Looking to Develop A Short List of Amplifier Candidates For A Pair Of JBL 4367 Speakers


Over a number of years I have owned JBL 4365 and eventually moved on from them. I tried a pair of Martin Longan CLX ART, but my room was not well suited for them. A failed experiment with a lot of lost hours in it. I ended up coming home to JBL and acquiring a pair of 4367.

They are a lovely speaker and are well suited for my 15' by 19' by 8' room. Controlled directivity from the horn augmented by minimal room acoustic panels and a light touch with the Trinov DSP system works for me.

The amplifiers I have been using are a pair of Classe Omega monoblocks. But the reality is they are massive, are way too much power for a pair of 94 db efficient speakers, cannot be moved by me alone, and are just wasted in this application. So they have been sold and are pending pick up when the new owner gets back from vacation.

So I am developing a short list of amplifiers. Going through the whole gamut, tube, solid state, and Class D. On the 4365 I once tried a pair of Audio Mirror Reflections since in my past I was a user of Single Ended Triode amps. But even with "larger" SET power, the woofers on the 4365 were not well controlled at all. Another failed experiment. With the 4365 I had used a PS Audio BHK250 with decent results, a pair of AVM Audio Amp Essential monoblocks with excellent results, and a H20 Audio 250 Signature Class D amp with interesting results. The AVM and Classe have provided the best results so far.

So the question is, are there Class D amplifiers that meet the sound quality requirements these days. I have seen some amps using a Hypex or Purfi module with a tube front end. Also have heard the latest generation Orchard monoblocks are worth looking at. Anyone have any other candidates, or thoughts?

In the past JBL was known to mate well with tube amplification. But I imagine this is going to have to be push/pull. In the past I have owned Dynaco and then Quicksilver before I went to explore the world of SET amplfiers. When I bought the 4365 I had thought they were going to be agood match with my Electraprint amplifier, but I was completely wrong on that one. What power level would I have to reach with tube amplification?

Finally in terms of solid state, the choices are huge. I know McIntosh was often a favored pairing, but I have never been a fan of the brand. I wonder about some of the solid state Conrad Johnson offerings, but I think they may be getting long in the tooth these days. I have thought about BAT. I actually have a First Watt F7 here that is my back up amp and it runs them better than a person would have imagined. The latest generation of AVM is now a hybrid, and ownership by Burmester might be a good thing, I would like to think I could get service in the US for them.

Any thoughts or experiences you want to pass along would be greatly appreciated.

neonknight

You might consider an integrated amp from Rogers High Fidelity. I have similar high sensitivity speakers to those w/ big 15” woofers & horn loaded mids & tweeters (Volti Rivals) & his EHF 200 Mark II drives them superbly in a big room.

The amp is hand made w/ point to point wiring w/ high quality parts & sounds excellent w/ lots of power (100 watts/ side in pure class A!). It’s is physically big & heavy & puts out some heat for sure & pricey but comes w/ a full lifetime warranty!!

I used to to own the 4367. They will play loud no matter what. The sensitivity has little meaning with them. The issue is what is needed to control the woofer, so it is as congruent as it can be with the midrange/tweeter. The woofer is the best part of the speaker, in my opinion. KT88 amps will not work well; I tried. The only amp I found to work was ML 532H. I am sure there are better amps, but ML makes for a good baseline for the 4367s to sound correct. Another 150 watt SS amp I tried was underpowered.  

The woofer is the best part of the speaker, in my opinion. 

I agree! The JBL 2216Nd-1 woofer is phenomenal and it won't compress under high level input power (like four hundred watts). Actively bi-amping the JBL 4367 will bring them to another level.

Mike

Most of the posts on this thread come from those much more experienced than I. However I’ve had a fair amount of exposure to older JBL’s , some small L19, some large,  twin 15’s with a horn. Even though they show a reasonable Db output and sometimes state modest wattage, they LIKE POWER, BIG POWER ! I wish you lived close by as I have Rogue M-180’s Dark and a Hera pre. It would be interesting to mate them up. That being said and reading everyone’s opinion, My 2 cents is tubes 150 wpc or more. The Coda first then the Bryston 4cubed. If it was me i’d love to try  those Atma-Sphere Class D monos mated to my Rogue Hera pre. In regards to that the Hera has a lot of gain, but it has 5 output settings. I’m running Tektons ( go ahead and shoot me 😆 ) , and they can run low power AND hi. So I’ve run a 50 wpc op amp for giggles and it’s great until it clips at 75-80 db. I have JBL 4312’s and 50 wpc Dynaco MK III’s will drive them to 85 db but the SQ is lacking. The First Watt would probably be nice for low level listening and the Pass would be pretty nice. Ask @hilde45 about his JBL’s he’d be spot on. So in closing maybe a pair of Class D’s and a First Watt or Pass to rotate. I live where it’s 100* today and I’m trying to scratch up $6K to call Ralph.  Those Rogue M-180’s draw as much power as my pool and keep my living room warm in the winter. Bill at Rogue Audio paired the ST -100 Dark to the small Megapans , but I’m not sure they are powerful enough, you could call him. Damn I sure can ramble, Cheers , Mike B.