Preamp Deal of the Century

Amandarae, I used the GEC KT66's and thought they were good, but the all metal 6L6s were better and the WE 350B's are by far the best.

I could have lived with the GEC's had I not tried the metal 6L6s or the 350Bs. Its been a while, but as I recall the tonality wasn't dead-on. But they beat the heck out of the stock tubes.

Khrys, it seems you are still determined to trash this thread. Have you owned a Supratek? Why are you so critical?

If I recall, you apologized once in this thread already for being a pain in *&^ @#% after offending some people. And here you go again. If you don't have anything constructive to say or have no real interest in a Supratek product, why continually jump in here just to stir crap up!

Bwhite, that's a very interesting post.

When I first ordered my preamp I told Mick that I had a DACT attenuator that I purchased for a Foreplay kit that I had never used. I asked him if he would install it when he built my preamp. He said he would but that it would be inferior to the one he built for the Supratek.

As good as the DACT is supposed to be, I was suprised at his answer. Maybe I will try it since I have it. Shouldn't be to hard to implement.

BTW, I went to the DACT website and couldn't find a "remote controlled" DACT. I have a CT1, but I would purchase a remote control if they have one.

After Bwhite's suggestion that a DACT attenuator could possibly improve the Supratek, I decided to install the DACT CT-1 (100K Ohm) attenuator that I originally purchased for my Foreplay preamp kit (never built it).

BTW, my unit came with an Alps Blue 100K pot.

Well, I installed it Monday morning and it took all of 45 minutes. Easiest upgrade I think I have ever done and I am a true neophyte with this stuff!

I will cut to the chase. The improvement is stunning. I won't bore you with a long littany of the usual audiophile verbiage, I will simply say if you don't do this easy mod you will never hear what the Supratek is truly capable of. I was hoping there would be a noticeable improvement, but I was listening to a different preamp after the mod than before the mod.

The stock pot was masking the soul of this preamp and consequently the soul of the music. I sat listening to music this morning that I had heard numerous times before and I simply couldn't believe how much more music was there. Okay, a few worn-out cliches. Much greater transparency, lower noise-floor, the music was much smoother and just seemed to flow. The soundstage was noticeably deeper and a haze seemed to be missing. Really wasn't aware a haze was there until it was gone. Wait to you hear cymbals with the DACT !

Also the tonality was improved with the notes being produced much more solidly. Everything simply seems richer, fuller, more 3D...okay enough already, you get the point.

If you can solder, you can do this mod, it's that easy. It will be the best 150 bucks you ever spent.

BTW, at each step there is a burn in period of the resistor, but things get really, really good within an hour of being on a step. And I assume the DACT may improve even more with time.

Thanks for the suggestion Bwhite !!!!

It didn't until you posted #1164.

Well said, Jazzdude.

Mlkiz, we all waited. So should you if you want the "Preamp deal of the Century". If you cancel it will be your loss.

Bwhite, your comments echo my sentiments about the Alps.

I'm not sure what attenuators Mick has tried, but the DACT is 3db steps. Certainly not a problem in my system.

I also by-passed the selector switch and tape monitor switch about a week ago and it was another step in transparency. I only use the CD input, so I went straight from the input to the DACT.

If you do a search at AA about the Alps Blue pot I think you will discover what many others found out about the Alps. It seems to add a layer of grain and/or veils to the music. Everyone who changed it to something else noticed a major improvement.

It seems it took the DACT about two weeks to fully burn in, but after that, no going back!

Since I have the Chardonnay, I think there will be enough room for the Bent remote control. I am going to try it when I have time.

Warren

Congrats, Cello. I have been running 350B's in my Supratek for a long time and nothing else has the magic the 350B's do. Sure they are expensive, but as you say, they should outlast everything else by two or three times or more.

Ecclectique, I am not familiar with the Cardas caps, but the Chris VH - V Caps that I mentioned have gotten rave reviews. Those are the Teflons I was referring to in my post.

At Mick's direction, I did replace two caps in my Chardonnay with Auricaps and I noticed a modest improvement.

When I try the V-Caps, I will post my impressions.

Just curious if anyone else ever tried replacing the stock pot with the DACT.

When I put the DACT in, I also rewired the input straight from the CD RCA directly to the DACT, by-passing the selector switch. (I only use one source)

I still can't believe the difference in transparency.

I have been considering trying some V Caps in my pre. Anyone had experience with them yet?

Brian,

You will be shocked after you get about 50-75 hours on the DACT. The transparency will take a huge leap. But with that comes the downside...exposing weaknesses elsewhere if you have any.

And I agree. After trying GEC KT66's about a month (I think) after receiving my Chardonnay, I made the leap immediately to WE 350B's. No comparison. I know they are expensive, but if you can't run with the big dogs, ya may as well stay on the porch.

Ethifi,

I need to qualify my last post.

I have the hi/lo gain switches on each channel inside my preamp, not on top. But I have the 6 position selector switch on the back like yours.

The only difference is that Mick apparently went to one external hi/lo switch instead of two internal switches. That would be much more convenient.

Ethifi,

It is not a new feature. My Chardonnay is exactly the same.

A question for you guys.

I have just received a new Berning ZH270 with the wire upgrade. Haven't received the cryoed tubes yet, Allan will be sending these in the next few weeks. I have about 6-7 hours on the amp and it is improving each hour. I am still scraping my jaw off the floor. With more break-in and cryoed tubes, I can't wait to hear the full potential of this amp. Maybe the wire upgrade makes a big difference, but I can't imagine anyone thinking this amp sounds lean. Not as syrupy as the ASL 845 I had, but the dynamics kill the 845. The bass simply ratttles the walls. Tubes aren't suppose to have this kind of bass!

But here is my reason for posting.

Have you guys noticed how long it takes for your Supratek to bloom after start-up. Mick says it is up to full speed in an hour, but my experience is that it takes a minimum of 4 hours, usually 5 for the bloom to happen. It sounds good upon start-up, but when the tubes bloom the soundstage expands considerably and the 3D, holographic images are amazing.

What is the general consensus as to how long you Supratek takes after start-up to open up and take on that life-like quality?

Swampwalker,

I had the same problem. It was DC on the line. I fixed it with a combination of the 'Ah! AC Offset Killer' and an isolation transformer. The 'Ah! AC Offset Killer' seemed to be 90% of the cure.

Now there is just a teeny hum that you have to listen very carefully to hear. I mentioned this fix to Mick soon after I got my Supratek and he said he would look into it. Not sure what happened after that.

Brian, the noise was a mechanical hum from the transformer in the power supply of my Supratek. Rather loud. Now there is just a faint hum that you can hear if you put your ear near the hole in the top of the power supply.

Before I could easily hear the transformer humming from my listening chair. And BTW, the AC Offset Killer didn't seem to affect the dynamics at all, nor did it seem to add any coloration.

I used solution B.

I have received emails from an individual who has heard both the Exemplar and the H-Cat and he said he had never heard such garbage. I have no dog in this fight, but I trust and respect the opinion of the source.

TBG (Norm) are you still a dealer for Exemplar? (I know you were listed as a dealer on their website at one time). I am sure very few are aware of that fact! As I recall, an AA board member warned you to register as a dealer and to stop saleshacking for Exemplar on the Asylum.

And do you have any financial or personal arrangement with Roger (H-Cat)?

Several "good ears" who have heard both the Exemplar and H-Cat have had wildly varying experiences (bad) as compared to yours. As I said in an earlier post, maybe some people may prefer another preamp over the Supratek, but I don't ever remember anyone saying a Supratek sounded, weird, strange, unnatural, etc. as some have described the H-Cat. But then again, I suspect they have no "incentive" to report anything other than the facts.

About a year and a half ago (or so), I emailed Mick and asked him what upgrades he had done to the Chardonnay. He told me that the biggest upgrade he had made was switching to Auricap capacitors. He told me which two caps would make the biggest difference to change in my pre and I switched them for Auricaps. Noticeable improvement.

Well, I have been hankering to try Mundorf Silver Supremes in the Auricap position for at least six months. Well, I finally put them in this week. &%*#@$$! What a difference.

The Mundorfs simply blew the Auricaps away. There was a nice improvement when I put the Auricaps in, but to say there is an improvement with the Mundorfs is an understatement. These caps sound like a component upgrade!

The 3D palpability is greatly increased, great clarity overall, turned my subwoofer down due to increase in bass resolution, considerably deeper soundstage and greater separation of instruments. One of the best changes I have ever made.

Some time ago, I bypassed the selector switch and I am now going straight from the CD input to a DACT (highly recommended). The DACT and the straight input made a big difference in clarity. The Mundorfs made a bigger difference everywhere! The music just flows now.

I highly recommend taking 30 minutes to change a couple of caps if you are so inclined. My Chardonnay doesn't even sound like the same pre.

Ecclectique:

"I have saved the best for last as rewiring the tube socket is in order here to accomodate the 7193! The 7193 triode is a strange looking octal tube with plate and grid caps on the the top of the glass. These are electrically equivalent to a 6j5 single triode or 1/2 of a 6sn7. They were munufactured by RCA, NU, kenrad and tungsol as far back as the early 1930's.Many were used in old Juke boxes in their day as well as some early 50's tv sets. This tube just stomps on any 6sn7! Simply said.... there is no going back once you hear it. It's like comparing a telefunken ecc803 to a ge 12ax7, or a we350b to a 6L6. Halographic like no other,dead quiet,microphonics are non existant, super liquidity with incredible clarity,a silky sweet top end that floats into your room,the bass energy and drive of the kenrad vt-231 but far crisper and 3 times as tight. I use the cortese in my main system with my very efficient Tannoy Westminster's driven by VAC pa-90 monos employing the genelex kt-77 output tube. With the 6sn7's in the preamp I have very little room for play with the volume control whereby a single 6j5 is perfect for my application. I have unsoldered the other socket whereby I use only 1 6j5/channel."

You really got my attention with this post.

I have the gain on the "low" setting on my Chardonnay and I still can't turn the volume up past 9 o'clock. I would love detailed info on how to convert my Supratek to use the 7193.

I would appreciate any feedback you have time to provide.

Jazzdude,

Sorry for the delay.

I purchased the Mundorfs from Madisound.

I can't remember if the cap values were on the stock caps or not. The stock caps were two small square caps about the size of a box of matches mounted on their sides. They are wired on one end from another larger, square cap and wired to the tube socket on the other end. They are located in the very front of the preamp.

As I recall Mick gave me the original location and value of the caps. They are 1 uf caps.

Mick could probably give you better info than me :o , but the difference in my Supratek is staggering by just replacing these two caps.

Simon,

I tried the GZ37. It was even mushier and muddier than the Mullard GZ34/5AR4. It was a total waste money, IMHO. The overall dynamics were very weak compared to the 6106.

In my system, the 6106 adds much cleaner and more immediate dynamics with a much more palpable 3D presentation than either the GZ34 or the GZ37. No comparison in the soundstage. YMMV

You guys may think I'm nuts, but I just recently purchased a low-noise pair of EH 6SN7's to try on a lark. One of my '52 Syl "Bad Boys" that I had in place was spitting (it cleared up fortunately).

I have another pair of '52 Syls and two pair of Ken Rads, plus a pair of Tung Sol Round Plates on the way, but I was just curious about the EH 6SN7's.

Well, after about 30 hours of burn-in, I swear, I think they are better than the '52 Syls or the Ken Rads (at least in my system). Excellent, tight bass, liquid mid-range and extened, grain-free highs and very detailed.

I was expecting them to have sub-par bass and to be somewhat etched with grainy highs. Wrong on all counts.

I remember a long time ago, soon after I got my Supratek, I posted an opinion that the rectifier and the regulators have a much greater affect on the sound than the 6SN7's. I am still convinced of that.

I think the EH's are better than the '52 Syls or the Ken Rads, but only slightly so. I have to listen really critically to determine a difference. Time will tell about the Tung Sols, but I know I won't be buying anymore NOS 6SN7's for my Supratek any time soon.

You guys can all jump in and tell me I am crazy now, but that's the way I hear it.

Amandarae,

They are the regular black base.

I know they make a gold "pin" version, but I have heard that the gold pins are actually the "standard version" with the pins just painted gold. After inserting the pins into a tube socket once, the gold is supposedly scraped off.

I purchased the tubes from Upscale Audio. I paid for the "Private Reserve" (which might be complete BS), but they are very quiet at the moment. Only $10 more per tube for the "Private Reserve", so why not?

http://www.upscaleaudio.com/product.asp?itemid=53&catid=46

Let me know your impressions. I will be very curious.

I am stunned at how good this pair sounds in my Supratek. Assuming they hold up, as I said before, I have purchased my last pair of NOS 6SN7's. (Well, I haven't heard the Tung Sols yet.)

I think I screwed up!

I just got a pair of NOS Tung Sol Round Plates in today and I don't like them at all. They are rather lean in the mid-range and somewhat bright in the high frequencies.

I am hoping these symptoms disappear after the tubes have some time on them. But to be honest, after about two hours, I couldn't take it any longer and I put the EH 6SN7's back in. Viola, I had the music back.

I would appreciate hearing your experience with the Round Plates.

Thanks in advance.

First thing I did right out of the box was to compare them to pics. Yep, they appear the real deal.

Maybe they just need some time on them, but I did read another post in the Asylum where a guy said they were bright in his system.

I also received an email earlier today from another guy who said " have used a couple of different pair of round plates in my Syrah. Both noisy, lousy bass, I don't know what the hoopla is about. I now use Hytrons. Pretty good."

So like always, so much is system and listener dependent.

I will eventually give them some more burn-in time, but I am really enjoying the EH 6SN7's.

Jgk1017,

I installed Mundorf Silver Supremes several weeks ago and they made a huge difference. They simply killed the Auricaps that I had in their place.

A quick question. I installed a DACT attenuator in my Supratek a long time ago and it was another huge improvement. What attenuator or pot does the Grange come with?

Jgk1017,

A remote control is available for the DACT.

Jgk1017,

Here is the link:

http://www.bentaudio.com/index2.html

Bent Audio has an outstanding reputation

Vetterone,

I did notice a change during burn-in of the DACT. It sounded cleaner and clearer from the moment I put it in, but as I recall, it seemed to improve over 50 hours or so. But that's just my recollection. I can't say for sure that it was 50 hours; all I can say for sure is that it did improve with time.

The cheap Alps pot that came in my Chardonnay was fuzzy around the image edges as compared to the DACT. Consequently the imaging seemed a little more holographic with the stock pot, but clearly "less focused" than with the DACT. That may not make sense, but I will try to put it another way. The stock pot seemed as if I was listening to my system "slightly" out of phase as compared to the DACT.

I clearly prefer the DACT and I suspect now that it is fully burned in, the DACT might possibly better the Alps pot with the "holographic" thing, as well. I would have to put the stock pot back in to find out and that ain't gonna happen.

It is true that "precise imaging" of the soundstage IS NOT the way "live" music is typically rendered. Images usually seem unfocused with "live" music reproduction. But I believe ours eyes compensate for the lack of soundstage focus as they help to precisely render the sounds "we hear" with the images "we see" in our brain.

When I am listening at home, I don't have the advantage my eyes give me "live", so PRECISE imaging in my system helps enhance the illusion of "real" since my eyes can't help my brain render the soundstage. (Not sure if that makes any sense to anyone else, but that's how it seems to work for me! LOL)

So back to the DACT.

I much prefer precise imaging in my system. Could it be more hi-fi to someone else...? Sure. I guess it's just a matter preference. But one thing's for sure, I couldn't stand the fuzz of the Alps! I did a long search online before choosing the DACT and virtually every post I read extolled the virtues of the DACT over any pot. But to each his own and if Mick prefers the Alps to a DACT, who am I to argue with him!

The stock pot did have the convenience of minute volume adjustments compared to the DACT. In my system, the steps on the DACT can be a little louder than I would like, but the good news is that I can adjust the volume on my Berning ZH270 to compensate.

Now to the Mundorfs.

The difference they made in my preamp was huge. I am glad to hear Mick is now using them. I am about to try them in my Audio Note DAC in place of the Audio Note Copper caps that I used when I originally built my DAC. I will post my impressions after they burn in. I don't know if they will be superior to the AN Coppers or not, but after the difference the Mundorfs made in my Supratek compared to the Auricaps, I'm sure gonna find out!

Tom, why would I have heard from this connection?

Ecclectique,

How long did you leave the EH6SN7s in? I thought they were berry, berry good right out of the box, but they really bloomed after a month.

I have numerous NOS 6SN7s: Tung-Sol Round Plates, 52 Syls, etc. among others and I prefer the EHs to all of them. They really came into their own after a hundred hours or so (I'm just guessing here, but they did take quite some time to really become outstanding.)

I know you are far more experienced than I am when it comes to tubes, but I thought I would just offer you my experience.

Mechans,

Feel free to open a NEW thread on Chinese preamps!

I suspect most involved in this thread are involved because of their ownership of or specific interest in Suprateks. Nuff said.

For Berning & Supratek users:

I recently removed one pair of my TF ECC 801s in my Berning ZH270 and replaced them with a pair of 60's Mullard 12AT7s from Andy.

I also just put a new EG Epiphany on my Berning.

The Epiphany is amazingly transparent, but I am getting a hardness in the upper midrange and treble that wasn't there before.

It could be just a break-in issue of the tubes and/or the Epiphany. I only have about 20 hours of playing time on each and probably about 100 hours of idle time on each.

I can be patient during break-in, but if anyone can confirm that the Epiphany or the Mullards may possess the hardness I am hearing, I will simply remove the offending piece from my system.

Thanks in advance.

Simon74,

Which Electraglide did you try with your Syrah?

Steve,

Did the Grange lose out to the Steelhead?

"Judy and mustang, this is really the pot calling the kettle black. Do you guys have an altar with the Supratek on it to which you pray?"

That's about the most hypocritical post I have ever read here!

Tbg, they may have an altar with the Supratek on it, but it sure as heck ain't as big as the one you have with the H-Cat on it!

Uh-oh...I just brought up the H-Cat, now the salesshacking will begin again.

Sorry guys...what was I thinking.

"infamous ways trying to browbeat others to their point of view."

Once again, it defies imagination that you would be the one to complain about "browbeating others".

Some people are simply in denial about THEIR own actions.

And regardless of whether anyone "worships" Supratek or not, Judy was absolutely right about Theaudiotweak. He consistently raves here about equipment he sells and slams equipment he doesn't. No browbeating on Judy's part to point out the truth.

Muralman,

I think everyone here appreciates your opening salvo about the Fire preamp. No problem.

However, it would probably more appropriate to start a new thread specifically addressing the Fire preamp rather than hijacking the Supratek thread. You know the old saying, "there is a time and a place..."

Ditto Slowhand - Forward - definite difference in dynamics.

Has anyone implemented or researched the Welborne Remote Control?

http://welbornelabs.com/remote.htm

I installed a DACT in my Chardonnay which was a huge step up in transparency over the stock Alps Blue Pot. I have considered the remote option for the DACT, but the Welborme remote would offer more steps of attenuation.

My greatest concern would be a reduction in transparency, but Ron Welborne seems to think his remote would be equal to the DACT in transparency.

Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated.

It has been my experience that the regulators affect the sound much more than any of the 6SN7's. Yes, the WE 350B's are very expensive, but worth it, IMHO. The Genelex KT66's aren't even close to the WE's in my system. Since I have the 350B's, I haven't tried the 6F6's.

As far as the 6SN7's go, I have tried them all. The EH 6SN7's kicked out the Kenrad blackglass and Tungsol roundplates. Still have the Kenrads and the Tungsols, but they are sitting in a box. The EH's are just as good as the 'Rads and Tungsols and better than everything else.

It is my opinion that in most any other application the Kenrads and Tungsols would probably best the EH's, but I simply believe the 6SN7's contribute very little to the sound in the Supratek as compared to the regulators and the rectifier. Having rolled them all, I wish I had saved a bunch of monney on NOS 6SN7's and bought the EH's in the first place. Taking the money I wasted on NOS 6SN7's, I could have bought 3 pairs of WE350B's which do greatly affect the sound of MY Supratek.

Not trying to argue with Ecclectique, just offering a different experience.

Sorry about the typos and grammatical errors. Obviously didn't proof this one very carefully! Anyone know if there is an edit function?

I just replaced the 1.0 uf caps in my Chardonnay with V-Caps (teflons). Wow, wow, wow!

I had previously replaced the stock Alps pot with a DACT attenuator. Rather large improvement.

I also rewired direct from the CD input to the DACT (by-passing the selector switch since I only use one source) with gold alloy wire. Another nice improvement, especially in clarity and tonality (a signature of the gold alloy wire).

I had previously replaced the stock 1.0 uf caps with Auricaps. Nice improvement over the stock caps. Then I replaced the Auricaps with Mundorf Silver Supremes. Much bigger improvement than the Auricaps.

But about a week ago I replaced the Mundorfs with the V-Caps. The V-Caps are expensive as caps go, but I have never spent better money on my system, ever. My Supratek doesn't even sound like the same preamp. Better yet. My system doesn't even sound like the same system.

The openness, clarity, detail, realism, etc. is staggeringly better. I have been reading about how good the V-Caps were, but I didn't think they could be that much better than the Mundorfs. Wrong!

Before I purchased the V-Caps, I emailed Chris Ven Haus about the long break in. He said the break in issues had been over-rated and he referred me to Ralph Karsten's (Atma-sphere) post confirming the hyperbole about the V-Cap break in. I must say after one week, the V-Caps are simply fabulous.

I would highly recommend the DACT attenuator to any Supratek owner and definitely the V-Caps. My preamp is so much better now than before these two changes that I simply can't imagine how I enjoyed it before. The difference is that great in my system. YMMV.

I have been so ecstatic about the V-Caps in my preamp that I can't wait to change the output caps in my Audio Note DAC. I ordered them at the same time that I ordered the caps for my Chardonnay, but I wanted to give the caps and my system time to adjust before I made another change. Now I can't wait. As soon as I return from vacation the V-Caps will go in my DAC the first day I am back home.

I replaced the 1.0uf caps (only two in my version of the Chardonnay).

They cost $176 a piece if you buy two of them.

http://v-cap.com/tefloncapacitors.html

I installed them myself in less than an hour. Relatively easy to do if you can solder. You simply have to remember which solder points the stock caps are removed from and to re-solder to the same points. Mick told me a long time ago that these two particular caps (1.0uf) would make the most difference to upgrade. He was right. I just wish I had installed the V-Caps when I had previously installed the Mundorfs.

Sorlowski,

I'm not sure which caps you have in your preamp. My Chardonnay had the stock cap Mick was using about two years ago. He then told me that he found the Auricaps to be better. I installed them. They were better. (I am hesitant to point you to the specific caps as your unit may be different than mine, but they are the output caps off of the tube sockets in my unit).

However, after reading opinions about the Mundorfs vs. Auricaps, the Mundorfs seemed clearly the superior cap. I tried them. Sure enough, they were considerably better than the Auricaps. The Auricaps were fuzzy by comparison.

I had read rave reviews about the V-Caps for some time. I finally decided to try them. They are huge improvement over the Mundorfs and on another planet from the Auricaps. Simply do a search. With only one exception I can find, everyone seems to agree the V-Cap is simply in another different league than any other cap. It certainly is in my experience. And if you read the reviews from a number of highly regarded manufacturers, the V-Caps have no equal.

Regarding your question, which is better - the DACT or V-Caps. Hard to say. I installed the DACT long ago. Had I installed the V-Caps first, the DACT may have made as much difference as the V-Caps, but in the order that I installed them the V-caps made an amazing difference. I honestly believe based on other component upgrades I have made, the V-Caps alone made more difference than a $7,000 component upgrade I made about two years ago.

Amandarae, the V-Caps significantly improved the tonality of my unit, especially the piano. Not to mention the overall clarity. But I can understand your reluctance to change your unit. The Supratek in stock form is terrific, but I feel like my unit is so much better now it's not funny. Remember that Mick has to weigh parts selection based on a target price point of a particular unit. Using a DACT and V-Caps in a Chardonnay would probably increase the price of the unit by $600-$700 (with mark-up) if not more. But IMHO, the product can be improved if one is willing to spend the money.

Having said all that, in the end you may prefer a stock unit over an upgraded unit, but my ears tell me it's no contest. And just to give you a frame of reference, I prefer the cleanest, most transparent, detailed and tonally accurate preamp I can get. I am much closer to that now than I was with a stock unit.

Sorry for not replying to any emails about the V-Caps or related posts here, but I am in the mountains of Montana with very limited access to the internet. Will reply when I return.

Tbg,

Why the irrelevant post here on the Supratek thread?

Nevermind...it was a rhetorical question. Enjoy your sound "manipulating" preamp. I'll stick to my preamp that doesn't use some Rube Goldberg contraption to alter the signal with nonsensical, pseudo scientific explanations.

Norm,

I'm not sure, but I don't think the post was really meant for you. Re-read it carefully and I think you may come to the same interpretation that I did.

I owe Ecclectique and apology.

For quite some time he has posted his preference for the Tung Sol 6SN7 RP. I have posted in reply that in my system the EH 6SN7 was the equal of the Tung Sol.

Well, recently my right channel EH 6SN7 began spitting and popping. I went online to order more. In the mean time I broke out my NOS tubes. I took out the Tung Sol RP plates and popped them in.

After 10 minutes I continued to shake my head asking myself what did Ecclectique hear in this tube that was so great? But I left them in and left my preamp own for about 3 days. When I finally had time to listen again I hit the play button and WOW! Okay, now we got sumpin'...more detail, extreme clarity, layering of the soundstage and much more "you are there".

In the past when I put the RPs in I would try them for an hour and pull them out. They always sounded thin and uninvolving to me. It appears that I simply did not give them time to open up. I assumed that even though they were sold to me as NOS, I figured that they probably had some hours on them and were already run in.

Ecclectique, my apologies. I was wrong and you were absolutely right. The Tung Sol RPs are much better than the EH 6SN7s.

I have always taken your advice very seriously, but I just didn't understand your excitement about the RPs. Now I do and I appreciate your persistence in posting about the RPs.

The only caveat to my RPs are that they are rather microphonic and they have a lot of tube hiss. My goal now is to find two more pairs that are NOS, low noise and microphonics. So the search begins!

Stiltskin, after you sober up you might want to try posting again. $1500 for WE 350Bs...te he he he.

Tell ya what, I'll trade ya a CJ PV 2a for the 350Bs. Have you seen what vintage CJs are going for now...if you can find one! Especially in Norte America.