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Question about suitable fuse metals

I've been wanting to experiment with audiophile fuses for a while but the cost and the concern of blowing one of these costly fuses has kept me from purchasing.  However, I read that solid slugs actually sound better than fuses and cost WAY less, so I purchased a 6" rod of 99.99 copper and, because I wasn't really thinking, also purchased another 6" rod of titanium.  I guess I was thinking of rhodium, palladium, or platinum, not titanium.   I had these cut down to 20mm and, so far have tried them in my amp, a Red Dragon S500, and my DAC, the Bel Canto 2.8, which I run direct without a preamp.   The titanium slug sounds pretty darn good in the DAC, noticeably better than the copper. I tried one in the amp as well and that combo did not work well at all.  The amp is doing better with the copper slug.  I looked up the electrical conductivity of titanium and found it is a rather poor conductor.  Is there any risk to the DAC using the titanium slug, given the poor electrial conductivity?  Thanks for any relevant input.

lcherepkai

Showing 3 responses by larryi

larryi
3,724 posts
 

I don't need homeowner's insurance (never had my house burn down before), don't need to screen for cancer (never died from cancer before); don't need to look both ways before crossing the street (close, but never been hit by a car while walking).  WOW, there are plenty of things I don't need. 

Why put in slugs when you can cut out the fuse holder and straight wire the circuit?  If something does happen, be sure to cover up the evidence so you don't lose your insurance coverage?  Oh, I forgot, you don't have insurance (don't need it).

larryi
3,724 posts
 

I am more concerned with damaged gear than the prospect of a catastrophic fire.  While there is the possibility that different conductors in the fuse will change the sound, any such changes would most likely be adverse, as compared to no fuse at all; your first experiment should be to bypass the fuse holder entirely.

larryi
3,724 posts
 

If you open the amp, you will see that the fuse holder has two tabs where the wires are attached to the fuse holder.  Simply de-solder or cut the wires at the tab and then connect up the two ends of the wire together (solder then insulate with electrician's tape or shrink wrapping.  Even better would be to replace the wires that went to the fuse holder with a new wire that connects up the two destinations of the wires going to the fuse holder; this would mean no joint in the middle of the wire and no worry about insulating a joint.

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