No bias reading, tubes lit up, no sound

What a great story though!  I'm interested to hear what you think of the classD amp too.. 

Thanks for the update. I have come close to ruining parts as my drill entered the chassis. I get it! 

Problem solved.  I must have rubbed the drill bit against the adjacent choke(transformer), which of course was shot...You know that sudden, forward motion right after you have just drilled through steel....Instead of trying to get a new one, the technician has completely rewound the whole transformer with even better wire and I am sure with that old, artisan-like technique as well.  As my system had been down for about two weeks and I have been listening to vinyl only on my second one in the garage( Elac B6, Yamaha R-S202 receiver, heavily modified Rega P25), I need to allow some time for the new wire and posts to run in before concluding whether all this was worth anything at all.  The technician just kept laughing at me as obviously most of the audiophile stuff he takes as just snake oil....But we all know better than that, right?  Cheers!!

Unfortunately, not.  I did fix the short to ground on each pole I caused(too much torque applied on the plastic threads) by using nylon washers so at least now that is solved.  We are presently stationed in the Netherlands and was lucky to find a guitar shop in a nearby town(nothing of practical use from google),whose elder owner once worked for Philips- reel-to-reel machines, amps, and the tube factory as well.  He called me this morning to say amp is ....fixed!!!  Didn't discuss what was done over the phone but the charge is.....280 euros.  Everything is so outrageously expensive here, at least for me.  But I am most happy, anyway.  I meanwhile purchased a Marantz HD Amp1 from Amazon(fearing I toasted the amp), with the Dutch Hypex class D modules, based on its 21century design and connectivity.  I hope I like its sound(as all the reviewers) enough to sell my Cayin although with all the upgrades in it, I have taken it to a few hifi shops in NL, Germany, and Belgium just for fun, and all the salesmen pretty much agreed that they have nothing in their stores under 5-6K that approaches  my amp sound-wise.....  May be a keeper for life, perhaps.
Will post how I broke it(still don't know) and what was done to it when I pick it up tomorrow.

Did you sort it out? 

I do not think it is another issue elsewhere in the amp. It is most certainly a grounding issue. Your rewire has upset the original grounding scheme. Go back and match what was done originally. Exactly. 

I thought they were, as the securing nut and washer on the inside of chassis ride on plastic threads, the conductive element being encapsulated inside.  However, I measured contact between the nut and the soldered wire, and when I loosened the nut there wasn't any contact anymore.  "Success", I thought,  but alas still no sound.  In off position, I am getting "0" measurement on my tester between any combination of ground, 4 or 8 ohm  posts, set for impedance/electrical contact.  I don't know if this is normal or because of the possible short now the output transformers are dead.......

Are your new posts isolated from the chassis? Touching anywhere around the positive posts could short the output out. Just a thought? Try putting it back like it was, see if you can get it to work again, then upgrade one piece at a time, so you can see exactly what caused it to stop. 

And on a second note, I noticed that although all tubes are lit, the output ones are not hot at all, and normally they are.  So may be some voltage is missing.....

Thank you for  your response.  There is only one fuse in this amp- at the mains IEC inlet. I started again and used a pure OCC copper pole from a spare Furutech IEC inlet to solder the four wires and then use it as a bridge between the negative poles....to no good result.  Clearly, problem is somewhere else-could be just a disrupted  connection but as I lack knowledge for this kind of diagnosis I will have to take it to a professional.....  I certainly hope that those Eichmann Pods and Furutech wire will definitely improve the amp as have all other prior mods.

I'm not familiar with your amp, but I'm not sure your new wiring scheme is the best way to go about things, especially with a capacitor in the mix.  If you're trying to get rid of the thin plate, I would take those four wires as well as the two coming from the binding posts and solder them all together at a common point.  That would mimic (electrically) the original layout, which your current scheme (as I understand it from what you've written) doesn't.  Also, do you have a fuse in the amp for the high voltage to the tubes?  This would be separate from the mains (AC) fuse.  If so, check that first to see if it's still good -- the vibration could have busted the internal wire.