Steve - cool. Great reply. Thank you very much. I am no stranger to Mick's new product announcements... I had a Chardonnay in my hands for 2 weeks, comparing it to $10,000 preamps and thinking it was the best under 10K... when the Cortese arrived and made the Chardonnay the best under 5K... :) Then, when I finally saved up enough cash to buy a Cortese, Mick introduced the Grange.
The good thing is that Mick has done a great job of providing me with something to look forward to - I guess.
I think you've done a good job of smoothing over the rough edges of this announcement. Perhaps there will not be a ripple of confused perception surrounding (and damaging) the reputation of existing Cortese and Grange preamps. |
Gogamecocks - The Pass Aleph is so....(excuse me) Passe' |
Curious, has anyone received any information from Mick regarding the "improvements"? And if so, could you share?
It doesn't seem like the www.supratek.biz website has been updated as Mick suggested it would be & its been two weeks since his announcement. |
Asa - While I'd love to engage Gogamecocks I thought I'd just let his presence on this forum pass (so to speak) -- he obviously had nothing relevant to add. |
Tonnesen, no fight from me - you make a good point.
So I will continue to wait patiently... |
McLeodsd, you should visit the Supratek website to get Mick's email address and ask him. Keep in mind that most every Supratek owner purchased without listening. |
On the line stage portion of my Cortese I use Mullard CV181/ECC32. NOTE: These did not work in my friends Syrah for some reason. The power supply has Genalex Gold Lion KT66's and the Bendix 6106. I added Telefunken CCa's to the phono. Previously I was using a Mullard GZ37 rectifier but it didn't sound good after I put the Accuphase transport into my system. The Bendix really made a nice improvement with this transport but didn't work too well in my system when I had other transports.
The regulators tubes are a great place to tweak the sound. The improvement I can hear in my Cortese and a friends Syrah (who also uses the KR Black Glass) are worth the investment. That said, I am considering buying Ecclectique's 350b's! :)
The TS 5881's are okay but actually seem a bit dark and muffled to me these days.
Recently I have been playing with Svetlana KT88's, GEC KT88's, TungSol black plate 6550's, GE 6550's, RCA metal 6L6 and some others in the Cortese (and Syrah) but right now, the Genalex Gold Lions fit my system the best.
Slowhand, I'd recommend trying as many 6L6 type tubes as you can get your hands on. |
Jazzdude - thanks for mentioning that. I wonder why Mick suggested to not use 6550/KT88 as voltage regulators. I've been told they are electronically the same as any 6L6 tube - it's just that they can take accept higher plate voltage. |
Dilly, You will hear a big improvement over the McIntosh preamp if you switch to a Supratek. While I have never listened to the C2000, my experience with McIntosh through owning and auditioning is that their amps are their strong suit. The preamps/processors and Mac digital I've listened to sounded equal to or in some cases less than other mid-fi home theater products. |
I too have experienced exceptional customer service and support from Mick. He bends over backwards to help customers with repair issues if/when they arise & cannot be resolved locally. In the event of such a need, Mick never hesitates to make the financial burden fair for both parties. |
Mlkiz, you will be shocked & amazed when you compare the CJ to the Syrah - it's not a subtle improvement. Within the Supratek range, the Syrah is the best value and has MUCH of the signature of the Cortese. To my ears, the major difference between the Cortese and Syrah is simply a bit of refinement which after some consideration, to me was worth the extra $$. Tonality and character remains very similar between the two. By refinement, I mean the Cortese is just a bit more precise, solid and quieter than the Syrah.
As for options - the remote works well and so does the "new" version of Mick's home theater by-pass. This option allows you to seamlessly integrate your multichannel HT processor/receiver with your main 2 channel amp. |
Damn Theaudiotweak, that's amazing! You must be the best audio guy ever!!! Yawn..... |
Jaded?? Who me? Nah! I'm still waiting for Mick to provide information about the "new" Supratek upgrades he announced to this thread - on October 23. And... getting tired of the selfrighteous BS which has been posted to this thread lately...
I want to talk Supratek's and tubes man! Enough with the bickering - mine's bigger than yours kinda stuff!
Along those lines - a little bird told me Mick will be introducing a NEW entry level preamp very soon... Forgot what its called exactly but... I know its another wine (one I've never heard of)
Other than that, I'm cycling through various rectifiers and regulator tubes in the Cortese. I've got about 15 more rectifiers on the way as well as some GEC KT77 and Mullard EL37's to try.
The Cortese is massively sensitive to these tubes.
With my current Mullard GZ37 and Genalex Gold Lion KT66's the sound is super involving but a wee bit too rich and/or muddy to be natural. With Mullard GZ37 and Sylvania 5932 - (black single plate with holes variety) the sound of the system is reminiscent of an SME30 - very precise - very neutral - natural - and very boring. ;)
I'm trying to get somewhere in-between.
I've been through a lot of rectifiers lately and I keep coming back to the GZ37 in my system because it seems to synergize best.
**I'm still looking for some killer 350b's.
Other than that? Hmmm... Oh... get yourself a Meitner (Museatex) Bidat if you bother listening to digital & have it upgraded by John Wright. Its the "DAC Deal Of The Century!" no joke. |
Cello and others, the regulator tubes you select will make a big difference in the overall sound of your preamp. Both the Cortese AND the Syrah are rather responsive to these tubes.
You will have to try many to find out what's best in your system and for your tastes. While I agree with Asa that the 6SN7's make a more profound difference, the 6L6's, once you've heard what they do, cannot be ignored.
Right now, I find the clear glass Genalex Gold Lion KT66's to be the best regulator tubes. They are somewhat expensive but can be found on Ebay for around 200 a pair. This is money well spent. IMHO, The sound is legendary.
For those still using TS 5881's. PLEASE try something else you will be VERY glad you did. |
Tom - have you ever used a Supratek preamp? |
Theaudiotweak - That's unfortunate, I'd love for you to have a Supratek. Perhaps you would be able to figure out the best way to set up the mechanical grounding for these.
Unfortunately I don't live anywhere near Indiana or I'd bring mine to you.
Inside a Supratek, the internal components are bolted to the top of the somewhat thin metal (copper) chassis. The wooden side panels are screwed to the chassis. The bottom plate is secured to the chassis with four screws.
When attempting to mechanically ground the Supratek via the bottom plate, I find it a little "top heavy" because the center of gravity seems to be 5 inches above the bottom plate. This seems to magnify vibrations.
Removing any feet and resting the wooden side panels on a surface sounds better but the impedance mismatch between the metal chassis and the wood side panels means that the energy is not drained as efficiently as it could be.
The trouble with this is that the bottom of a Suprateks' wooden side panels is NOT FLAT - so the unit will not be securely coupled to a surface.
Thoughts? |
Once a system reaches a certain point of refinement (synergy), finding components (or cables, tubes, etc) which further IMPROVE the system can be VERY difficult. Simply replacing a component with a more expensive component or one which is rumored to be better, doesn't always produce an improvement in overall sound.
Tweaks are an effective way of further refining a system once this point is reached.
Additionally - tweaks can be an effective means of obtaining synergy between components that do not synergize naturally. |
**THE** power cord for Supratek? I have what I believe to be the best power cord EVER for the Supratek. I was planning to post info on it but the designer just changed his design. I want to compare the new design to the old before making any recommendations - just incase the new is better than the old or vice versa.
The new version is supposed to have twice as many conductors as the old version & that's the only change I know of.
The price of the cords when I purchased my "new version" a week ago was $250 for a 6 footer. I think he offers a trial period too but I'm not sure.
The new cord is on its way from Canada and I'll post more info once I've heard it. |
Swampwalker, the KT66's I use are the Genalex Gold Lion KT66's which have clear glass, a brown base and gold script which reads "Gold Lion". I think the photo of my Supratek power supply shows these tubes.
Like I said in the earlier post, they are not the most accurate I've heard but they are the most involving. Liquidity to the max & seductive! They do have a tendency to push the vocals into the foreground and tend to make the instruments fall slightly behind. On the down side, this tube seems to bring about a bit more sibilance in a system than other tubes.
I think any GEC, MO-Valve, Genalex clear glass KT66 you can find will be very similar to the gold lion.
While these tubes are not exactly cheap. They can be found on ebay in nice pairs for $200 and up.
Of course this is relative but IMHO even $300 for a pair of vintage tubes will be money well spent. Once you hear how these tubes sound, you will not be able to go back.
The good thing is that in the regulator position, these tubes should last a very, very, very long time. |
Power cord update. Well... Unfortunately I cannot recommend the new version of the cord. So far, its not sounding too good compared to the old version. I'm going to continue letting this thing break in and see if it gets any better. |
Mike - yes. I have tried the Omega Mikro. The cord I have been speaking of is made by Moray James Cables. The new version is still breaking in on my system and so far, I like the old version better. The Omega Mikro (believe it or not) seemed a bit rolled off and "duller" than the Moray James. In other applicatons, the Omega Mikro is an awesome cord. |
Swampwalker - I've never tried the CBS-Hytron 6L6GC but I have tried MANY 6L6 variants. There are some real winners out there which bring out a special quality when used in the Supratek. I have some pretty rare tubes which I use including the 350b, KT77, KT66, and EL37. While they all have their own magic, I find the KT66's easier to listen to because they are the most liquid of the bunch. Of course they introduces other problems including a slight loss of detail and natural sonics in favor of more midrange richness. But... like I said, they are the extremely involving in this application. If you listen to this tube - notice the super-silky smoothness of vocals. The KT66's seem to gel the best with Mulard GZ rectifier tubes.
The 350B's are most likely the BEST tube overall in terms of power & realisim. But I find them less involving than the KT66. With the 350B's I like the Bendix 6106 rectifier as well as the MO-Valve U54 -- I cannot decide which I prefer.
Your choice in regulator/rectifier depends upon whether or not you wish to be "sucked in" or "blown away". In my system, the KT66's suck you in and the 350B's blow you away.
Two totally different states of mind as far as listening goes and which is truly better depends on you. |
Hi Grannyring - sounds like you've got the stock tubes so almost anything you do will be an improvement. Many of the Supratek users on the board here use the Tung Sol 5881 in as regulator tubes and Mullard GZ-30-somethings as a rectifier. That is a very nice combo but I'd be willing to bet you can find something you like better - experimentation is the key to finding what fits your taste and synergizes best with your system.
One tube you left out is the 6SN7 tube.... That's the KEY to the Supratek sonics. I recommend Raytheon VT-231, Tung Sol Round Plate 6SN7GT and Ken Rad Black Glass VT-231's as great choices for the Syrah. I'd say the Raytheon is the least colored followed by the Tung Sol and then the Ken Rad.
Sylvania VT-231's and the 6SN7WGT (metal base) are good choices for the most open sound you can get out of the Syrah. The 6SN7WGT's are expensive and sound like all sylvania's sound slightly metallic to me but if you're into music like Enya, there is nothing better.
My favorite 6SN7 is the Ken Rad Black Glass VT231.
More on Rectifiers:
The Bendix 6106 is great. Good strong bass... nice mids, nice highs. Overall, I'd say this is the best choice for use in the Supratek but.. there are situations where the Bendix will absolutely not work. Some tube combos just clash with the Bendix and the pace / timing of the music goes crazy.
The old GEC/MO-Valve/Cossor/Genalex/etc U54 is nice. Very nice! These are pretty rare.
Regulator tubes:
Any 6L6 variant will work and they all sound tremendously different. The best of the best are the GEC/Genalex KT66 if you want the ultra seductive liquid mids.. The WE or NU 350B for more brutal honesty - superb bass - a real "you are there" type of sound. Almost too much for me but its what I'm using now.
The Sylvania 5932 - three types - and they are all very good. The most common, black plate with holes variety is the most neutral and/or accurate / realistic sounding tube I've heard in this application except... neutral is boring.
The rare dual black plate version is almost as good as the GEC KT66 for liquidity and seductive sound but mixes in some of that accuracy for a nice blend. The black plate without holes version - I haven't spent too much time with but as far as I can tell, its similar to the "holed" version but offers a little more personality, character and as such is not as dull as the neutral holed version.
RCA Metal 6L6. Cheap & ugly. Wide soundstage but a bit thin & somewhat see-through.
As for the Syrah phono tubes - I do not have any experience rolling those so I cannot comment.
Ecclectique has in the past made some awesome "tube related" posts to this thread. Scan through his posts to get more insight on tubes. |
Ecmlee, Sorry to hear of your trouble. As you mention, Mick does bend over backwards to help in situations like yours but the shipping and import duties are ridiculous. My suggestion to you and others in the US who have issues with their Supratek would be to find a local technician who can diagnose and fix minor problems like these.
At one point Mick mentioned to me that he had a (growing) list of technicians in the US. I am not sure how that list has progressed or if he still uses the services of these technicians - perhaps you can inquire.
In some cases, Mick has paid for the repairs or provided reimbursement but the "high" cost some of these technicians charge frustrates Mick - especially when he believes the tech's did nothing.
Do some research and discuss with Mick. I am sure you'll find a solution that works for you. |
Power Cord for Supratek's! Grannyring - sorry I haven't replied to you about the power cord for the Syrah.... I have been waiting to determine if this new cord is better than the old. *I* think the old cord is better but the designer seems to think his new one is better..
Also, once you get through reading this, you'll understand why my recommendation of this cord was not as easy as just stating the name.
Here we go...
The cord I am using and recommend is called a Moray James PWR1.5. It doesn't do much to increase the bass but what it does do is magical on the Supratek. After you listen to a Supratek with this cord, you'll realize that the stock unit sounds dull and lifeless by comparison. The effects of this cord are a bit difficult to detect since they are not night/day tonality differences like many of the more popular "over the top" sounding power cords. Instead, this cord simply adds a very "happy" / "snappy" and/or lively character to the Supratek which once heard is difficult to live without.
Moray James can be reached at: morayj1@juno.com
He will most likely try to sell you on his new cord. I think the new one sounds similar in some ways but somehow is "cardboardy" and lacks that certain "happy" quality found in the old cord.
Caveats - In some cases, the cord can be somewhat "bright" (slightly) in some systems which lean in that direction - or have poor room acoustics. I have heard this cord in in multiple systems with multiple Suprateks and in each system it has been the best cord - period. My room is one of those with poor acoustics (hardwood floors) and as a result, I was forced to find a solution. The Moray James 1.5 straight into the wall (PS Audio Power Port Outlet) was a bit too much for me. I could have changed out the outlet but decided to go a different route. I used a DIY extension cord made from Carol 12/3 cable (warmish sounding), a 15A Male Furutech copper plug and a 15A Leviton female connector. This cord adds enough warmth to the Moray James to make it acceptable in my room and for my tastes.
Everyone else who has used this cord goes straight into the wall - no problemo - but they all have carpeted rooms.
On the Supratek specifically, this cord has sounded better than top of the line cables from Electraglide, Omega Mikro, Sahuaro, NBS, Shunyata, FIM, Harmonix, Cardas and others. I have not compared this cord to David Elrod's cords yet.
Should you decide to try this cord, please be sure to specify that you want the OLD PWR1.5 cord! Also, be sure to get Moray to commit to a 30 day trial..
If anyone would like more information or is interested in discussing this further, I would be happy to assist - just go ahead and email me. |
Fiddler?? Which type of Mullard GZ34 do you use? I mean, is there any particular vintage? Can you describe it? That's one rectifier I've never tried - I couldn't hear enough of a difference between the GZ37, GZ33 and GZ32 that I skipped right over the GZ34. Perhaps that was a mistake.
114 more posts to top 1K. |
Hey Grannyring! Great review! Are you SURE you don't have a Cortese? The photos of your pre are dead on CORTESE!!
I've compared the Cortese and Syrah extensively and must say that the sonics of each are quite similar - very little difference from a tonal standpoint. The Cortese is quieter, more solid and refined but aside from that.... its not really what *I* would call "better" if sheer value is what you seek. It is however better in a more intangible way - difficult to explain. At a certain point in this hobby we begin paying big bucks for certain refinements which are ultimately, not necessary unless the rest of a system climbs above a certain level - which exceeds the performance of the lower-priced-less-refined component. I've been up and down with my system and there was a time when I felt my Chardonnay was perhaps the weak link. I have yet to feel that way with the Cortese.
As for the NOS tubes.... Glad you like the Ken's. They're great but they are an acquired taste.. (I believe that's what Asa was referring to in above posts) There are many great tubes to try & when you identify a combo which complements your system & tastes, put it up to the CJ again and you'll be amazed at how much better the Syrah becomes - then, stick those tubes in the Cortese and you're likely to understand why the Cortese is twice as expensive. There is just something unquestionably right about it.
The prices for NOS tubes (350B's) is scary.... but I would expect them to last a lifetime when used in the Supratek. So... a 200-300 investment isn't all that bad for the gains.
Other tubes to try - relatively inexpensive...
Regulator
Sylvania 5932 double black plate (nice)
Philips 7581A (massive impact! & dynamics)
Rectifier
Bendix 6106 (mixed reviews - but still worth trying)
RCA 5V4G (clear, open and detailed) |
Thanks for the reply Fiddler! Looks like I'm going GZ34 / 5AR4 shopping!! :) Loving the 350B's right now after a few power cord changes in my system.
Do you have the National Union 350B or the Western Electric 350B? I'm currently using the NU but the box says they were "Manufactured by Western Electric Co. Inc." and packaged in March 1945.
Some folks claim the WE is flat out better - others say there is no difference - same tube, different label. I am curious to know your thoughts on this. |
Jewel... My take is that if you can buy good used tubes to try, DO IT. When rolling tubes, you'll want to sample as many as possible. Buying NOS, or NIB tubes is way too expensive - especially if they end up not fitting your tastes.
Once you nail down the best tubes for your system, then you can buy NOS versions... and a few back ups. |
Hkvos, If you buy a Supratek, ask Mick if he can make it with TWO of the home-theater by-pass features. This would require a three-way switch vs. the standard two-way switch on units with the home-theater by-pass feature. This would let you connect the Wadia "direct" to your amp through one of the Supratek's by-bypass inputs and the home-theater through the other. You would be able to control volume from the Wadia or HT instead of relying on the Supratek. The Supratek doesn't even need to be on.
Additionally, you could run the analog outputs of the Wadia into the CD input on the Supratek for a different flavor. Sweet! |
Swampwalker - This may seem pretty basic but this "problem" sounds like the wrong input is selected via the knob on the right front of the preamp. You could be hearing cross talk between the active input and the currently selected input.
Check that you do not have the RCA cables from your EMC1 plugged into the wrong RCA inputs on the Syrah - that ones you used to have them plugged into. Double-check.
Also, if your Syrah has balanced output, the RCA/XLR switch in the back between the RCA outputs and the XLR outputs could be flipped to the middle or toward the XLR make sure it is toward whatever output you use... RCA or XLR.
If all connections and input selections are correct, try turning off the preamp, unscrewing the DC power cord from both the power supply and the preamp - and then re-attach.
Sometimes if the DC power cord is not connected properly, everything appears to work (tubes light up) but nothing can be heard. |
Swampwalker - 6L6 type tubes all have a "missing" 6th pin and some 5881's I've seen have a missing 1st pin as well. Normal. |
Swampwalker - Guess I was trying to say that maybe your input selector switch (front right knob) was on the wrong input. I know this is silly but it happens. Sometimes when we switch cables around we mistakenly put them back on the wrong input. |
Sorry, I had to ask about the inputs - I realize its a trivial thing.
If the DC power cord is connected properly and not mis-aligned, then perhaps there is a real problem.
I wonder if this could have been caused by tubes which are shorted.
Did you by chance remove the 6L6 tubes and play the Supratek to see if that solved the problem? |
Hi Swampwalker, Actually I may have an umbilical that might work for you. Its from a Chardonnay and its 10 feet long. Its worked on a friends Syrah and it may work on yours.
Some of the umbilicals are slightly different than others depending on how the motorized remote control & board gets its power. This cord should work in your preamp but you may not be able to use the remote (if you have one).
I would be happy to send you the cord but it might be faster to just have yours fixed locally by a technician.
Let me know. |
Hi Slowhand, Here are some pictures of the Tung Sol Round Plate tubes grouped with some other tubes: Photo OnePhoto TwoThe images are not terribly high resolution but might give you some idea of what to look for. Look closesly at the tops of the tubes to see the U shaped plates which are visible in Photo Two - at the very top of the tube - above the Mica spacers. |
Jewel, Glad you're having fun! Finding good 6SN7's is actually quite difficult because most are microphonic in the Syrah. I estimate that 1 out of 10 6SN7's you'll find will be troublesome. |
Jewel - *I* liked the KenRad Black Glass tubes and I like the Tung-Sol Round Plates. They are both very good choices. Honestly, the stock 6Sn7's sound a bit like a cross between both tubes - somewhat closer to the Tung-Sol but less harmonically complex. The Tung-Sol Round Plates are sweeter, more open, and have less midrange bloom than the Ken Rads. Ultimately, the tubes you choose as "best" will depend 100% on your listening preference and the rest of your system. No-one can tell you what is best for YOU. It is good to attempt to determine what character your system needs before seeking out tubes. I don't know what the rest of your system is so its difficult for me to determine (guess) its sonic signature. Even if I did know what your system consisted of, odds are your listening preference is different than mine to some respects and my choice in tubes would not be correct for you. So.. that said, with the stock tubes in your Supratek, what elements do you think would be beneficial to your system? Be cautious when buying "names/model numbers" of tubes vs. construction of tubes. Often times a tube will carry a specific number yet the internal construction may be different. The Tung-Sol Round Plate referrs to a specific construction or type of Tung-Sol 6SN7GT which is to my knowledge MUCH different sounding than the more common "black glass" Tung-Sol 6SN7GT. Vingage is also important. Tubes can sound different from one another, even on a month-to-month basis in some cases - ie; January manufacture sounds different than February. To me, a matched manufacture date is VERY important otherwise the tubes, however identical in appearance, can sound somewhat different. Also... matching the electrical ouput is important because the L/R channels on the Supratek cannot be biased. A severely mis-matched pair of tubes could result in a soundstage that leans to one side or the other because the gain on one channel is greater than the other. Likewise - just because a tube is a "6F6G" doesn't mean its THE 6F6G that everyone is talking about. THE 6F6G you want, I believe is the Sylvania 6F6G - clear glass - green print or the somewhat different - National Union black glass 6F6G. Ebay is a GREAT place to research tubes and to get more familiar with the internal construction. For an example, go do a search on Ebay for "6F6G" and see how many different versions there are. |
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Lisbon, The regulator tubes (6L6/6F6/KT66,etc.) will not increase the microphonics at all. |
Hi Cello, The best power cord I have found for the Supratek's is the Moray James PWR 1.5. The manufacturer has recently changed his design and claims it would be cost prohibitive to continue producing the 1.5 in small lots for those who request it. I have had his upgraded version (a PWR 2.5) for a number of months and find it to be NOT very good in this application - or any other.
The Manufacturer has sent me an even newer version of the PWR 2.5 with modifications to make it similar to the PWR 1.5 - but it has not yet arrived. So I do not have a comment on that yet.
The only problem with this manufacturer is that the designs keep changing. In Fact, I wouldn't be too certain that if I purchased a new PWR 1.5 today, if it would be the same cord I have had for the past year.
Sorry I wasn't more helpful on this. |
Great interconnects for the Supratek... I've owned many -
On a recommendation from Asa many years ago, I've come to prefer the Audio Note's (AN-Vz, KSL-LP1) CD to Pre, followed by high(er) end NBS interconnects to the amp. That combo has always produced great results no matter what other components I use. Today, I use Siltech Compass Lake followed by NBS Monitor 0 from the Supratek to the amp.
I do not believe that having a Supratek dictates a particular interconnect be used. Anything will work in that application. It's mostly a matter of your personal tastes which determine what interconnect is best for you & your system. |
The latest Supratek preamps fitted with HT-Bypass have a switch on the top plate, near the back of the preamp, in-between the two transformer covers. By-pass only works when the switch is engaged and the Supratek doesn't even need to be powered on.
This most recent iteration of HT-Bypass on Supratek's is flawless. It provides ZERO gain - ZERO attenuation. |
Congratulations Saint! Glad to hear your wait is finally over. The wait is painful but makes the experience somewhat sweeter I suppose.
I am currently waiting for my turntable to be completed and I'm pretty excited about it. Judy Spotheim-Koreneeff sent me photos of it today as she was doing the final testing.
It should look magnificent next to the Supratek. |
Cello - if you're Cortese is like mine, it uses E180F (6688)and 6922 tubes for the phono section.
The stock Cortese tubes are actually pretty good compared to the expensive NOS variety. The differences in sound resulting from changes in phono tubes is less than the differences produced by the line stage tubes.
I've tried quite a few and I think the Telefunken CCa's in the 6922 position are (so far) the best for me. I use Mullard E180F's I picked up for 10 bucks on Ebay and they're okay... not much different than the stock tubes.
hope this helps. |
Lately (over on Audioasylum) there has been some talk of replacing the stock Supratek potentiometers (Alps) with a stepped attenuator. See URL: http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/101690.htmlI have in the past considered this as a potentially MASSIVE upgrade for the Supratek but was talked out of it by Mick. DACT now has some remote controlled stepped attenuators available and I'm wondering if this might be something worth trying. Has anyone tried this? I don't want to come out and say exactly why this would be a massive improvement - but I will say that if your Supratek has a new working version of the HT-Bypass, and you have an MP3 player (iPod type gizmo) connect it to the standard inputs as well as the HT-Bypass inputs and listen to the difference (massive improvement) bypassing the volume control makes. Of course using the HT-Bypass input on a Supratek bypasses the entire gain stage as well. |
Hi Fiddler - After I made the post I also went to the DACT website and looked for the remote & couldn't find it. I remember seeing this (months ago) for sale on a DACT distributors website as well as on DIYCable.com --- I couldn't find it on DIYcable.com either.
Maybe the motorized remote was discontinued. :( I'll need to look in to this.
If you have the HT-Bypass on your preamp try it with any source which can regulate its own volume and then compare the same source connected through the standard inputs. This will give you some idea of what the volume controls on a Supratek "sound like". |
Khrys, Would you be willing to pay twice the price (or more) for a Supratek preamp for the luxury of being able to hear it first?
A few weeks ago, Audiogon introduced the "Factory Direct" category and I think that is how Supratek first became involved in "advertising" on Audiogon. *I* can no longer find the "Factory Direct" category on Audiogon so I presume it was deleted for one reason or another and those who paid for the factory direct service were added to the "Showcase Dealer" category instead.
When I look at your system, I have trouble believing you were able to listen to each of your components before buying. *IF* you were able to listen to each component before buying, then I have to question your judgement since the way products sound in dealer showrooms is often far different than how they will sound in your system. *IF* you were able to audition the components at home, then I have to question the break-in factor - how much time did you allow for break-in and how long did you audition each component in your system before making the decision to purchase?
Or.. did you just read a review?
Or.. was it the pretty blue lights? |
Any standard power cord with a 15A IEC will work Supratek. Radio Shack sells 'em or you could just power down your computer, unplug it, and use that power cord.
In the long run, you'll want something better. |
The results are in. The NEW Moray James power cord is as good as the old one! Moray sent me four prototype power cords to test out on the Supratek (A,B,C and D). - from the four, I finally sellected one which was the best cord yet for the Supratek. Its not a cord which will change the tonal balance of your system. Instead it will give a life and character to your system which once you've heard what it does, is impossible to live without. I am happy to answer any questions you have so feel free to email me if you like... but Moray James is the guy who builds them and sells them - not me. If you are interested, please email Moray at morayj1@juno.com Just let him know its for a Supratek. I think he may have it in him to offer an introductory price (not sure) as well as a 30 return policy. |
