Mounting Triplanar Tonearm to SME 20/2 Turntable


I just got a Triplanar U2 SE tonearm and am wondering how to mount it to my 20/2.  
The arm board I have is for an SME tonearm.  Until now I've had a SME IV mk vi mounted.  
After removing the SME arm I used the TP jig to see approximate location of the three holes.
Two of the holes land on the aluminum of the board and the third one is in the open hole in the center.  
It does not seem likely that I will be able to use the SME arm board for the TP arm.  Unless using only two holes to mount it will be enough???
I've also wondered about using 3M high bond tape to fix the arm to the board.  I use this tape in my profession and find it to be of excellent strength and longevity.  This doesn't mean that it's an acceptable application.  Just curious.    
In searching these forums and internet searches I have not been able to find a TP compatible arm board for use on an SME TT.  
Please share any info you might have.  Thanks!
snackeyp

Showing 2 responses by atmasphere

Right???
@millercarbon  I do talk with the voice of authority fairly often, which probably isn't the best way to present things. But I try to temper that with simply not responding if I have any doubts. FWIW dept.: I own two Triplanars and Triplanar is a 10 minute drive from here. We also make a turntable - the model 208. I've serviced turntables of all types as I put myself through engineering school repairing consumer electronics. So I was expressing the mechanical engineering issues that are common to all turntables.


This issue is not unlike the steering in a car. The car has to keep the wheels on the road at all times, and at the same time you have to be able to steer it. To do this, there can't be any play or flex in any of the steering or suspension components or else the handling can get creepy really fast. In a turntable, there can't be any play between the surface of the platter and the locus in which the cartridge is held. If there is, the stylus will be able to move in a way other than the grooves of the LP dictate (introducing chatter and/or coloration). To this end there can't be slop in the bearings nor flex in the plinth. The arm has to be rigidly coupled to the platter bearing - as rigidly and also as 'dead' as possible (the latter being why damping a plinth affects the sound).  Otherwise that would be much like a flexible part in the steering of the car- and would result in the wheels not doing what you want.


I could also have a wooden disk cut to the same size circle as the SME arm board and attach the TP arm to it. I don't want to detract from the aesthetics of the system, but I suppose I can paint it black so it blends OK.  
This will result in reduced performance. Here's why:
One thing that is really important in any turntable is the fact that vibration occurs in the plinth. If the vibration is different in the arm mount as opposed to the platter surface, it will be interpreted by the pickup as a coloration. So the armboard should be of the same material and as tightly coupled to the plinth as possible. Anything else will introduce a coloration.


If I were you I would get a blank arm board from SME and simply drill the three mounting holes for the screws.