Olimanmojo: Thanks for any help you and the guru's can provide.
Stringeen : You are spot-on about mortite. It is for that reason and others I applied Roma professional modeling clay #2 that never drys out the way mortite does. I happen to have had two , 2 lb. bricks about 10-15 years old that were as "fresh" when opened as when I bought them. Thanks for your concern. |
I know nothing about this table, but do know about mortite. When fresh it's one product, but quickly dries out and is entirely different in a few months. It is not a stable product. |
charlie
i will look at the barb tonite and see of i can find a source. Some of my instrumentation guru's at work might have a source.Surprised at mcmaster-carr response. Always had good success with them |
Crem1, are you sure your broken hose barb is metric? A 1/8" pipe thread is very very close to 10mm X 1.0, and all the fittings on my Athena are 1/8 pipe. This is taper thread, so it gets tight after a couple of turns, but keep going, gently.
cxprestige--longtime athena owner and inveterate tinkerer... |
Back to the Flip Side: I changed my opinion and repainted the back of the table. My reasoning was not soley for appearances . On reflection, I recalled factory/military applications when paint is applied as a deadner to "clamp-down" on vibes. Very 1920'ish. Following a good cleaning , lite sanding and lots of taping I applied a quick-dry black gloss with a hard finish. Nice uniform look and with some vibe/pulse deadening. I took a pic of the completed work I will post as soon as I learn the process. Homework never ends. |
Oilmanmojo: Perhaps you can help me. I broke the air barb that screws into the the air manifold and have yet to locate a part source. I believe we shaire the same manifold. Have you by chance ever unscrewed the barb off for sizing or do you know of a source for one ? Many Thanks |
Oilmanmojo: Several shots of the continuing modification of the turntable base were made today. When I understand the process of downloading , those pic's and more will be posted.
The turntable base was detailed , scraping excess Roma & covering all the clay on the back-side with Scotch Brand Blue Painters Tape. Worked like a charm. I believe I shall leave it "as is" with no further painting . On the top-side,the lower bearing housing was seated with a interface between it and the Roma. I carefully & lightly tightened bushings w/washers to the bearing plate taines. According to what I have read this is a bit trickey to advoid the plate from going out of round . So far so good. And again, nothing I did can not be revised or reversed. |
would love to see those pics. its going to be a different machine! |
RCA/Terminal Cover : The phono/tone-arm harness stretches from the phono clips to the RCA's that plug into the Pre-Amp(27").
Self-adhesive felt pads were holed & afixed over soft rubber grommets that were inserted into the openings that the RCA's occupied in the plastic cover. The phono-wires travel thru that opening encased in a carbon fiber jacket. I feel the felt pads act to "absorb" micro vibrations that may run from the P/A back to the tone-arm,: E Lumley's observations on electrical eddies traveling from the pump into the 'Noll may also apply here. Self-adhesive S/S shielding was lined into the back-space to block RFI.
I must take some pic's before re-assembly to doctument all I have been describing. |
Award of Merit : McMaster-Carr returned my broken part with a one line hand written notice "returned" bla, bla. Thanks for ALL your help. You know how to keep da US Of A on Top! Next UP,
"Gong On Down the Line" ..... The Return of Ari :
As I attempt to source an air barb, Robb of Fine Finishes telephoned . He said he's removing all(ie, my crappy)spray paint(far too soft a finish in his opinion) and is duplicating the color palette in lacquer. Robb will give the entire project a profession touch. Robb is to apply lacquer via a spray booth, to be followed by coats of clear coat that is to be hand-buffed between coats . The platter is to be finished in a gloss black, all other top parts in mauve(ish) color paint . The Counterweight Arm, Bearing Spindel and Tone-Arm are to stay anodized black ; the VTA adjust & "L" bracket to the counterweight in mauve(ish) , the VTA adjust crew in stainless: A custom made part that allows more refinement to adjusting the VTA. All unused openings on the table top & sides are to be filled with curved-top red-oak plugs : The off-sided triangle cut-out , now filled filled with Roma , once housed the Hurst motor. That opening is to be coverered with red-oak trim to be attached using small brass screws set into the Roma underneath. Counterweights are to be solid brass (when sourced).
The TT Motor is to sit on a red-oak platform that affixes off-angle to Ari's right front corner. The platform looks like an inverted "Z" is attached via extending the red-oak plank of the "Z" that covers the existing right front opening the adjusting spike once used. Single sided 3M absorber tape affixed to the oak acts as a interface between the "Z" and the table side to dampened any platform vibes. The whole sub-unit is affixed via a brass bolt & washer, thru a hole drilled into the "Z" that will axcess to re-use the adjuster hole to affix the sub-unit to the Ari's plinth.
All orgininal screws & supports are to be reused. A toothpick is to apply Permatex , 83H , # 80057, Super "300", gasket sealant as a dampner to threaded parts. Far more effective that super-glue and far less hassel when time to be removed. Just a dab will do ya.
Dare I mention this ? I might consider a lacquer clear mixed with ? color sprayed to be over the white plastic plinth(maybe).
I will begin to dampen some interfaces where ,in my opinion, un- wanted vibration(s)could/do occurr. Currently, I am testing materals. Should any reader have auditioned/owned a Beard Amp than you recall that most unique of audio voicing. Partly, that signature audio palette is the result of paper dampters placed on/under certian boards to dampen micro-vibrations. That practice is not lost on me and I will attempt to duplicate that idea via the table's tone/adjust as to some parts/places I choose for that select application.
So far, besides paint, everything I have done can be reversed ,as in removed, without damage to the table.
More areas to be addressed. The RCA jack opening is no longer in use now that I now run 32 Ga. Cardas TT wire from the phono pins to the Pre-Amp (27"). This opening is to be covered/shielded via stainless steel tape ,as will be the back of the RCA/Terminal plate to deter RFI. The roof of the RCA opening has already been dampened with Roma. While I await Pidepiper's assistance , several mods for the stock 7" tone-arm. Lots mo' later. |
Who's On Our Side ?
A couple of posts ago I mentioned I broke the air barb to the tone-arm manifold and that I was going to contact McMaster-Carr for a replacement. That's what I did only to receive the wrong part. I contacted MC and was assured they could assist . The parts were returned for credit and upon MC's instructions I enclosd the broken part for replacement. Nearly 2 weeks goes by no phone calls , no emails , no nutt'in. So I recalled them , spoke to a customer rep who later recalled me. Despite all the assurances of assistence none was forthcomning. Instead, I get a very calm professional voice telling me McMaster-Carr "eye-balled" the part , the tech could not recall anything like it in stock, dumping the part back to me no explanation via snail mail. Despite all the bull crap about lending a helping hand to the comsumer all I got was a polite foot up my a--. The McMaster-Carr rep suggested that I go back to square one look into their online parts and locate it myself ! And with a sweet kiss-off McMaster-Carr just brushed me aside. Something to remember for future reference. McMaster-Carr assured me of help and then kicked me in the arse. For sure in the world of big business I'm a nobody but I represent a lot of regular folks that from time to time need a tad of help. Remember my experience the next time you hear of a buy-out of another US company. Most likely arrogance started the demise, forgetting the "little guy" is the backbone of business. Enought for now. My search for that part continues... |
Know When To ...
Ok, I've had it. 97% isn't good enought for me on the painting. I contacted Robb @ Fine Finishes , 3300 Emmorton Rd, Abingdon, MD, 21009 ,P/N 443-484-2039 and he has accepted the job. All TT painting is in his hands. Robb is a one-of-a-kind-person , a finisher to perfection. I believe he is a real "go-to guy" for plinths and such. More on that and such more later. |
Table Udate: The tables' sub-unit(s) painting has not gone without challenges. Really, I don't think Bob's ever cared about scratch an dent control. Sand any surface, another "Bob" imperfection rises to make your stomache turn. Far too many hours attempting to refirb thru a haze of Bob, Bob and more Bob. The platter was/is the #1 challenge : I'm overtaking the 3 Bob's but what a time muncher. Had I known what I know now I'm not sure I would have invested so much time an effort. Ah, hell its worth the effort. The most interesting find ? Tuneable bearings , a piece of cake to adjust. Another, the value of Roma Plastena (clay)in this project can not be under estimated. Lastly, since this plinth isn't the sealed type, its very adjustable in terms of playabilty/dampting. While Ari will never be a LLoyd, I am inspired by his work. My feeling is that this Ari is going to be a very interesting listening experience. Now back to work. |
And on the 7th Day ...
More special appearances at the Heart Institute. As I sat contently puttering with a couple of parts associated with the Oil Trough , all hell broke loose -- Heart Attack Day -- 8 men and 3 women were wheeled by breathless techs all for imaging some having more than one test. The patients were all so upset; the men had tears in their eyes (family loss fear) , the women seemed more resigned to death. I couldn't stand it. Here I am for a simple Holter Test , here they are fighting for their lives . As a Nurse Janet called me to be hooked up , inner emotions (don't ask why) called out for me to quell the emotional agony / pain I was witnessing. As I stood to walk to the Prep Room , I said in a calm clear voice " I know what's going on in your mind ... listen to me ... What is happening to you has happened to me twice". They transfixed on me as I looked each patient in the eye saying "Nobody is going to die , not today , the staff is going to keep you alive ... I mean it ... No deaths, not today ". Nurse Janet was stunned as was everybody in ear shot. The patients all gave me a smile & some a feble "thumbs-up". Nurse Janet who is in her 70's +++ closed the Prep Door and said that moment was inspiring thanking me for the effort. In 20 minutes the Holter was set-up and away I went.
So what's this have to do with the 'Noll ? I lost the trough part ... No good deed goes goes rewarded ... I'll make the lost part out of Oak or better ...
|
Never touch a dremel ... More work ... Steel wool makes a lot disappear ... Mo better.
Now to Put Humpty Dumpty Back Together Again.
Before any sub unit can be reassembled they all need some mild sanding & paint work. Nothing anybody can't complete. Just a time in = rewards later job. What is apparent (no offense B.D.) much of the 'Noll finishing work was sloppy, period. Hundreds of minor imperfections, sometimes it seems per sq. inch. Well, 97% is history and the other 3% ? Thats what paint is for ( a little cheat in me). The paint scheme is going to be calmer , light colors for the manifold housing , softer blacks for the platter , arm-lift unit and trough. Some parts of the tone-arm (counter-weight "L") are to be repainted a soft black. The VTA adjuster will be either the same color as the manifold or soft black. I may reconsider the platter and hand paint in a epoxy brite black . Today, the Rx'es drew 18 large vials of Mr. Me's red-stuff. Gosh, that a great way to start the day... At least I have today :) :) |
Everywhere I turn its, Oil, Oil and Troughs :
Before the Tone-Arm , a little redo of the oil trought. Mine must have been made early on , very little to adjust unless its off the table. I have a few dremel inspired ideas. Tomorrow its back to the Heart Institute . C Ya , the sooner the better ... |
Thanks for the e/m an order went out to Masters-McCarr tonight. |
Readers: I broke a M10-1.0 fine thread, 1/8" plastic air barb ; no one near me has a replacement. Any suggestions on where to find one? Thanks. |
Oilmanmojo: Sorry I don't ,a real kick in the keester . I just bought a digital camera that I have yet to operate. Before the final set-up a bud is to take a few disassembled Pic's to fill in the blanks. This is a huge amount of work. I think I have 40 hrs.+ more. Most is grunt work , real time consuming. I only hope the effort is worth it. The interesting matter for me is that I believe I correctly understand how these tables actually operate. Next up, the tone-arm. |
Charlie: Do you have any pics of your work, I would love to see the work in progress. Tremendous effort, can't wait to see how it turns out. |
Work, Work and Work Some More :
The Top-side "Q" has been lightly covered with Roma, the beer belly on the lead floor where the bottom half of the bearing sits was slightly pounded so the center of the bearing plate sits on a flatish lead center and the wide, flat portion of the bearing "floats". The bearing got a new center pin , the off-set air inlet got a new air tube repositioned , damped to the metal tube that ultimately attaches the air control system to the turntable base. The tines and bushings are in place . More later...Note: The Roma can be easily cleaned with I/O alcohol. |
Now for the Flip Side:
Turning over the 'Noll table top-side uprevealed a different bag of worms -- challeges. Imagine a large Q cut-out 1" deep, thats what the top looks like naked an'all. The tail of the Q is the former cut-out for the top-side of the motor mount a slightly disoriented lead paramid with the top lopped off. The Hurst was seated in that flip, then the unit was screwed into the lead base . The off-set "O" is home to the bearings with a 1/2" moat surrounding the plates. I re-screwed the lead motor mount plate back into the flip coating it and the flip with a goodly amount of Roma, covering the "moat" with a thin coating of Roma. Just grunt work anybody can do. I was grunting when I noticed the lead base had buckeled over the years, a slightly convex affair. No problem a few taps of a rubber malot gently flatened the lead base. More on that later. Then a fopa on my part ; I dropped the tone-arm manifold onto a carpet. The manifold was intact but the plastic air inlet snapped off. No crisis but a sign I was tired ... Sleepy Time. |
Crem,
FYI, no MDF in the sig plinth; solid corian and lead. great work! |
Readers :A Couple of quick impressions. Word/Mind sketchbooks in no particular order;
The Electrical Harness : Well made hardware with a black cap , hurst motor , clean solder joints and garden variety line cord. Removed intact. To be cleaned, photographed and stored with all other parts removed from the Maplenoll.
Air Manifold Case : A Two'ish pound of finely machined Alum-type stock encasing the famed Dr. Lew Eckhart tone-arm air manifold made of the finest SS money can buy . The case only needs cosmetic work and painting. Note: I shot 100% I/O alcohol thru the tone-arm bearing not one drop of oil. The fact the tone-arm bearing is clean affirms the re-design of the air control system and the home-made air scrubbers. Same is true of the Table's Air Bearings.
The S/S circular , short-pipe supports for the tone-arm manifold were turned by a machinest to a hand-burnished satin finish. Once lightly steel wooled , beautiful look much better than wood and stronger. Supports filled with Roma Plastlinia #2 some of the finest professional modeling clay made w/ a history to the 12th Century. Perfect filler/dampener , will never harden , crust or deteriorate. More on Roma later. To be finished off with thin rubber washers before re-install. Must have cost real money to manufacture.
The Lead Platter: A grunt work project. Sanded, polished & primed, awaiting final paint application. 50lb-ish, too much to lug around. Not: Helpers required to move safetly.
Air Bearing tube, arm lift and tone-arm parts. All cleaned foam filled or adjusted and complete.
The Maplenoll Air Bearing : A thing of beauty. Casted in a foundary , hand machined and balanced. They are 8" in diameter , Lloyd Walker made his 11" in size. Now, I understand why.
The bearings are industral art . Since they started life in a foundary they actually ring like a bell of sorts. That my friend that is the secret to the music. I believe both top and bottom bearings are "tuned ". The ring has to much sustain for just an accident. I played guitar before the car accident, I know pitch . Using a tuning fork or a automated tuner it becomes apparent why these bearings ring with purpose. The secret to the table is to damp the bearings w/o destroying their "life". Now that I know what the "key" is harmonically" , tuning down is not that difficult. Kinda like tuning a guitar to the key of C or D Major. Note: The bearing base has three off-set threaded rods that act as taines ie. vibration drains , draining off unwanted pulsations thru the base and into a rubber bushing. The bushing is not any run of the mill bushing but a Ford shock absorber cap specifically designed to kill vibration.
Must have cost Mr.Ford millions to design over the past century .Smart move Bob D. applying automotive tectnology. Ford spent millions and I bought my bushing replacements for a little over $6.00. Thanks Bob, thanks Mr. Ford but most of all thanks to Paul @ PEP Boys who has a PHD in communications/ bushing knowledge. Go Army, go Paul ... Your the man.
The Back-Side of the Table:
A maze of cut-outs and holes. All are filled with Roma , threaded for use including the electrical box & motor mounting holes(both filled w/Roma). Note: Roma recommends shellacing any surface to which the clay is to be applied. Since Bob D. painted the back, black no need for shellac. Note: Helpers required to move safetly.
Everything I have done can be reversed just as quickly as pluged. All exposed electrical holes finished wooden plugs of various sizes for visual appeal. Much more to come. |
Piedpiper: I do. The corian encases a core of MDF and 2 lead center sheets . It certianly looks pur-dee and must sound better than the Reference stock.
For what its worth Bob D. said the Kaplan Table(the one I started with) was equal to all other Maplenolls.
Personally, I doubt the stock 'Noll was equal but that's what the man once said in a phone conversation. With all the improvements made to the base , I reserve judgement on best, better and da-bestest for later. Enjoy the moment. |
As you know,the Signature Ariadne has a much better plinth of corian and lead. |
"Any one can even do the break-down ... Add 1 Hon front or back , now that's old town Baltimore . |
The Maplenoll is in baggies and a box. Anyone even can do the break-down. "For those who wait all will be revealed" jumps into mind. To Bob D. "I get it" , to Lloyd W. thanks for your interviews, letters and vantage point.
The grunt work ; sanding, polishing ,painting and quieting , nothing that can't be accomplished by anybody who can turn a screw.. The secret ? Just a little Dab will do.
Once dismanteled its easy to see the the spots that need attention ; as the days go bye I see the ease of this project.
FYI: From the back-side you clearly see that the inner-body of the table is constructed of MDF and 2 lead centerplates, and about a dozen sheet metal-type screws. Friends thats it besides the holes and cut-outs. Oh, the rubber parts: They are cracked , brittle, broken and dry. The years have taken a toll on the rubber ,as well as, the washers , screws, nuts and bolts. No Problem, everything is available @ The Home Depot.
Now back to work ... Ah just Kidding Its the 4th of July. How about a burger and a Bud ? All the best to America. |
|
Piedpiper : How about a Bud instead , actually I prefer red wines. According to Johns Hopkins the mushroom is the ticket.
I'll know soom if the foam sealant is the ticket is or out... The good news it can be easily removed not like past products. Enjoy your neck of the woods. |
Re: arm tube resonance control, Bob pointed out to me years ago that, yes, you could make the arm less resonant by simply slipping an O ring onto it, but that it killed dynamics. Choose your poison. |
Scott Leventhal's Pump Suggestions in no particular order :
www.silentaircompressor.com see Super Silent Pump DR-500; sale 4620 + S/H, reg. $ 900.
Thomas Industries Model 900-13-59E @ Granger Industral Supply
Wisa Rotary Pump & other aq. pumps starting @ $400 & up.
A note from Audio Asylum @ 1/3 HP Technmseh Refrige Pump
Scott also included some other links that were broken.
For my money the DR-500 is the one I intend to use, should the SQ go belly up. |
All Travels Begin With A First Step :
Yesterday , the Maplenoll began its journey back to a box of parts. This is not the first time that I disassembled the Maplenoll. The change here is to completely break apart the 'Noll ... part by part, sub-assembly to its components that are to be examined , cleaned , renewed or replaced. This is a top down revision that I believe will substancially upgrade this table into a direction with the finest air bearing tables .
My first objectives were the Tone-Arm Lift , the Air Bearing Tube & Platter in that order.
The Tone-Arm Lift has never seemed to move smoothly , now I understand the reason; the block body was cut too wide obscuring the need for a clip to secure the stainless steel rod offset into the lifter. Without the clip , the rod had too much play shifting ever so little as rotated stressing the cantilever & stylas as they entered into the LP grove. I bought the Noll from Fred Kaplan , TAS reviewer. I don't think he ever understood why the cartridge suspensions were trashing out on a couple of his Hi-priced carts. Oh, Fred, thanks for the AQ 7000 after a redo it works great.
Following a lot of sanding , miking and plain grunt work, the lift moves perfectly w/ no slop. Another discovery, sanding the block to be a dense materal that's rock hard ,grey in color and quite dead to a knuckel rap . It appears to be a plastic resin of some sort. Since Bob D. was also a weapons designer who knows -- Maybe surplus stock from other project? Well, only Bob or LLoyd know and they arn't a part of this thread (yet). Next it was off to Home Depot for Rust-Oleum "Professional" Primer. Its as good as they note on the can, highly recommended.
The Air Bearing Tube :
After all the head work I did on this one the answer was so simple; Just pop the plug on one side & fill the inner space with Dap Tex-Pluse , a window & door foam sealant. Hi-Tect foam that expands slowly allowing for the tubes re-capping. The end result ? As lightweight as before & no ringing . Within hours that tube was as dead to a rap as I have experienced. Now for the Big Momma ...
The lead Platter : This was to be a 600 grit work-over , as I had done before but my inner sprit got caught up in the moment: Starting back side to front , grunt work began safety first its Lead , respirator , gloves & glasses on so the sanding began -- for hours . I found that paint covered hundreds of casting inperfections that eventually disapeared as I sanded /to polished the back to a satin finish. The old addage " painters hide the mistakes of carpenters " applied here. I removed almost all gouges, imperfections and casting lines, not to mention a myrad of lathe marks. A good dusting and then several coats of primer that leveled into imperfections so small you needed a mag glasses to see them. The gang at Rust-Oleum knows what they are doing. Enought daylight for clean-up. On to another day. |
Crem1, this is great news on the pump! Any details you can post on it will be VERY much appreciated.
Thank you!!
-Jim |
Oilmanmojo: Thanks for the input. I feel this is an exciting time for us 'Nollers. What I'm attempting is both short/long term , filling in knowledge blanks and making one last effort using the 'Noll arm design. I do think I'm on to clamping down the vibrations by replacing some metal & plastic with wood 'an GE goo. A little bit of 'Ol Bob, LLoyd , Michael Green , Van Evers and the AG troop with a dash of crem1. The table itself is the object of attention. The Music Hall Motor w/ all the goods should make a huge improvement. Keep up the good fight with your arm design. I never forget how easy it is to unbolt one for another. But everytime I listen to a Frank Schroder T/A I wonder why I don't convert(answer-$$$$). I will keep you informed . |
charlie
I have my armwand filled with a silicon material to minimize the resonance. I have a teflon tube much to what you highlighted in the center of the armwand to snake the phono wires through. I am not sure it made that much difference though as my first iteration was just the carbonfiber tube. Both sounded better than the stock aluminum arm. I still think one of the keys in the success of my arm is the ridgid construction and clamping system as compare to the vta adjustment with the stock arm. i was never really satisfied with the stock arm because it could be easily flexed. I also feel the direct connection from the cartridge clip all the way to the phono stage adds some value though it is difficult to set up with those fine wires instead of a traditional leads. Please keep us informed as to your progress. I am still working on my project that we discussed earlier, though a new work assignment has me backed up right now. |
Piedpiper: Thanks for the explanation. I just sent you an email before checking the posts. Have fun. |
Crem,
sorry to be out o touch. I'm on the road and not near internet.
The suggestion was to fill the existing air bearing tube with snug fitting balsa. Using wood for the bearing is not an option due to tolerance issues. |
FYI : Scott Leventhal contacted me with a listing of replacements for the quite pumps. I shall post soon. Scott is one of those unsung 'Nollers always willing to assist. Thanks Scott.
PS. He wrote the more informed manual for the Maplenoll Line. He knows the platform. |
FYI: The air bearing and tone arm have been disassembled. A carbon fiber (now) & wood (later) arm tube w/slight modifications to the arm lift on back of the manifold , bass & lead counter weights for the arm , the bearing tube opened & filled w/ GE dampner, maple plugs countersunk w/ brass threaded incerts for the tube,VTA unit modded and walnut supports for the manifold . AQ phono plugs w/cardas phono wire for the carbon fiber , 46 ga. 9x9 solid copper for the wood arm. The manifold is to be cleaned , inner sleeve brushed & manifold lightly dampened. More later. |
Oilmanmojo: As I awoke the medical motto "First Do No Harm", came to mind along with the following;
An alternate route is to apply feather-weight damping compounds developed by GE as mentioned in earlier postings , uncaping the bearing tube, filling the inner space and then recaping.
Or, a complete revision using carbon fiber tubes for the bearing and tone arm (Tks for the idea & materal). As for the tone arm ,the method for internal damping slightly differs: Prior to filling the arm tube a teflon tubeing is centered for the passage of the phono wires(w/exits front & back ) ,light-weight dampner leveled into 70-80% of the arm tube space, back to front. The challenge is of course end cap hardware and the VTA screw shaft, should the design be manitained.
The effective mass of the arm will change ,the "geometry" should be the same. Head-shell weights in different grams will likely be required (ss,lead & brass are options).
Joe Grado mailed his tri-point headshell weights to me years ago. Modified fan weights can be used inconjuction with the Grado Tri-Points, if extra weight is a must. For that, I'll go back to the books for a final answer.
WoodCrafter EJ suggested because the high pressured bearing manifold expells air mixed w/ oil & water vapors , wood is not a first choice for the bearing tube ; all wood swells in time. Filling the factory tube or a carbon redo are options . For the arm tube anything goes, metal, wood or carbon ... Of course, the "math" is important, enought brain goo for now. All the best. |
Oilmanmojo: You have highlighted a key question that must be answered in more detail. The alternate is to fill the sleeve with balsa. The tone-arm is different from the perspective that once sealed it should not swell. I have some ideas gleamed from conversations with Bruce Tigpan for completeing the tone-arm. At this point I am not convinced that either my initial or later ideas are better relative to each other. Thinking and a tad of time will help. The key here is what EJ termed "reverse engineering" ... I get it. |
charlie
sounds interesting. If you use wood, be sure to seal it well. wood will absorb water(from humidity in the room or inthe compressed air) and possibly swell. THe key to the airbearing is the perfect fit between the airtube and arm that justs allows enough airflow to float the arm. if the dowel swells, you may have some issues with fit. |
'Nollers : Following watching Jolie in "Wanted", I stopped at the local WoodCraft Store chatting with the store manager "EJ". We discussed the possibility to convert several metal parts on the Ari' into wood. I infrequently visit this place just scanning over stock for ideas. EJ mentioned that a former employee is a world-class woodworker and analog-head. The guy apparently is into turntables and maybe interested in making a few replacement parts.EJ said he would attempt to hook us up. I looked over a selection of exotic hard woods & dowels ; ideas kept popping into the mind-broth. Nothing firm but also scads of solid brass parts to use as end caps , screws, bolts as well as wood inserts and replacement parts for the air bearing tube and tone-arm. Only time will tell how all of this will "turn" out. Its a good day when I can fuse Jolie and audio-play together. |
Piedpiper: To be sure I understand: The modification suggested is to replace both the arm tube and tone-arm with balsa , rather than to uncap the arm tube to insert a snugg fitting balsa dowel inside the tube ,itself, then regluing the end cap. Should I replace the arm tube, a Woodcrafter store is close and I recall a dowel department-all types. Getting a dowel turned is the tricky issue. I presume the dowel shound be fine sanded, sealed, painted , lightly sanded (800 grt)and perhaps resealed. P/P I understand the weight & pressure issue. Even with a second pump as Oilman I doubt I could get more than 4-5 PSI, presently I 'm @46 PSI. Readers please feel free to express your comments/ideas. |
The reason for using Balsa is to keep the overall weight low. Bear this in mind when choosing an alternate material. Perhaps using very high pressure (more than 60PSI) precludes this concern. |
Oilmanmojo : Thanks for the info. charlie |
The plastic plug is not cemented in very well. When i was modifying my arm, i had to tap a new screw thread and found it came out during drilling. There were two plugs in mine. I have also considered replacing the armtube with a solid piece of graphite rod to avoid the resonance factor. Just have not gotten around to completing this yet. |
Piedpiper : Thanks. In regards to the motor issue , I aquired a complete motor , base and wall-wart. I will replace the wall-wart with a much better power supply.The motor unit is to be pluged into a line-controller so speed issues will not be a problem.
I have stocked Lo & Hi Teck materals ; most are available at lo-cost. Work is to begin as soon a few buds assist to dismantel the Ari.
The center pin is to be examined for possible replacement. The origional pin was replaced years ago. It is my opinion the center pin is a weak link. I did attempt to have a ceramic-compound pin made but no one wanted to do the job . My tool&die maker friend has retired to somewhere in Germany (ceya). The balsa idea seens to be a good one. But, how do you open the arm tube with the plastic plug already cemented in ? |
Another tweak that Bob Dilger told me about way back when is to turn a piece of balsa wood so to fit snugly inside the air bearing tube to dampen resonances there. One could do the same for the arm tube itself. I never did either. Another is to put all connections, splitters, valves, plenums, filters, etc, upstream of the bulk of the air tubing so that air turbulence resonances are smoothed out by the time they reach the arm. The platter is not so sensitive to this. I'm sure we can do much better than the stock Hurst motor, not to mention adding electronics to minimize resonances. |
