Nude Turntable Project

(It looks similar to a Denon DP-80 but I don't know if Denon made for Victor.)

JVC/Victor was one of the three major turntable manufactures, along with Technics and Sony, that made their turntables completely on their own. Other brands such as Denon had to rely on outside sources such as Micro Seiki or those "big three." It's about time people start giving JVC some credits and their DD tables are truly underrated. I'll take a JVC over Technics in the same price range any day! Enjoy the experiment.

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Rauliruegas: "What do you mean with "take the motor out" when the motor is integral part of the bearing/platter?"

I meant to take the bare motor out and route/extend the wires back to the electronics. It's a deconstructive or purist way of doing it. This way the motor truly has to "mount" to something without interacting the stock chassis. As I said, what you and Halcro have been doing is not really "nude" setup because the stock chassis is acting as a plinth. So there is a plinth in there, except people don't recognize it. I hope this makes it clear to understand.

Happy holidays!

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Another picture of the nude motor in the Denon DP-80.

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Aigenga, I think that's a better idea than the typical "nude" approach by putting footers underneath the bottom cover. Glad you got good result from that. I always maintain there's really no true "nude" turntable in a direct drive system because the turntable itself is a plinth in holding the motor. So the motor is the real nudist. What I really want to see is to take the motor out and put it in a plinth can compare that to a nude style a la Halcro and Raul.

Thanks for the nude pictures! :-D

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Lewm: "Where are the electronics? Show us what is at the other end of those wires coming off the bottom of the motor. Thx."

Here's a picture of the DP80 from bottom view of the gut. As shown, the motor has only three wires with a three-pin connector to connection "CN3" on one of the circuit boards.

Here are more pictures from the invaluable Japanese website Amp8.com

http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/denon/dp-80-3.htm

http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/denon/dp-80.htm


This approach of removing the raw motor from stock chassis to custom plinth has been done before, especially on the Technics SP-10Mk2 by Kaneta:

http://homepage2.nifty.com/~mhitaste/audiotop/audio_apparatus_page/sp-10mk2.html



P.S. One more thing about Denon or Sony direct drive turntables is that there's a tapehead to read the magnetic print on the platter inner-rim for the speed servo system so besides the motor wires needs to be rerouted and extended back to the stock chassis, the wire for the tapehead need that as well. I believe in the western world, the Mitch Cotter turntable uses the same concept using either a Technics or Denon DD table as the basis for the mod.

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Lewm: " I don't quite know how Steve managed to separate motor from chassis; it's not obvious from external inspection how that could be achieved without some cutting."

Here are many innards pictures of the Technics SP-10MK3 from Amp8.com. Just click on any one of the links to see repair and gut pictures of each unit.

http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/technics.htm


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Lewm: " Where the heck did you get these nice photos?"

All photos came from the Amp8.com website. You'll see more pix if you click on any of the links I posted earlier that says "ＳＰ−１０ＭＫⅢ". They are all hi-rez images so it will take a long time to load. The Vintage Knob, the website on all things Japanese, links many pictures to the Amp8.com site, too. It's a repair shop so the pictures are quite valuable in dissecting a unit. I am not repairing anything but those pictures are like porn to me as a gearhead. :-)

Some more pictures of the motor and bearing:
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-931.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-932.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-933.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-934.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-31l.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-5o.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/sp10mk35.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/sp10mk36.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-71u.jpg

The motor connector (CN598) is a 12-wire type plus the 2-wire connector (CN504) for the servo.
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-92b.jpg

Since you're an owner of a Kenwood L-07D, you might be interested in checking out hi-rez pix of its innards, too.
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/kenwood/kenwood.htm

Happy Holidays!

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Lewm: "I looked at a few of the URLs you provided and don't yet see how the Mk3 motor can be parted from the company of its chassis, but perhaps the info is there somewhere."

Here are couple pictures showing the SP10Mk3 motor wires can be detached from the connector next to the motor, whereas in SP10Mk2 the wires exit out of the motor and routed to the PCB.

http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-2g.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-21.jpg

Lewm: "Doing it for the DP80 promises greater rewards, because there we do have the issue of a hollow space under and around the motor housing. But re-establishing the tape head reading system is a ticklish business, I would think."

I agree. The DP80 holds great promise and you might like it even more after "replinthing" it. Yes, re-establishing the tapehead position will be tricky but not impossible. I have few Sony PS-8975 tables that I am tempted to try a new plinth but the tapehead issue is discouraging me so I moved on to other DD turntables for experiment...

Lewm: "Do you read Japanese?"

I can read Chinese but not Japanese. There are some Chinese characters, Kanji, that I can decipher but it's hard to understand in proper context. I just use Google Translate.

Amp8.com via Google Translate

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Lewm: "When I look at the two photos, I do not see where the chassis can be separated from the stators of the motor."

I don't own a Mk3 so all I can go by are the photos and judging by the pictures I don't see the motor as that much different from the Mk2, which I took apart many times, in terms of assembly. Looks like you can unscrew the four hex screws with the arrows to remove the motor. I am not a machinist but I don't see taking the motor out being that complicated... maybe very time consuming, but then again I don't own a Mk3 so I really don't know. The Mk3 is maybe too belabored for this kind of project. I recommend the MK2 motor, or JVC, Kenwood, or Pioneer motors.

http://i41.tinypic.com/2cy448h.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/aekwvk.jpg

Motor stator removed
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-a29.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-a2a.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-a2f.jpg

Bearing housing
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-a2b.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-a2c.jpg

Bearing shaft
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-a21.jpg

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More nice bearing pictures:
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-7e.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-410.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-61j.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-61g.jpg

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Motor picture:
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-51h.jpg

A unit under repair showing the bearing with exposed stator coil wires.
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-8j.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-8n.jpg
http://amp8.com/amp-etc/record/technics/jpeg/10mk3-8m.jpg

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I guess this souped up Technics SL-1200Mk2 also qualifies as a "nude" project:

http://www.inspirehifi.co.uk/inspirehifi/monarch_info_photos_price.html


Hi-Fi World review of the Inspire Monarch direct drive turntable.

Page 1

Page 2

Page 3


Some more pictures:

Guts exposed

New platter

Monarch with power supply

New plinth



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Halcro, sorry to disappoint you with the non-nudity. :)

The Technics SL-1200mk2 motor's stator is directly soldered to the circuit board so it's almost impossible to separate the motor independent from electronics. The SL1200 is, to me, a rather cheaper incarnation of its older siblings, the SL-1300mk2, SL-1400mk2, Sl1500mk2, and the armless SL-150mk2, which all have a heavier balanced platter and detachable motor. Those models already improved on the SL-1200mk2 so I feel it's misguided to go overboard on modding the best selling DD table of all time. If people want to improve the SL1200, just get those models or the SL-M2. Hey, it's their money...

Back to the Monarch plinth; it is not possible to denude the SL1200 without destroying the electronics. They were constructed as one piece. By the way, that metal enclosure in one of the pictures is the housing for the power supply. But the Monarch is still a fine example of taking the bare motor out of its stock chassis/plinth and install onto a new plinth. I suppose someone can mount the raw motor & electronics on a platform with some screws and call it a nude project. :)

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The TT-71 in the QL7 or QL-7A uses the same motor as the TT-81, except less sophisticated electronics. It's a good performer and I used to own several of them. I sold them all after comparing to other models with coreless motors such as QL-Y66F or QL-Y7, just not as smooth sounding but still very respectable and I much prefer that over any mid-priced Technics. The tonearm is underrated. Have fun with it, since you didn't pay much for it. Experiment away!

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