Newbie needs advice choosing and biasing new tubes


Hi, I received my first tube amp today - a chinese made Yaqin MC-100B. Unfortunately one of the 4 KT88 tubes that came with it is damaged (glass smashed), despite the fact that everything was well packaged. Anyway, what I intend to do is seek out a replacement set of tubes tomorrow as I'm really itching to get my new 'toy' powered up and working. I'd appreciate some guidance on the following.

I've heard a lot about the Svetlana 'Winged C' KT88's and these are available at my local stockist. However, they also have the 6550C version - are these two types of tube really interchangeable? Which would you go for?

The tubes are sold in matched pairs. How would I install these? One matched pair in V1 and V2 and the other in V3 and V4?

The amp has testing points for each tube and an adjustment slot. The manufacturer states that the "working point setup of this unit shall be 0.55v-0.60v." Does that range apply regardless of which brand of tube is installed?

Any do's and don'ts that I should be aware of when setting the bias? I have a 'cheapish' digital multimeter. the instructions talk about setting this to DC1V and then adjusting the volume to minimum.

Is it dangerous to turn the amp on without all the tubes inserted? If it's not then I'll put all except the broken one in this evening so that I can practice measuring the voltage of the 3 good tubes.

Sorry for the torrent of pretty basic questions and thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to respond.

David
divad68

Showing 2 responses by newbee

David,

Sonics - The KT88's will have a bit of mid bass bloom (sounds good!) a bit forward in the mid-range, and fairly extended highs. In comparison the 6550 is more linear from the bass through the mid-range and a bit soft in the highs. I use both of these tubes in amps.

Amps or speakers which are inherrently warm can sound a bit overblown with KT88's and the 6550's would help produce a more neutral tone. Conversely a KT88 would warm up a 'cooler' amp or set of speakers. Kind of a matching to taste issue. I'd recommend that you start with the tube type selected by the manufacturer, i.e. KT88's. SED's are a good rugged tube and worth buying. After you have spent a long time with this tube you can proceed with experimenting with other power tubes and small tubes to tune your system to taste. Those little tubes can make a huge difference, don't overlook them. Its really a combo of power tubes and small tubes that will get you were you may really want to be.

V1 & V2 go together as do V3 & V4. Matched tubes is good but since you have individual bias pots if you have to replace a single tube (again) you can just get a new one of the same brand with a similar bias point.

The bias range should be close with each tube type especially if its established for KT88's. IME 6550's are a bit more rugged and can take a higher bias point. For example I will bias my 6550s between 45 and 50 ma in my amps whereas with KT88 its more around 40 ma.

The biasing procedure. After installing the tubes, and before you turn on the amp, turn the bias pots counter clockwise to a zero setting. Turn on your amp with no sources operating and let the amp warm up for a few minutes. The set the bias as recommended, say 55 ma and let the amp run for a few hours, then go back and adjust bias again (it will probably have fallen off a few ma). I usually check it again in a few days and then I check it every couple of months thereafter.

Re - your 'cheap' multimeter. Probably good enuf, so long as it provides for reading DC in ma. Some use digital. I like analog. Mine cost about $15 to $20 at my local electronics store.

I don't know if operating you amp without all of the tubes in place would actually damage the amp. But, I would err on the cautious side and not recommend it. Besides biasing the new tubes really isn't, as you will discover, a big deal.

Have fun with your new toy. Oh, by the way, most tube amps like to be connected with speakers when you turn them on.
David, Re your question about the Chinese explaination. I think that they are 'technically'correct' in thier verbiage and we understand the process backwards, i.e. you reduce bias by increasing voltage not increasing voltage increases bias - we just assume so because we are watching a meter which is measuring voltage (not the actual bias). I'm not a techie - this is just my understanding. But, FWIW, if you think you should start with your bias pot anywere but the maximum counter-clockwise position don't do it without specific clarification. I've never seen a bias pot work 'backward' and I've seen quite a few. :-)