Try and Google Project Turntable Stereophile and you'll find a number of different reviews by them. However, I do acknowledge your point that they may exclude certain brands. This does not bother me, as they have their own business model and rely on advertising. They have a big presence, so need brands that fuel their engine.
For example, if you Google TW Acustic Stereophile, you won't find any dedicated reviews, but there are interest and show articles from them praising the sound of this equipment and other gear that also doesn't make it to review or recommendation. They may really love the sound, but perhaps these brands simply can't afford their advertising. This subject has been covered many times over the years.
Kenny