Living With A Class A Tube Amp


I'm ready to replace my venerable Prima Luna Dialogue One amp.  Just as I thought I had my choices sufficiently narrowed down, I came across Roger's EHF-100 integrated amp.  It has the features I'm looking for without any frills, and has sufficient wattage to power my Sonus Faber Sonetto VIII speakers   Checked out their web site and had an informative email conversation with Roger, who confirmed that this would be a good amp for my speaker. s and room.  He provided me with some useful information, but I need some info from Class A tube amp owners generally.

From what I gather Class A amps produce max power at all times, therefore run hotter than a typical amp.  How does this affect amp placement?  My current amp is on a heavy wooden table and in front of a curtained window.  Would the table need to be replaced?  Do I need Nomex curtains?   How does this heat affect tube life?  Any other internal components subject to accelerated aging due to the heat?  Any other thoughts from Class A amp owners would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John Cotner

New Ulm, MN 

jrcotner

@immatthewj FWIW, 'pure class A' is a marketing phrase. As far as engineering goes, a circuit is either class A or its not. None of this 'enriched class A' stuff you often see (such amps are class AB). In your case my guess is class A1.

I thought after I read your postings on the different categories of Class  A that "pure Class A" probably was the manufacturer romanticizing the owner's manual.  Thanks for the info. 

One of the best ways to leverage class A: 10 watts or less of single ended triode with a speaker of 97db or greater sensitivity.  Minimal heat, minimal warmup time, long tube life, no need to bias tubes.

no need to bias tubes.

Don’t you still have to adjust the bias on the one output tube per side that you do have? That is, unless it is self biasing?

You most likely have either ultralinear or pentode 

pentode being a purer circuit without all the feedback as in a Ultralinear circuit.