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My JL Audio sub is dead. What exactly happened?

So at my wife's request, I hooked up a Roku to my main system. Roku is a device for internet streaming movies and tv. The connection between the Roku and my preamp, a Meridian G68, was a 12 foot optical cable.

The first night, I hook up the Roku and it works perfectly.

The next night, I move some cables around, then I hook up the Roku again, exactly the same way as the previous evening. I get picture but no sound. Weird. I pondering what I might have done wrong when out of the speakers... POP. POP! POP!!!

Uh oh.

I dive for the amps, switch them off. The POPs stop immediately. But...

Now there's a TERRIFYING HIGH PITCHED PULSATING NOISE coming from somewhere in the room. I finally realize it's coming from the sub, a JL Audio Fathom 113. I dart across the room, switch it off.

I stand frozen, savoring the final moments of the fantasy that maybe things aren't that bad.

Here are some questions in no particular order...

1. I suspect the amp in the sub is fried. Does that sound right?

2. Where did those POPs come from? Could a damaged optical cable do it? Or maybe the optical cable wasn't fully seated?

3. Do I really have to ship this 150 pound sub to Florida? Or do you think there's any chance of finding someone local to fix it? (I'm in L.A.) The sub is out of warranty, btw.

4. I tried to take the panel off the rear of the amp (I know, lethal voltages inside) with the thought that maybe I would just bring the amp portion of the sub to someone local to fix. I removed about 12 screws from the rear panel and still it doesn't budge. Why can't I open this thing?

If you have any suggestions, I'm all ears. If not, thanks for reading.

Bryon

P.S. The rest of the system appears to be fine.
bryoncunningham

Showing 3 responses by btw22

btw22
80 posts
 
My f112 started rumbling last week, audible from about 8’ away. The sub turns on and the rumbling sometimes goes away after I turn off the unit for a few hours. It was fine for a few days but the rumbling has returned again last night. Was told by JL Audio that the caps need replacing along with amp or power supply(not really sure about this) and that the sub will eventually not turn on in the very near future.

How easy is is it to replace the caps? Does replacing them solve the problem in most cases? Really trying to avoid shipping this thing and my warranty has expired. This is the second time I’ve had a problem, the first being in 2012 but it was still under warranty then.

I would really appreciate any input and advice on the matter.
btw22
80 posts
 
I decided to ship my F112 for repairs last week instead of messing about repairs I know nothing about. Sucks that it’s out of warranty now and shipping is another $150. Hopefully turn around time won’t be long.

babyseaotter99,
It’s too bad the f112 is only upgraded to the latest version of v1. I would’ve gladly paid the $300 or maybe even a bit extra for a v2 upgrade.
btw22
80 posts
 
Polar993,

My f112 exhibited the same issues as yours. Bad caps and power supply, from what I’ve read from multiple forums.

A box from JL audio will cost you $82+shipping. According to them, you must use their supplied box for shipping the sub back. For $300 plus one-way shipping cost, your f113 will be upgraded to most current version of the f113v1.

I sent mine in for repair 2/20 and it’s finally due to come back later this week. Turnaround time was suppose to be 3 weeks but as peter_s noted, they were waiting for parts to come in. Mine also supposedly needed a new woofer so that took an extra 10 days.

TBH, I’m still a little miffed about the whole situation. I previously had my f112 serviced Dec 2012 and 5 yrs later it goes back again. I’ve also come across some saying that bad quality parts were used previously, though I’m not sure how accurate this is. My sub was never pushed close to its limit and now the new warranty is just for one year.

Good luck...

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