Audio is a luxury product. Obviously manufacturers take care of reviewers. It's part of capitalism. As a consumer you must be ruthless. Government intervention is not the solution. Just take a break if it stops being fun.
As an older guy I look at these older guys with their idioms and genuflections telling me some circuit board has a slightly bigger soundstage that is beautiful when it is angry. It's a sales job and a pretty decent one at that. I used to work for rich people. They eat that stuff up.