couple years back. Now have my second Orbe SE, the first with AC motor and now with current DC motor/controller.
I change the oil every year. Not a recommendation , merely a service I choose to do to keep them performing new and "clean". I repaired tables in a past life so I take it as a very inexpensive opportunity to tune it up when removing the platter to thoroughly clean the residue around the perimeter, built up from the belts contact. If I don’t have the Michell oil at hand , Mobil synthetic 0W40 is what is recommended. It has no additives that are used to bond and fill micro scratches in cylinder walls for engines. The rifling in the bronze bearing is how the oil climbs from the well to the ball above.
Doing it yearly when the belt residue is cleaned just makes sense to do as it also puts the ball back at a new point of contact instead of 5 years of wear on a single point. The residue left on the platter/pulley is more detrimental to drag/speed and belt wear and should be done to all belt drives routinely/yearly. The oil can be left but for how little time and cost it takes why do a half arse job. Its a good opportunity to clean the table thoroughly of any dust and keeping it looking as new as well as performing as such and checking all layers for level and checking/ fine tuning suspension. Contrary to the false claims mostly by OCD individuals , The Gyro and Orbe are very easy to set the suspension and get the proper bounce , and they stay that way till moved or manipulated.
Thank you to both members for such a succinct and detailed reply!
I am currently on a 4 year bearing cleaning/oiling plan and will bump that down to a 2 year schedule, at the minimum.
It is my understanding that the small ball bearing at the bottom of the hydrodynamic bearing is only a 'catch bearing', and comes into use only when the platter spools down to zero RPM. The bronze bearing shaft rests on the small ball bearing, thus maintaining the proper oil reservoir level. The instructions I received with my table are vague on this subject.
I had not considered 'build up' from the 'O' Ring belt drive onto the platter itself.
What detailed method do you utilize to clean the platter drive belt grooves?
The platter has a (unknown type of ) black coating on it and I would not want to remove it with harsh chemicals or over aggressive 'scrubbing'.
Once again, thanks for the great feedback.......That is what makes this such a great site!!
@quincy I checked the oil; this is the Mobil 1 0W 40. show this
What is your Michell's model that you do not know yet?
You have the platter black color? Clean it only from dust or for a more thorough cleaning use a wet sponge with soap and water (better if it is neutral) and then dry with a soft cloth.
The platters don’t come "coated with a black substance ". They were aluminum first with aluminum bearing model , then delrin platter with an inverted bronze bearing. Delrin is like acrylic but closer to the composition of vinyl making it a better cunduit to let vibration travel through it and not reflect back to the cartridge. The best thing I found to safely clean the grooves of the platter of a Gyro is q tips dipped in endust for electronics. Its all natural and leaves no residue of its own and easily removes the residue the belt leaves from use. A micro fibre rag is good for the final wiping folded on edge into the groove to clean the groove . There is no scrubbing involved. Make sure its "endust for electronics" in a blue spray bottle and not endust the furniture cleaner which has waxy oil residue to polish. The endust electronic cleaner is all natural based and works well , for this and for cleaning faceplates safely. Squirting it on the rag or q tip is more effective for obvious reasons.
I don’t believe you can post a photo on this site....
Directly from this site no I have not succeeded, you have to use an online host to upload photos and then view them here, it is not complicated but requires a little patience.
Delrin is simply Dupont’s propriety name for the material. If you haven’t already , research it. Carbon/vinyl-loaded acrylic...…. all Michell’s info ever says is "Michell makes the platter from a proprietary self-damping compound of carbon/vinyl-loaded acrylic". Copolymer or polymer ??? There is a big difference in price between the two variants and performance. From my experience , regardless, it is one of the better sounding solutions for a platter and no need for fiddling with mats and adjusting arms with added height and suspensions with added weight.
if you have attention you will have read that I already have all the upgrades up to date on my Gyro ... the platter polymer made and the inverted pin were the first upgrades that I made 25 years ago just produced by Michell
Perhaps you should do the same. After owning Michell tables since 1978 (Michell reference electronic, still have it and working) and my first Gyro, a Mk1 in 84 then 2 more gyro’s a full plinth, then a current SE version. I owned an Orbe MK1 Ac unit as well and instead of modifying as I had done extensively with my Gyro’s I happened upon a current Orbe SE DC/NC controller unit for a steal and jumped on it. I am well versed in Michell tables and spent 25 years part time repairing turntables with more complex movements but not necessarily better , but some were , complete with their own drawbacks. I like the simplicity and quality of build in Michell’s design and the reliability to just enjoy with little fuss and upgrades are available yet not that big a deal with the current tables like the upgrades were on a MK1 to the better platter/ bearing / suspension / power supply now standard. I was simply trying to answer and help the OP. This is why many of us don’t bother much with the forums. People like you seem to see others as a VS. type personal engagement instead of a fellow enthusiast , thus stifling knowledge and the connections and advantages they bring.
OK. Thanks very much for the answer to my question.
Synthetic motor oil is OK to use. Change oil every 2 years or so. Clean platter grooves where belt rides every 2 years or so.
(good tips - I dampened a few cotton balls with distilled water and then gently pressed them into the platter belt grooves while rotating the platter manually via the center spindel hold down nut....btw - the grooves were dirty, more so than I expected.)
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