Problem Solvers Needed-Got my New XOs installed and am worried....


I think I made a big mistake. I loved the sound of my 1988 Tannoy FSM Dual concentric 15'
speakers. So I thought an expert could analyze the existing XOs and make improvements.
I installed the new XOs expecting a 300-400 hour burn in period. Herein lies the problem.

After 30 hours or so the initial sound has no high end to it. I expected to initially hear sound as good as I had
which would continue to improve as the burn in continued. But no. 

I am tempted to reinstall the old XO and kiss off the $2k invested. 

I am very open to some suggestions from anyone who has been down this road.

Thanks,
chorus

Showing 4 responses by oldhvymec

I will tell you this, I have TRT teflon caps in 3 pairs of speakers I currently own. If you wanted to listen to them you could, I COULDN’T for over 200 hours. 500 hours was considered broke in.

So we are clear the manufacture told me to put the speakers under moving blankets for 24/7 with a SS amp and 10-30 watts going through them. Turn them off and on every 2 hours for the DC tickle on startup. It was the only way to break in teflon caps, it worked every time for me.

Two pairs of speakers I owned were sold BACK to the manufacture because of the BAD sound, and the customer said so.. "It should sound good when they’re delivered". I agree 100%, but I also paid 50% less for a break in..

I still like teflons the best.. Copper foil are pretty good too for mids in the band pass, a lot easier to break in to. 50 hours tops.

I’d make darn sure they were hooked up correct and let them percolate for 2-300 hours... All the time, stay in touch with the guy that sold you the XO. Did YOU asked him to do something silly? OR are the XO changes his idea?

His idea, his problem.
Your idea, your problem.

Be patient..

Regards
I sure would like to see a side by side of the two crossovers, (old and new)THAT would tell me a lot.. Any chance you could post a couple of pic in your "details"? If it's lost the highs its a resistor of some type in the HF path.

I'd look where it was hooked to the Highs and see if an inductor or resistor value was added and its GREATER than the original, or as simple as getting the decimal point in the wrong place.

If the HF driver wire was hooked up at the beginning of the HF circuit VS the end of the circuit? That would cause the bass to still be going through the HF side.

A series XO always coming off the + side and on to the next frequency is pretty easy to see the resistance in the path.

Here is the issue I could see in my minds eye. A resistor at the driver that is NOT on the XO. BUT because the resistor was left on or in the HF path the ADDED (but normal) resistor on the new XO doubled the resistance and of course cut the HF signal from getting through.

I would look to see if there is a component that you didn't see or were even looking for. Look at the HF driver terminals and make sure there is nothing in the path and if any type of wiring is going to the Negative side of the driver wire all the way to the new XO.  Just a thought..

If I was the builder though, I would have wondered WHY I had to add the greater value from the old? The light bulb should have gone off.. WHY?
And know a Tannoy XO is not going to be that far off.. IF AT ALL!!

Yet the only customer complaint is "It's Old".  NOT broke.. old...

All I got for no cost. I woke up at 3:30 thinking about that.. And of course it's time to feed the rabbit.. Junior. :-)

Regards
I'd stop and make sure I was hooked up right. Now that you've explained what you did. STOP!!! DON'T keep playing I wouldn't want to hurt those drivers.. 

I don't modify XOs other than the occasional make up cap (by pass is the wrong name) addition. My fear there was a resistor left on a HF driver or that its just wired wrong.. I don't bypass LPads and surely don't go from a tri/bi amp wiring set up to a single amp set up.. WAY to many things were changed..

The LPad removal had to have a little resistor for volume put in place? Wrong value or not hook up when bypassed.. It's in series right? Not a parallel XO..

 Again Tannoy are not that far off, they sound to good.. Am I missing something?

Less than 1 ohm? You'd be burning up amps. Thing aren't tracking.. for UNDER 1 ohm much less a 2 ohm load.. What kind of amp are you running? :-)

Regards
Post pics on your profile page, that's the best. I'd be looking at the db selection and what the heck was done there. No Highs, 12 db 2 components, 18 db 3 components, 24 db 4 components. If there is a notch add 2 more to any of the 3. If it has a normal series + feed.

Simple question, Did you like the way the speakers sounded before the XO change? Were you having any amp issues like overheating any weird science going on?

A Yes, No, answer is dupe the old xo with newer, better parts and be done with it.. Maybe add 2 make up cap in the mids and one in the highs..
The same values just use 2 to 3 to get the total value and it cost a lot less for the better caps and smaller values.. Nutty super voltage is the biggest mistake. 250 vac/dc caps are plenty.  Inductors, coils, and resistors.. good parts.

Don't mix up left and right either, they were tuned per box sometimes.. different values per speaker, because of driver differences..

It's easy to figure with tone burst and db level. If they are tuned and they are in the wrong box.. LOL 3-8 db difference. Left to Right..

Regards