there is such a thing as stain conditioner made to help difficult woods such as maple. Essentially it is the same substance as the carrier used in stain, but clear. It keeps the end grain pores from absorbing the stain too readily. Otherwise Photon46 is correct, spray dyes are what is used in production environments.
Michigan Maple Block Query
I am considering a Michigan Maple Block AJA02015 audio platform/cutting board, 18" x 18" x 3 1/2", to replace a shelf in my audio rack for supporting a DAC. The thickness also ideally raises the height of the DAC in the rack. My concern is that it is unsealed maple. Preferably, I would like it black or, minimally, sealed in some way, because the shade of the maple is something I can live with. I am looking for suggestions regarding this. Should I be concerned if left unsealed for this application or not? Thanks in advance.
- ...
- 8 posts total
Before you do anything, you might want to look at the Fine Woodworking website for additional advice. All of the above advice indicates there's a long steep learning curve to finishing maple, especially hard maple. Even if you use what's referred to as a Sanding Sealer to even out the effects of stain, with end grain you still might end up with a checker board effect. If you want black, I've found that it's best to first use a black dye that's made by Behlen Solor Lux, and then spray coat it with a semi or gloss spray. |
This is an old thread, but because it led me to try this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040E0Q1U/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_6 I am responding to it. I installed this block on top of what are probably mapleshade isoblocks (I've had them for years; forgot their source). The result is: tighter bas, more detail, better delineation of instruments--all effects plausibly tied to reduce vibrations. The a/b was brief--too much hassle to repeat it, but I am happy. TT is a clearaudio champion. |
- 8 posts total