As a reference tool in order to test the need for an active preamp, its good to start by a plain carbon logarithmic 50kOhm potentiometer and matching Belden 1800F cheap interconnects (14pf) that you can DIY. If you like most of this nude clean & sharp focused style, but you can't stand seeing the pot at max setting, you can simply replace the logarithmic with a linear potentiometer.
The active pre gives very big bodies to voices and instruments but steals the air around them. Also it spreads the width in a surround style at the expense of clean image focus. The personal taste here determines the path, but its good to investigate your own before buying an active pre.
Me I prefer it this way.
When I need to further boost midrange body, I make footers 5x5 cm (0.3ply/1cork/0.3ply). When I want to dry things up, I add pure graphite rings (chameleon) as footers.
I boost the dynamics with Yarbo SP-7000PW power cords, the detail with vishay naked resistors, the overall flow and liquidity with duelund version 2.0 hook-up wire, mundorf SGO & jupiter copper foil capacitors.
Preserving the timbre of tone with wbt next gen 0708Cu binding posts, and by avoiding the solder when it's possible (eg. by using non- solder RCA plugs, bananas, IEC inlet) and in general I prefer to rolling passive components in the signal path for tuning the sound to my taste.
Adding extra circuits being active or even passive (600 ohm line step-up) as extra signal amplification, allways comes with some extra sonic debris which is a handicap you can't manage to get rid off as long as it stays there.
This apply to mc cartridges also for the need of step-up or active pre-pre.
Another good reason for trying a carbon pot as volume controller before investing to active line preamplifier is: The signal purity it preserves, offers you in such a clean and easy way the true path to upgrade your set-up, you can not fooling your self no more by masking and hiding the problems by changing things only for the difference of sound.
God bless you all.
The active pre gives very big bodies to voices and instruments but steals the air around them. Also it spreads the width in a surround style at the expense of clean image focus. The personal taste here determines the path, but its good to investigate your own before buying an active pre.
Me I prefer it this way.
When I need to further boost midrange body, I make footers 5x5 cm (0.3ply/1cork/0.3ply). When I want to dry things up, I add pure graphite rings (chameleon) as footers.
I boost the dynamics with Yarbo SP-7000PW power cords, the detail with vishay naked resistors, the overall flow and liquidity with duelund version 2.0 hook-up wire, mundorf SGO & jupiter copper foil capacitors.
Preserving the timbre of tone with wbt next gen 0708Cu binding posts, and by avoiding the solder when it's possible (eg. by using non- solder RCA plugs, bananas, IEC inlet) and in general I prefer to rolling passive components in the signal path for tuning the sound to my taste.
Adding extra circuits being active or even passive (600 ohm line step-up) as extra signal amplification, allways comes with some extra sonic debris which is a handicap you can't manage to get rid off as long as it stays there.
This apply to mc cartridges also for the need of step-up or active pre-pre.
Another good reason for trying a carbon pot as volume controller before investing to active line preamplifier is: The signal purity it preserves, offers you in such a clean and easy way the true path to upgrade your set-up, you can not fooling your self no more by masking and hiding the problems by changing things only for the difference of sound.
God bless you all.