And while you're at it, don't forget to listen to the POLE PIECE SIDE.
Some preferences there, too.
My 1.6s in my room? Tweeter 'in' and PP to listener. speaker toe? 10''48''' |
If you think of them as MG1.6 'improved' I don't think you can go too far wrong.
As for amps / placement / setup, they are still Magnepan which means lots of space in back of 'em and sufficient quality power. Details count here.....
They will NOT be a wacky load, though I haven't seen any measurements, but if they follow Magnepan history, and MG1.6 practice, they will NOT have any dips in impedance and will also not have any phase angle issues. Any amp of good quality into 4ohms will work. Now, that being said, more power is indicated into large rooms and higher desired loudness. My MG1.6s with a 4 amp mid/tweet fuse make good use of ICE power 500ASP modules though I have not redlined it....ever. Those days are gone! |
My approach to getting a sub to play well with my 1.6s is to cross over the sub nearly as low as possible.
When I first did the setup, I let it go for a day or so. Then I slowly, over a period of weeks turned the crossover frequency down and adjusted the level slightly.
At first with the crossover set at about 55 to 60hz, the overlap caused bloat. The bass was fat and indistinct. As I turned it down to where it is now, <40, it is much much better. The only time it lights up is when there is content that low. It fills out the lower end of string bass and timpani very well.
My room of 8 sides and very asymmetrical helps loads. The sub is on the longest wall, about 3 feet from the nearest corner. It sits next to the LH panel.
The sub? Don't laugh! It is a HSU set for max extension.
I'd be WAY surprised if this wouldn't work for the 1.7s as well, which in any successful setup now running the 1.6s, should be a drop in replacement. |
Energizer:
One big reason you may like older Maggies is that sometime in the '90s they began shipping with the Mylar toward the listener.
A couple years ago I sold my factory rebuilt MG-1s and bought some 1.6s which long term were irritating...until I simply rotated them in place.
I now listen to the Pole Piece side, just like the old ones.
I'm starting down a path of further adjustments, too. I just make new jumpers out of #6 copper wire to replace the Chrome Plated Steel the panels ship with. Eventually more mods are on tap and even the jumpers and fuse will go away when I go into the crossover mods. |
Energizer.
The reason, at least a POSSIBLE reason for your preference is that sometime back in the '90s, and for no apparent reason, they began shipping with the mylar side facing the listener. This is a 180' flip from prior practice.
I flipped my panels around and now listen the 'old way' and won't go back.
Just a thought...........
and a possible experiment for all you new 1.7 owners. |
It would have been neat, Dsper, If you tried a mod or 2 on your MGs. Magnepan is a DIY dream speaker which responds extremely well. You can do anything from a total reframe in real wood to simple crossover or stand additions.
The real wood frames are not only beautiful (choose your wood....Oak? Maple?) but the real wood helps the sound. MDF is 'dead'.
I had thought about the 1.7s but will opt, instead for a total reframe and eventually a crossover rebuild using optimized 'stock' values. To that end, I'm taking wood shop classes and should be able to begin next year sometime. It's neat since I can use First Class equipment and just pay my nominal shop fees and get premium instruction. 3xwin for me. |
I'm personally not big on Mac / Magnepan. In all the postings I've read, very few will claim that pairing. Not to say it won't work or be very pleasing. The few that have voted 'yes' have been good with the combo.
Krell? I only heard this combo once...on some 3.6s with the 400xi. It actually wasn't bad, but the heat produced was awesome. Because of the limits of my setup, no Krell for me.
If someone were to give me my 'wish'? Well, 2 of the short-list amps for Maggies would be either Bryston.....or Pass.
Another group of persons exists who loves 'd' amps with panels. I have a PSAudio integrated. Runs cool and has plenty of power. Some of the 'd' guys like the BelCanto line or even Spectron.
My 1.6s are turned backwards which is why I suggested some ...adjustments...to your panels before just getting 'more'.
Try this on for size. I'm in woodshop right now and will eventually do something like THIS:
http://www.indiespinzone.com/mag/mag9.html |
Not that it actually matters, Dsper, but the 1.7 book recommends tweeters 'in'.
Also, in the interest of experimentation, after you get used to them, why not just rotate them in place and put the pole piece side to the listener?
That is the current orientation of my 1.6s |
While they are 'new', they will continue to change for a while. I may not be exactly worth it to keep moving them around after first getting them into a nice spot.
Later, you can get more detailed.
As I approached my final setup, I didn't mess with anything for longer and longer between changes until I made a backwards move or 2.
Record keeping may be important here. Dimensions? listening impressions?
I could'a swore I saw the tweeters 'in' recommendation at the Magnepan site when I looked up the 1.7 book...... |
I like the new instructions. I couldn't ignore them since this is what I'd do anyway.
Determine orientation by TEST is best. (nice rhyme!)
You've got 4 choices, right?
Tweeters In / Out
Mylar Front / Back.
I'd wait 100 hours or so. Caps need to settle in and the mylar needs to be exercised. |
Measure from the edge of the speaker directly BACK to the 'front' wall.
Measure from EACH side of the speaker. On my 1.6s, I use the little trim strip as the index.
My speakers measure EXACTLY 30.5" on the inside edge and 34" to the outside edge....both straight back to the front wall.
Speakers are 61" apart, inside edge to inside edge....from the same place I measure to the wall.
A little trig tells me.......just under 11 degrees of toe. The speakers cross well behind my seating position of about 10 or 11 feet. |
Nope,
Never measured anything.
In the case of problem rooms or maybe the last 'nth' of performance, it would be wise to measure. Maybe while installing sound treatments and other room modifications.
I'm dedicated, not committed! (or, perhaps, commitable!)
I've simply tried to make what I have as good as possible by ear. My ears? Questionable. Somebody with more experience and maybe a trick idea or 2 could come in here and slackjaw me with good changes.
Their is a role for 'peer review' in case you miss something obvious. But, I'm done messing around until I get to the panel reframe phase late next year. If I survive woodshop. |
I use a PSAudio GCC series integrated. It uses the same ASP ICE modules but apparently different input circuitry. Both amps have a single balanced input....#1, single ended inputs, an additional output (to another amp or sub) and the same frontpanel AND backpanel arrangement. Built on the same line, I suspect.
That being said, the 500x2 of my GCC250 is more than adequate for my 1.6s. If, as you say, you are listening at lower levels, you will simply NOT need the 3db offered by the kilowatt model. Also, the smaller module in my amp has a 60 second max power time limit while the larger module limits itself to 30 seconds.
The difference between the W4S and the PSAudio would appear to be the gain cell offered only in the PS amps.
I suspect that interchanged into the same system, you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference. |
Have you experimented with SETUP? Panels can require some patients in that department.
Also, flip 'em around. Adjust toe. Adjust front wall spacing.
Keep track of what you try. |
Excellent result, Dsper.
Just a little messing around and a FREE upgrade.
Now, if you're in the mood for some futher furniture moving, try listening to the pole piece side! Again, I prefer tweeters in, but that shouldn't matter to you. Your room. Your ears.
Have fun.
Try it? |
Man, what a can of worms!
To tilt or not to tilt, that is the question.
You're on your own with this one! Some people may even install the spacers on the TOP screws to tilt 'em forward.
I run straight up/dn but will build some adjustment into my frames......with a proprietary design. |
My PERSONAL opinion would be to go to a total reframe in real wood. But that's just me. I would avoid 'bridgework' in the stand and use wood. The MDF of Maggies doesn't accept the vibration from the panel which is where the problem lies.
The Mye stands make the frame more rigid and less 'whippy'. This is good, but IMO using brute force, not materials and engineering.
Just my opin, but I'm in process of designing new frames which will be both light and rigid. No metal beams or whatever. The driver will be 'floated' in the frame yet firmly held. Some mod guys even install strips of Dynamat or whatever on the pole piece and between the frame and driver. |
