Any info outside of there web site. I'm looking to replace my Acoustic Research sub and the new R series sounds like it will do music and movies well.My needs are mainly music.
Actaully, that's a lie. It was well hidden in a dark corner of a listening room when it suddenly called out to me.
"I have no box....C'mon, take me with you....Say, did you know I'm only $849 + tax...."
Summoning the only superpower available to me -- the power of plastic -- I rescued the little guy and brought him home with me.
So now I've got the R-305 and the R-205. They share the only "available" corner in my LR -- they're so close they even share the same input signals.
That said, it's surprising how different they sound. Makes me wonder if I'd be happier with the big R -- which happens to priced the same as the new Brittania.
If you can audition a REL -- go for it. But if it begins talking to you -- seek professional help.
I am in the market for new Sub for my HT. I'll check MJ out. I have been leaning in the DD-18 or 15 direction but the Rel had also piqued my interest. I havent heard any of these so I have my work cut out!
I think we'd all like the opportunity to feel 13HZ.
What's the name of the movie you're recommending for reference & testing?
Seriously, I don't know how low they go...but placement (with all subs) is they key to squeezing out the lowest response.
I'm surprised there isn't an algorithm for maximum sub output.
Here's one I've been working on:
SweetSpot = 23.667 x distance from the age of the oldest listener in the room (- .53 for extensive crown molding) to the nearest toilet + total time of movie trailers and unwatched bonus materials on DVD.
NOTE: Please allow +/- 20ft for your individual requirements and circumstances.
I've heard it in my system. Clean and clear, there is LFE coming from the subs below 20 HZ. I don't know if I feel, because of course you can't hear down to 13 HZ, the LFE down to 13 Hz. In fact there might not be any LFE down to 13 Hz in any of the music I listen to. But there is in the movies and let me tell you, I've never before felt the impact that these subs present from any other sub I've own and I've owned several pairs including Rel, Velodyne and B&W. Hey, enough of me babbling. Go to the MJ Acoustic wed site and read it for yourself. Or better yet, seek out a dealer to hear and feel it for yourself. I have no affiliation with MJ at all. I'm just a happy customer, trying to spread the word on these fantastic subs.......John
I find the info on the Sumiko website for these subs a bit suspect. How low do these subs go? I just purchased two MJ Acoustic Reference 150 Mk IIs and they are incredible. I replaced the Rel Strata III subs I've had in my system for over 3 years. When I went shopping for new subs, I was looking for something that was going to go under 20 Hz. I've recently upgraded to full range speakers that go to 20 Hz. All of the MJ subs go to at least 13 Hz. I have the sub's crossover set at 20 Hz for music, via the high level input, and I get low frequency info from my system, with these subs, that I"ve never gotten before with the Rel Strata's. Until I can see what the low end cut off is for the Rel R series, I would not trust them to offer THAT kind of LFE performance. I highly recommend you take a listen to the MJ subs, they really perform.......John
It does double duty without breaking a sweat or having to adjust anything
1. Greatly enhances large mains during 2-channel listening (for music)
2. Does the same WHILE ALSO pumping out LFE signal (for Movies/DVD-Audio/Etc)
Ease of placement (You won't be on your hands and knees playing Sub Hunt)
Class D powered (don't know much about it -- but it's why the R-series is so small and so efficient)
The 205 and 305 are basically identical - the extra power in the 305 makes it a far superior choice.
The larger (driver, amp & price tag) R-405 blows them both away.
I've auditioned a new Q201 and an old Storm (or Strata?) and neither could do what the R-305 does in my listening room -- with my equipment. (Thiel CS1.6 - Rotel RB-1080)
As far as other high-end subs go....I got nothin'.
If you can get to a stand alone Magnolia Home Theater store (California and Atlanta GA) -- you can buy one and return it for a full refund.
Coach The R305 has a 10" Heavy Duty Long Throw Cast Frame driver which I believe is different than the 10" in the R205. The cabinet size and like you mentioned 300w vs 200w amp. I am using these with Reference 3A DeCapo monitors and they work very well as they do with my more full range Virgos. Depending on room size either would be a good choice.
Gjrad, Most of the reviews I've read always seem to speak of Full or near full range speakers with these subs. I'm using B&W S805's and I'm leaning towards the R-205. Outside of more power,whats the difference between the R-305 and the R-205.
I purchased a REL R-305 about two months ago to add more bottom end to my Reference 3As and AP Virgos. Very well built and the integration is seemless and easy to do. You don't even know the sub is on and working until you turn it off, the difference is quite dramatic. Its a keeper....
Got the REL R-205 last weekend and so far I am very impressed. I've never heard such good bass or had such an easy time integrating it with the main speakers. Highly recommended.
For muisc get a sub that is fats and pitch accurate.REL.Martin Logan Decent and my budget fave the Vandersteen 2Wq all have multiple drivers to equak the sqaure inch output of 12 to 18 inch single sub with big plodding drivers.Only subes zi know of fast enough and with proper pitch accuracy to blend with nopriously difficult (because of their purity of resolution and speed).Big subs are fine for HT where slam and "Boom In The Room " are most important citeria.Muic subs can be fast and big but I find they start listinbg at aroung $3K like Revel,Great new Velodyne DD series,Arial,Thiel etc.But budget king Vandersteen costs like 41300 jnew $750-800 new and have a very interesting x-over which means you should not use dedicated RCA/XLR cable but use speaker wiores and hook sub at seake level taps and combines with your sattelites at amp (as opposed to feeing through sub and out) because that allows sub to respond to full frequency spectrum not just what is low paased at say 150-hrz.Grteat product with limitations of course.ASt that price you roviding s foundation not going into pipe organ territory or low of heariong.But low note of electric bass is 40Hrz.Better that than some sloppy plodding sub with specs that ar "22 hrx +/- 6Db".Two others low profile VTB (check their site) are fast and muiscal and Infinity top of line subs (part of the MTS Prelude speaker are great iuf you think you might get two (yeah I know your ear can't localize where bass is coming from below 150 hrz so why two subs?Just listyen to a system with two and you'll heasr it.Infintiy subs are thin another easy to live with size wise sub) and has "Rabos System"with Mike and CD-Rom that come with it so you can take out "bass hump" at upperbass region/lower midbass (around 3J\Hrz) taht alomost every roome has.Botht the VTB (also called TBI) Maggelan and Inifinity speakers are great for stereop pair dwon line but so is haveing two of anything.Me I probablywill get two of the 2Wq's if I keep my current speakers $7500 Odeon Tosca's good bass but you can always use a sub unless you are at 20 or 25 hrz and mine are 35 close to Vandersteen low but it will still pressurize room and make a difference.Lokk for SPEED and PITCH accuracy getiung as low as your budget will afford for best MUISICAL results and multi driver designs dliver that in the main thus the REL,Vandy and ML suggestions. Chazzbo`
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